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28 replies
9k views
28 replies
Regla in aerated concrete
I'll get back with results in a year on how it went with karm + träreglar + gypsum.
The room is 220 and the bed is 218, so I feel like I didn't quite have space for gypsum on the entire wall, and then there were water pipes internally in a corner as well.
The room is 220 and the bed is 218, so I feel like I didn't quite have space for gypsum on the entire wall, and then there were water pipes internally in a corner as well.
The door frame is already gone, there's just an open entrance, it's not in the middle of any wall but all the way against a wall.
1. So is it difficult to make the new wall align with the old one without getting cracks??
2. Why are metal studs better than wood, they seem to be very solid when screwed in anyway??
3. What type of screws are used to fasten drywall to metal studs??
4. How do you most easily attach metal studs to aerated concrete??
1. So is it difficult to make the new wall align with the old one without getting cracks??
2. Why are metal studs better than wood, they seem to be very solid when screwed in anyway??
3. What type of screws are used to fasten drywall to metal studs??
4. How do you most easily attach metal studs to aerated concrete??
So metal studs, then drywall on top.
1. Should I tape the seam between the drywall and the old wall, and spackle as usual??
2. Where can I find Essve's light concrete screws, does coop-bygg, byggmax, clasohlson and k-rauta have them open now..???
1. Should I tape the seam between the drywall and the old wall, and spackle as usual??
2. Where can I find Essve's light concrete screws, does coop-bygg, byggmax, clasohlson and k-rauta have them open now..???
Isn't there anything at clasohlson that should work for attaching steel studs to lightweight concrete? Beijer only sells in bulk, I only need a maximum of 30.
Should I tape the joint between the drywall and the old wall, and fill as usual??
Should I tape the joint between the drywall and the old wall, and fill as usual??
Long, rough wood screw with good pitch actually works. There won't be any forces trying to pull the screw out. Just make sure to screw with a bit of sensitivity, stop "in time" so you don't pull it out.
(For example, essve has a screw for leca/light concrete that resembles the screw belonging to a screw plug, but that would be overkill for your studs
)
(For example, essve has a screw for leca/light concrete that resembles the screw belonging to a screw plug, but that would be overkill for your studs
Or use regular plastic plugs (e.g. red?) and wood screws that go through them properly, but drill with a drill bit that's 1 mm too small. As mentioned, you'll have small forces that want to pull the screw out.
I have now used metal studs from Byggmax and plug+screw packages that they also have for 8 SEK for 4 pieces. The plugs are about the same size as regular brown ones and the screws are about 6-8cm long.
I first screwed into a small piece of wood and then into the metal stud and lightweight concrete. Seems to be holding up well so far.
I have a few questions:
1. Do you have to attach the drywall to studs at the bottom by the floor as well, or is it enough with the top and sides? The panel is 60cm wide and 210cm high.
2. Can I attach a wooden board behind the drywall, meaning I don't attach it to any stud but directly to the drywall, screwing from the front side of the drywall? This is to easily hang something light on the wall later.
3. Does it get better or worse if you tape between the joints and plaster more than once?
Thanks
I first screwed into a small piece of wood and then into the metal stud and lightweight concrete. Seems to be holding up well so far.
I have a few questions:
1. Do you have to attach the drywall to studs at the bottom by the floor as well, or is it enough with the top and sides? The panel is 60cm wide and 210cm high.
2. Can I attach a wooden board behind the drywall, meaning I don't attach it to any stud but directly to the drywall, screwing from the front side of the drywall? This is to easily hang something light on the wall later.
3. Does it get better or worse if you tape between the joints and plaster more than once?
Thanks
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