Building Materials and Construction Technology
kalubah: At another hardware store where the expertise seemed higher, they said it was completely fine but somewhat sensitive if the house shifts. They recommended tile adhesive instead, which I have used now. No problems at all getting the drywall up, and so far the boards are holding (like a rock).
ows: Hello again, thanks for all the answers. The stove will be placed 10 cm from an unprotected wall, as that is what it's approved for. It's that simple... I'll put tiles underneath and set a wallpaper feature wall behind. The stove is an Attityd 100T if anyone is wondering. (PS we're going with a different chimney sweep, have been warned about the municipal chimney sweep)
gadeberg: It may be added that the walls that are to be straightened are a log wall and the other has double raw wood siding.
Wincent: Hello. I have a plastered chimney at home where the plaster has come off in some places. I would like to expose the brick instead. But does it affect the tightness of the chimney? If I remove the plaster and then hire someone to seal it, that should be enough, right?
Hempularn: Tiled up a square when I replaced the kitchen fan. Used old fix and old grout from bags that have been opened for 7-8 years. They've been kept dry and worked perfectly fine.
mangala: Hello! The house we live in was drained in the 70s, and we've had some moisture penetration in the basement walls. The problem is that one of the walls in the basement is also, so to speak, an extension of the retaining wall that also runs along the property line with the neighbor. So you could say that on the other side of our basement wall is the neighbor's land. Trying to show with an attached
Xjoj: The storage is a "friggebod" of 15m2
jensax1: [citat] So there is... :wow: exactly what I had been thinking about! d^_^b The difference is probably that they have a special frame in their construction, which is probably needed if you have 55mm insulation or if you lack wood to screw the board into. But they also have it with 30mm insulation. I will try to find some price information. I can imagine that it hasn't gained much traction because
Ola78: I was a bit tired when I wrote my first post, meant option 2, sorry :blushing: it was a bit carelessly written by me. I insulated the slanted ceiling down to the support beam wall, nailed additional studs on the support beams and insulated between them and also insulation on the floor in the attic crawl space. The thing is, I'm in the process of renovating our house from the 1920s, so I built new
forsta_huset: Thank you Matti, as you say, one should be able to see it on the drawings, I will ask someone who knows that better than me to see how it looks. I had just taken for granted that they didn't build like that nowadays...
Blindnit: Shim underneath with your 95:or and it'll last forever ;) Only plywood, regardless of thickness, is likely to bend over time.
Phiplex: Right now it's around 8 degrees Celsius outside and a bit misty. Two days ago, it was between 10-15 degrees Celsius and I started building a shed with leca blocks and mortar B. It might have been around 4-5 degrees at night, but it doesn't seem like there has been any frost. During the day, it has consistently been over 5 degrees. After two days, the mortar has hardened, but not so much that I
Tyresö: I admit that I get upset when someone mentions the word "constructor," especially when it comes to concrete in construction! I have full respect if a constructor tells me to deliver a "special concrete mix" because:... When they explain why, then I understand, and everyone agrees! But I often encounter constructors who do not understand the difference when air entrainment agents are added to the
Tyresö: [citat] I'm considering taking a chance! Either I build for elephants, or I build for ants. I haven't opened up the interior wall yet, but I expect to have 45 x 145 studs, which means I can fit 3 pieces of 220 x 45 studs in width, which will form the frame around the window bay in the wall. 3 pieces of 220 x 45 studs in width with a span of 2 m will definitely hold up a substantial car. I find it
Torpar Thor: I have knocked down the bricks in my chimney where a crack has developed and now plan to seal it up. Does anyone have tips on materials and possibly advice on the procedure? The crack continues up to the upper floor, but it was quite easy to knock down the bricks so I thought I would continue there once I've sealed part of the lower section.
Nilsson71: Hello, I hope someone knowledgeable can take pity on ignorant me :) I'm going to hire craftsmen to soundproof an interior wall that adjoins my neighbor. The existing wall seems to be concrete without insulation, and the floor seems to be the same with parquet on top (in both apartments). The sounds I want to get rid of are children's screams and the stomping from the child's running, which
gravis: Hello, I am building a conservatory of just over 40 square meters. It has insulated glass all around. The roof will be insulated with 190mm and insulated with foam plastic underneath. I will only have the conservatory heated when it is to be used in early spring and late autumn and possibly sometime in the winter for a party or similar. Now to my question, do you think that Huntonit ceiling
miza1466: Is what my father and I built from, with fittings to hold everything together and to make it easy to disassemble. My father's little tent is probably 12x5 and 5 high somewhere (33-foot motorsailer) and has held up for around 10 years at least. With replacement of tarpaulins as needed, of course.
Ola78: Hi! I started a thread about this a while ago, you can find it here http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggmaterial-byggteknik/155116-angspaerr-runt-murstock-hur-goera-det-raett.html
mhg_3: Yes, it's probably worth the extra cost after all :)
pebj_: [citat] But IF you were to have gaps over 5mm, drywall compound seems to be preferable.
J.B.: I will make sliding doors for the bedroom that should be of the same panel as the ceiling, the question is how to attach them to the MDF boards, gluing is just out of the question because it will turn into a banana, the question is if you can spot glue them with PL400? Has anyone tried so I don't have to reinvent the wheel again. Best regards, Jörgen
injonil: A possible solution would be to apply a bead of silicon where the sill and slab meet. And let the drywall start 1cm above the slab. These are just some ideas, nothing I've tried myself. Of course, there should also be some form of moisture protection between the concrete slab and the sill as Mikael_L writes.
Dallelkpg: Up.. Come on now, carpenters!!