Building Materials and Construction Technology
jnel: Hello, I'm considering taking on a really old crumbling "böle" (as it's called in Skåne). An old farm from the late 1800s that has seen better days. Today I'm thinking about opening up to the roof ridge on the ground floor to get some space and ceiling height, something that's really lacking today. (Maybe 1.9m). In other words, I want to remove the middle floor. The problem is that I will then
Sparkz: Where I used to live, there was a loft bed built in roughly the same way. That was five years ago, so I'll try to estimate some measurements from memory. The front edge was a plank, 22-25mm, but around 300 high. This created a small edge above the mattress so you wouldn't fall out. Otherwise, the same with a 45x45 and slatted base. It felt quite stiff, no give at all as far as I remember. The 45
Arne999: Posted this question in another category but got no answer so I'm trying here I'm going to build a conservatory at the cottage and have surfed around a bit and thought of building according to "skånskabyggvaror" conservatory The support beam for the rear roof needs to be according to them 42 x 225 The problem is that I'm short on height... Over the patio door there's an absolute MAX of 20cm up
OlaF: Hello, I am planning to build a simple reinforcement of a bank on a garden pond and need some form of plastic sheet piling. Aqvissponten or Joraplankan are names I have found but no common retailer. I have contacted manufacturers of other plastic sheet piles without a response. So, where can you buy something like this? /Ola
para: How are your heating plates attached? I laid floor gypsum in the hallway 15 sqm yesterday. I also have waterborne in plates underneath. My plates are just lightly stapled to the lattice underneath, so gluing the gypsum there seems pointless. I just screwed it in. Managed to avoid hitting the hose, but it's a bit nerve-wracking to screw. Carefully draw out where the hose goes beforehand.
Jan-Å: I haven't done anything similar directly, but I don't think you'll have any problems by fixing the floor first. Replacing the lower beams means jacking up the house while replacing the bad parts, which a new wooden floor in the attic should withstand.
pbengtsson: For a small fee, the lumberyard will usually cut the post to the exact dimensions you want.
jordraketen: Yes, maybe. Not something I thought about, our friends the magnets. Hmmm..
SBH: Yes, mortar c. a bit more lively than the other types. Plus, it's forgiving to remove if it dries in the wrong place.
sege_: I have just relocated an end wall and need to extend my paneled ceiling ~1.5 meters, but I don't want a straight seam where the old wall was. Any tips on how to make it look nice? The ceiling is lacquered and should preferably stay that way. If it were painted white, one could have puttyed the seam but... I also have a few planks that need to be replaced as a stove is being moved and that hole
turmenator: hehe...it will actually be only 80m3 4*10 also about 2 meters high, that small piece 2x2 meters is not supposed to be firewood. But it will probably be tough anyway =)
mekkarn: I have both plastered in my basement and with plaster mix B. There were no problems. But now I wonder if I did it right? I primed with the same plaster that I then used, but it was looser when I primed. When I first primed, the plaster adhered and dried much faster. I've since heard that you should prime with a different type of plaster? And sometimes I applied the plaster in thicker layers than
SBH: depends on how the steps look. and how much the rebar can work together with the concrete. cable ties aren't the best but they suffice for hobby casting. tying is just for holding rebar in place on smaller castings. larger castings such as walls and columns must withstand a completely different handling.
steppen7: I have now received some more info, apparently it looks like this: Older wall: interior gypsum, 240mm studs/insulation, 6mm exterior gypsum, nail batten, panel Our wall: interior gypsum, 220mm studs/insulation, 30mm climate board, weather protection, nail batten, panel Newest wall: 220mm studs with 30mm climate board strips and 250mm insulation in between, weather protection, double nail batten,
raveper: Google.. You place a piece of regel horizontally inside the wall between two reglar, which you then screw the cabinet into.
savio: [citat] Thanks for the tip, it wasn't more difficult than that. I kicked barefoot and got some grip. 3 quick kicks and now it's spot on :P
Lane: tried to draw in text, but it doesn't work in the forum, but I'm new and gave it a try, so here it is: imagine that I are walls outer wall room I toilet I room I toilet I room I toilet I thought solution roomL toilet I room I toilet I room I toilet I
Mats: K-rauta and Fresks have DW demolition (at least the last time I checked). It was apparently a small storage that became dinner for a DW here.
nossodo: Okay, I'll see how I do, it's quite dry now and I have no insulation in the walls and such. Maybe I'll get the walls finished, it would only take an extra week at most.
zsimpey: olfan OL is the best. have never seen it used in Sweden though? [bild]
BigGitt: [citat] I would leave it alone :D p.s. all threads usually go off track ...
