The bottom image is basically identical to how our living room looks and how we plan to transition... Interesting that it is apparently okay to place a steel beam on wooden posts. Looks like a nice job. Did you also insert the wooden post into the facade wall and what is it standing on, the concrete slab or the furring?
Thanks for the example!
Thanks for the example!
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The beams are cut following the girder. However, there is an additional few millimeters in height. The steel girder is manufactured according to the dimensions of the beams. Note, however, that I had almost 100 mm left of the beam after making the notch, which is why I didn't need to prop the floor joist on the other side of the wall. The columns are placed on the concrete beam in the crawl space.
Since the turn of the year, the Eurocode applies, and I'm not completely familiar with it yet. EN 1993 deals with steel structures and EN 1995 deals with wood structures. There are several reasons not to mix materials. As a designer, one must consider the properties of materials, but as long as you keep this in mind, there are no problems.
In cases of moisture and temperature differences, for example, different materials can move differently relative to each other, but this is hardly something you need to worry about in this case, as the spans are so small. Peter's solution seemed fine. Place the beam on top of the column but weld on a plate so you can screw into the side.
In cases of moisture and temperature differences, for example, different materials can move differently relative to each other, but this is hardly something you need to worry about in this case, as the spans are so small. Peter's solution seemed fine. Place the beam on top of the column but weld on a plate so you can screw into the side.
That the steel beam would be more difficult to install was an unusually silly argument from your engineer. It's a job you do ONCE, the alternative is to live with glulam beams for the rest of your life.
Moreover, such a short and slender beam is not particularly heavy. We installed an 8 m HEB 280 with four men. I recall it weighed about 800 kg.
Moreover, such a short and slender beam is not particularly heavy. We installed an 8 m HEB 280 with four men. I recall it weighed about 800 kg.
We have now received the final construction drawings from the architect/engineer and have a couple of questions in connection with them.
1) The drawings are based on HEA 180 beam which is specified as the recommended size. According to the calculations, it states that HEA 160 is also okay. Is it allowed to use the 160 beam even though the drawings are based on HEA 180 (all else being equal, i.e., the same dimension on the columns that the beam will rest on)? Furthermore, isn't it also the case that drawings usually have a large margin and therefore recommend stronger material?
2) The drawings indicate that the beam should be attached upwards to the floor structure with angle irons. That is, the angle irons are fastened with anchor nails to the wooden beam and riveted/nailed to the iron beam. Was wondering if it's not easier to drill holes in the iron beam and fasten the angle iron with screws and nuts?
3) Since I have taken on the task of procuring materials (buying the iron beam from montano.se which seems good), does anyone have suggestions on where to buy the angle irons that secure the iron beam and what dimensions/qualities these should be in?
Many thanks for your opinions!
Andreas
1) The drawings are based on HEA 180 beam which is specified as the recommended size. According to the calculations, it states that HEA 160 is also okay. Is it allowed to use the 160 beam even though the drawings are based on HEA 180 (all else being equal, i.e., the same dimension on the columns that the beam will rest on)? Furthermore, isn't it also the case that drawings usually have a large margin and therefore recommend stronger material?
2) The drawings indicate that the beam should be attached upwards to the floor structure with angle irons. That is, the angle irons are fastened with anchor nails to the wooden beam and riveted/nailed to the iron beam. Was wondering if it's not easier to drill holes in the iron beam and fasten the angle iron with screws and nuts?
3) Since I have taken on the task of procuring materials (buying the iron beam from montano.se which seems good), does anyone have suggestions on where to buy the angle irons that secure the iron beam and what dimensions/qualities these should be in?
Many thanks for your opinions!
Andreas