Hello,
I have a wall with a "door" that I would like to close up.
The wall is about 7cm in aerated concrete with rebar.
Is it just a matter of fastening studs around inside the entrance and then attaching boards to it??
What kind of screws should I use to fasten the studs, I've used 8x80 nail plugs before, but I think the wall is too thin for that, or what would you use??
Grateful for all answers
I have a wall with a "door" that I would like to close up.
The wall is about 7cm in aerated concrete with rebar.
Is it just a matter of fastening studs around inside the entrance and then attaching boards to it??
What kind of screws should I use to fasten the studs, I've used 8x80 nail plugs before, but I think the wall is too thin for that, or what would you use??
Grateful for all answers
I would use the lightweight concrete screws that Essve and others have. No plug, holds like a rock. However, I am hesitant to mix wood and stone in this way. It will be difficult to get the surface layer right without it cracking at the seam. Better to build up with suitable stone instead, leca might be available in the right dimension.
The wall is about 7cm, wood panel 12mm + plasterboard 13m = 2.5cm.
And you probably need to do it on both sides, so the rule can only be 2cm!!
One side of the wall faces the hallway, and there I want it solid and stable, hence wood + plasterboard.
The other side will probably be covered by a garderob.
And you probably need to do it on both sides, so the rule can only be 2cm!!
One side of the wall faces the hallway, and there I want it solid and stable, hence wood + plasterboard.
The other side will probably be covered by a garderob.
As MathiasS writes above, when enclosing an opening in lightweight concrete with wooden studs, it's important to note that these will move "out of sync" with the lightweight concrete, so it's likely that you will get cracks where the opening was, which will vary with the seasons. If you plan to put up wallpaper, it probably won't show through as it absorbs some movement, but if you intend to paint, you must reinforce the surface before painting. There's still a risk it'll crack.
You can reduce movements with steel studs, but as the wall is quite thin, it might be difficult to fit. Of course, you could close the wall with lightweight concrete blocks, which I would recommend to make the opening completely invisible in the future.
You can reduce movements with steel studs, but as the wall is quite thin, it might be difficult to fit. Of course, you could close the wall with lightweight concrete blocks, which I would recommend to make the opening completely invisible in the future.
Can you use clip nails for metal studs, for the lightweight concrete wall??
http://beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_ProduktListingFlera.aspx?id=9882
http://www.byggmax.com/se-sv/Prod/PID-20841.aspx
http://beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_ProduktListingFlera.aspx?id=9882
http://www.byggmax.com/se-sv/Prod/PID-20841.aspx
I blocked up a door with wooden studs and chips in a lightweight concrete wall, and it cracked at all the joints after a while, so don't make that mistake as others have already written.
In my new apartment, I opened up a blocked door, and they had used wooden studs screwed directly into the frame and left it in place, then put plasterboard and strips on, and there hadn't been any cracks as far as I could see. Removing a frame in such a thin wall can be a bit of a problem as it was probably put there before the wall itself was made, and it might be nailed with the heads facing the "wrong" way, so there might be some fixing to do with filler or similar if you just pry it out. If you're going to remove the frame, it helps to saw it into smaller parts, and a reciprocating saw with a metal blade can easily handle the nails without affecting the wall.
I used the same method when I blocked up the other door to the bedroom, and simply moved the wooden studs, screwed them in place, and then added single plasterboard and strips on top. Hoping it will hold without cracks this time. Otherwise, you can glue plasterboard over the whole wall if you have space for it so it shouldn't crack. (Overlap to ensure the joints don't end up in the same place as the door was.)
In my new apartment, I opened up a blocked door, and they had used wooden studs screwed directly into the frame and left it in place, then put plasterboard and strips on, and there hadn't been any cracks as far as I could see. Removing a frame in such a thin wall can be a bit of a problem as it was probably put there before the wall itself was made, and it might be nailed with the heads facing the "wrong" way, so there might be some fixing to do with filler or similar if you just pry it out. If you're going to remove the frame, it helps to saw it into smaller parts, and a reciprocating saw with a metal blade can easily handle the nails without affecting the wall.
I used the same method when I blocked up the other door to the bedroom, and simply moved the wooden studs, screwed them in place, and then added single plasterboard and strips on top. Hoping it will hold without cracks this time. Otherwise, you can glue plasterboard over the whole wall if you have space for it so it shouldn't crack. (Overlap to ensure the joints don't end up in the same place as the door was.)
About 16 years ago, I removed a door in a load-bearing 150 mm lightweight concrete wall. Removed the entire frame. Installed 45*45 studs fixed with screws and plugs and gypsum and strips. Then wallpaper in both rooms and in this case, nothing is visible.Edvuld said:
It feels like dead gypsum is better in this case than chipboard!
/Peter