Whole or spliced moldings?

[shadowfire]

Do you always run full-length moldings on the ceiling and baseboards on the floor, or do you sometimes save material and splice two parts together, for example, and use latex caulking over the joint?

 

[Ola78]

I try to use full lengths as much as possible, I think it looks best that way.

 

[Mugmaz]

Also run full lengths as much as possible. Trying to splice where I know a piece of furniture will be.

 

[Farzan]

Baseboards I usually install in one piece. With mouldings, however, I actually find that it can sometimes be easier to make it look nice if you divide those that are long (four meters and up). Such lengths are difficult to handle if you work alone as I usually do. If I divide them, they become easier to handle and fit, and the joint isn't very noticeable if you mitre at 45 degrees and paint afterwards. With factory-painted mouldings, I would definitely avoid it.

 

[byggare henke]

Sometimes you have to set delade.

 

[Wester]

As far as possible whole, no matter how tricky it is to handle them in the house, but sometimes it doesn't work because there aren't such long moldings, and then I obviously splice where it's likely that there will be a piece of furniture.

 

[Stefan Bengtsson]

Those of you who, as far as possible, use whole lists: Is it on principle, because it's supposed to be that way, or is there any advantage to it compared to splitting (and filling/painting/sealing so that the joint becomes invisible)?

 

[Ola78]

Baseboards can probably be divided, it's more out of habit that it's not done, the joint can be hidden behind future furniture as someone wrote. However, I find it difficult to cut ceiling moldings unless absolutely necessary, I think it's hard to get it really right despite latex caulk and paint, it always seems noticeable where the joint is, at least I think so. It's possible that I may have done it wrong:blushing:

 

[Totem]

Baseboards in the longest pieces possible. I usually splice crown moldings if needed. Miter cuts and latex caulk are the model. Then painted the same color as the ceiling.
When it comes to other moldings like caulk strips, casings, and the like, unspliced is what I prefer.

 

[Milkshaken]

Preferably seamless in the ceiling... yes, of course in the floor too, but in the floor, it's easier to "mask the seam"...

A tip for those who have difficulty succeeding with latex/acrylic mass...
Open up the seam a little more by cutting away the sharp edges where the moldings meet... If you can apply more acrylic/latex, it usually "spreads out" a bit more... It's possible to achieve an invisible seam with this method...
You do it the same way as when you sand a joint in drywall...

 

[Johan Gunverth]

Molding is no problem to splice if you make an angled cut (on the flat) at the joint and then glue it together during installation. Spackling and painting provide an invisible and crack-free joint.

 

[shadowfire]

Moldings are no problem at all to splice if you bevel (on the flat) the joint and then glue it together during installation. Spackling and painting provide an invisible and crack-free joint.

I did some calculations on that, and if you take 70-baseboard in unpainted pine from some cheap hardware store, it still costs just under 20 SEK/metre... about 16-18 SEK/lpm. I find moldings insanely expensive overall, especially if you renovate a lot/a whole house.

I started calculating, and it's a couple of hundred SEK per window with extensions, casings, etc., a few hundred SEK per door casing, and then it adds up per room. If you have smaller rooms (like I do), there's going to be a ton of waste with 4-meter moldings. Several rooms are around 3x3m, and then there's 1-meter waste at both the floor & ceiling, i.e., 8 meters of waste just for baseboard and ceiling moldings in just one room, 140-150 SEK to burn. Small potatoes in one room, but in the whole house, it adds up to a couple of thousand SEK in "waste."

 

[Ola78]

Calculated that a bit, and if you take 70-baseboard in untreated pine from some cheap hardware store, they still cost just under 20kr/meter... about 16-18 kr/lpm. I find moldings insanely expensive overall, especially if you're renovating a lot/a whole house.

I started calculating and it's a couple of hundred kronor per window with casing, trim, etc., a few hundred kronor per door trim and then it adds up for each room. If you have smaller rooms (like I do), there's a lot of waste with 4-meter trim. Several rooms are about 3x3m, resulting in 1-meter waste at both floor & ceiling, i.e., 8 meters wasted just on baseboard and ceiling trim in just one room, 140-150 skr to burn. Small potatoes in one room, but in a whole house, it becomes a couple of thousand kronor in "waste."

Many more well-stocked lumber yards often have different lengths, so even if they are a bit more expensive/m, it might overall be cheaper because you get less waste.

 

[Milkshaken]

Actually, it's a bit strange that they aren't available in longer lengths in more places.... Many moldings I've seen that have been finger-jointed.... Can basically be made as long as you want then.....