Good evening, the plumber did not deign to answer the phone, leading to questions here.
In a small WC/shower on the ground floor, slab on grade, a wall-hung toilet with the cistern in the room is to be installed.
(Why? another discussion, easy to clean, but no hidden water that can leak... that's my opinion, anyway, another discussion...)
The drain thus comes up in the middle of the wall, so it needs to be thicker than a normal partition wall.
1. I initially thought of a wall of 45x120 but read in some thread here that it was easier/better with 45x145 since the pipe's outer dimension in the sleeve itself is 125mm...
Confirmation/another suggestion?
2. According to the installation instructions for IFÖ Sign 6893 and Gustavsberg Nautic 5520, it is a threaded rod with a certain measurement out from the finished wall that should be used.
IFÖ has a fixture for this, but it is a whole 166mm deep, but the other according to standard, threaded rod, and cc 230 on the same.
This feels like it is for a toilet with a built-in cistern.
Gustavsberg has a similar fixture for the purpose, which is 140mm deep and should therefore suit the purpose/wall.
But do you really need such a fixture? Gustavsberg indicates that it should be used for installation in weak walls... but a wall that accommodates a 110mm drain I find hard to see as "weak"...
3. Can't you cross brace between two studs, partly for fixing and partly for support at the bottom of the toilet?
4. If you cross brace for fixing, or set posts at cc 230, what then should you use to mount the toilet bowl with, screws or should you use a threaded rod?
Normally (at least according to the installation instructions) there is some form of cover for the threaded rod, + you get nuts and washers...
5. How to attach a threaded rod in a good way to a wooden stud?
http://www.gustavsberg.se/files/Nautic.WC.Bidet.pdf Installation instructions for the Gustavsberg toilet...
http://www.ifo.se/Download.aspx?url=/public/mb_files/14/32691/73-11.pdf Installation instructions for the IFÖ toilet...
http://www.ifo.se/?id=118&ParentNodeID=&ProductGroupID=9669&ProductID=30716 IFÖ's fixture
http://www.gustavsberg.se/wc_28663.asp Gustavsberg's fixture...
What do you think?
In a small WC/shower on the ground floor, slab on grade, a wall-hung toilet with the cistern in the room is to be installed.
(Why? another discussion, easy to clean, but no hidden water that can leak... that's my opinion, anyway, another discussion...)
The drain thus comes up in the middle of the wall, so it needs to be thicker than a normal partition wall.
1. I initially thought of a wall of 45x120 but read in some thread here that it was easier/better with 45x145 since the pipe's outer dimension in the sleeve itself is 125mm...
Confirmation/another suggestion?
2. According to the installation instructions for IFÖ Sign 6893 and Gustavsberg Nautic 5520, it is a threaded rod with a certain measurement out from the finished wall that should be used.
IFÖ has a fixture for this, but it is a whole 166mm deep, but the other according to standard, threaded rod, and cc 230 on the same.
This feels like it is for a toilet with a built-in cistern.
Gustavsberg has a similar fixture for the purpose, which is 140mm deep and should therefore suit the purpose/wall.
But do you really need such a fixture? Gustavsberg indicates that it should be used for installation in weak walls... but a wall that accommodates a 110mm drain I find hard to see as "weak"...
3. Can't you cross brace between two studs, partly for fixing and partly for support at the bottom of the toilet?
4. If you cross brace for fixing, or set posts at cc 230, what then should you use to mount the toilet bowl with, screws or should you use a threaded rod?
Normally (at least according to the installation instructions) there is some form of cover for the threaded rod, + you get nuts and washers...
5. How to attach a threaded rod in a good way to a wooden stud?
http://www.gustavsberg.se/files/Nautic.WC.Bidet.pdf Installation instructions for the Gustavsberg toilet...
http://www.ifo.se/Download.aspx?url=/public/mb_files/14/32691/73-11.pdf Installation instructions for the IFÖ toilet...
http://www.ifo.se/?id=118&ParentNodeID=&ProductGroupID=9669&ProductID=30716 IFÖ's fixture
http://www.gustavsberg.se/wc_28663.asp Gustavsberg's fixture...
What do you think?
Found a fixture from Svedbergs... and in the picture on the last page, it says that 120mm of free space should be enough, so I assume the fixture is 120mm deep, and the material in the fixture is equal to or less than 10mm...
http://www.svedbergs.se/components/com_virtuemart/shop_documents/H900904010-M2.pdf
But the big question, is it such a fixture that is necessary?
http://www.svedbergs.se/components/com_virtuemart/shop_documents/H900904010-M2.pdf
But the big question, is it such a fixture that is necessary?
the plaster wall, wood wall is a glen wall no matter how thick it is.
concrete, then heck, you can get an anchor that definitely holds.
I think you should go for the fixture.
concrete, then heck, you can get an anchor that definitely holds.
I think you should go for the fixture.
Gustavsbergs wall-mounted is secured with 12 mm screw studs (French wood screw on one end and threaded rod on the other). The two I bought came with these screw studs. If the wall is open behind, you can simply add studs where the screw studs will be screwed in. I've used two glued-together 95-studs on the wrong side if you understand (then you have 95 mm to aim for in width and can screw 90 mm into wood), just make sure to get the wall completely rigid without wobble or shake (studs with noggings and then boards) and it works perfectly with the screw studs right into the studs. No fixture is needed.
Yep thanks, just found that on an assembly instruction... on page 35.
http://www.ido.se/www/swe/idowwwswe...ILE/IDO_WC_Trevi_montering_serviceanv2010.pdf
Comments: yes, since the wall will be built up to at least 45x120, it should be sufficient in terms of stiffness.
And, how much can you wobble? I mean, the drain comes out of the wall at a certain point, so the toilet should be centered against it, right? So why do you need that wobble margin?
http://www.ido.se/www/swe/idowwwswe...ILE/IDO_WC_Trevi_montering_serviceanv2010.pdf
Comments: yes, since the wall will be built up to at least 45x120, it should be sufficient in terms of stiffness.
And, how much can you wobble? I mean, the drain comes out of the wall at a certain point, so the toilet should be centered against it, right? So why do you need that wobble margin?
What I mean is that the wall you attach to must be solid, i.e., fixed in the floor and ceiling, not too large cc distance on the studs, maybe using noggins, and if you then put two layers of panels on it, it usually becomes very solid. Of course, you first need to measure carefully where the drain comes out in the wall (which determines the toilet's placement in height and sideways). If you have positioned the pipe correctly, you just need to measure where to place your studs to the right and left of the pipe so that you hit with the drafting pins. When I set these two studs, I joined two together and placed them "the wrong way," then I had a width of 95 mm to screw into instead of 45 mm (as it becomes if you stud the usual way).
The fixture stands on the floor and does not burden the wall vertically. 120 mm studs may suffice, but the thicker the wall, the less torque on the wall, resulting in a more stable installation. It also depends on whether the toilet is intended to be installed near a corner or in the middle of a long straight wall. The former helps to stabilize the installation.
