45,592 views ·
18 replies
46k views
18 replies
which screws for osb+gypsum??
will be installing OSB+gypsum on the interior walls, just wanted to check which screws I should use for this.
is 30mm enough for the gypsum? and which screws should I use for the OSB??
grateful for answers.....
P.s have a screw gun and grateful for tips on where to buy collated screws cheaply
is 30mm enough for the gypsum? and which screws should I use for the OSB??
grateful for answers.....
P.s have a screw gun and grateful for tips on where to buy collated screws cheaply
When you have double board material, you should use 40 mm screws if you're going into the studs behind; otherwise, you only have 5 mm to hold. It has been discussed here on the forum that you can screw into the chipboard/OSB without needing to hit the stud. I work within the timber house industry myself, and a few years ago, we used to screw the drywall into the chipboards/OSB without considering the studs, but after many complaints because the boards began to sag between the studs, we started screwing into them instead. The complaints stopped, so to be on the safe side, screw the drywall into the stud behind; that way, it will be really stable and good.
Perfect...thank you so much...how long do the spånskiveskruv need to be?
You'll probably manage with 30 mm. You were wondering about collated screws, check here http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_Produkt.aspx?id=28100
brilliant!
thank you so much for all the help!
thank you so much for all the help!
have 45reglar lying on the inside....
how should the OSB be mounted? horizontally?
how should the OSB be mounted? horizontally?
With 45 lying down, you can mount the OSB horizontally, but don't forget to place noggins at the joint on the short sides. Alternatively, you can place noggins at c/c 600 between the horizontal ones, so you can mount the OSB vertically, and you also have a stud to screw the drywall into later.
smart
.....how do you usually do it?
have all the possibilities now .....
have all the possibilities now .....
How it is usually done...well, there are probably a lot of different solutions for that. I worked at another house factory once upon a time, where we had a cross-laid framework built roughly as I described above. It was built like this: 195 mm studs, vapor barrier, 45 mm horizontal, 45 mm vertical between horizontal c/c 600 but not in line with the 195, then tongue and groove boards and gypsum. Made very good walls indeed
I'd appreciate it if you could elaborate on this. I'm one of those who isn't careful about gypsum joints landing on underlying studs, as long as the OSB is screwed properly. What was the actual cause of the complaints? And what is meant by them sagging between the studs? I'm honestly curious, as I've always thought it didn't matter where the joint is located. Maybe a bit off-topic but still relevant.Ola78 said:When you have double sheet material, you should use 40 mm screws if you are going to screw into the studs behind; otherwise, you only have 5 mm gripping. It has been discussed here on the forum that you can screw into the chipboard/OSB without having to hit the stud. I work in the wood house industry, and a few years ago, we screwed the plasterboard into the chipboard/OSB without considering the studs, but after numerous complaints due to the boards starting to sag between the studs, we started screwing into them instead. The complaints stopped, so to be on the safe side, screw the plasterboard into the stud behind to make it really sturdy and good.
I myself didn't think it mattered either, but then we found this out and I saw pictures we received from the complaints department. When the long edge joint of the gypsum landed between the studs and the fiberboard moved, apparently the reinforcement in the joint couldn't handle it and the boards started to sag, so now we screw all the gypsum screws into the studs. I guess it's because the boards become more like a thick solid board now or something, but it's a bit of a hassle when you're calculating the fiberboards at work and you want it to align with the gypsum, as you don't want to make general joints. At the same time, we also started to place a metal strip over all the windows to prevent the wallpapers from cracking, as there had been problems with that as well; the complaints decreased significantly after this. I guess that
Forgot to mention it, you don't notice the phenomenon right away; it was apparently something that crept up. Now, I don't know if it might be different with OSB as a substrate, personally I think it's better than particleboard. I've used tongue and groove boards under all the drywall in our house and haven't really thought much about the studs because I thought tongue and groove is so strong. I apologize if I might have alarmed you now bengtsson
, not my intention in that case. I'm just writing how we do it at my job, the bosses decide
Interesting, I have had the same problem in a few joints, thought it was because they were spackled with fiberglass tape and not paper (which I have on all other joints).
How tightly did you screw the OSB? Was it glued as well?
How tightly did you screw the OSB? Was it glued as well?