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40 replies
4k views
40 replies
Equivalent anchor compound in drywall
It is not possible to move them.F fribygg said:
This happened after a repaint and a bit of misunderstanding with the painter.
In other words, the other two mounting points are already where they should be.
It probably takes black magic to make that stick.
My first question is whether it's really drywall you're attaching to. It doesn't look like drywall in the picture with the hole. It looks wood-colored yellow, not white.
Why can't the attachment be moved a few centimeters?
Such a thick screw will cause a plug to spin in drywall - it won't work.
My first question is whether it's really drywall you're attaching to. It doesn't look like drywall in the picture with the hole. It looks wood-colored yellow, not white.
Why can't the attachment be moved a few centimeters?
Such a thick screw will cause a plug to spin in drywall - it won't work.
Yes, it is, but then black magic is needed instead to get that kortling there if you don't want to tear down the new nice wall.
I think it's difficult to get a good result without screwing into studs or kortlingar.
I think it's difficult to get a good result without screwing into studs or kortlingar.
Unfortunately, that misunderstanding with the painter results in some extra work needing to be done.
You can't attach that mount to a drywall.
Even if you manage to find a plug that holds reasonably well, making you satisfied now, the wall will soon break around the mount.
If you can't move the mount to a stud, you will have to move a stud/blocking to the mount.
These are the only two options that will hold in the long run.
If the railing can't be adjusted, in other words, you need to open up the wall and install a blocking/stud that is attached to the other studs.
Since the wall is newly painted, it obviously feels quite disappointing.
At the same time, it's an opportunity to achieve a perfect end result, as you'll have no problem getting the exact right color when repainting afterwards.
An alternative might be to open the wall from the other side depending on the room that's there and if it is a smaller intervention than opening the wall we see in the picture.
You can't attach that mount to a drywall.
Even if you manage to find a plug that holds reasonably well, making you satisfied now, the wall will soon break around the mount.
If you can't move the mount to a stud, you will have to move a stud/blocking to the mount.
These are the only two options that will hold in the long run.
If the railing can't be adjusted, in other words, you need to open up the wall and install a blocking/stud that is attached to the other studs.
Since the wall is newly painted, it obviously feels quite disappointing.
At the same time, it's an opportunity to achieve a perfect end result, as you'll have no problem getting the exact right color when repainting afterwards.
An alternative might be to open the wall from the other side depending on the room that's there and if it is a smaller intervention than opening the wall we see in the picture.
Moderator
· Stockholm
· 57 785 posts
Agree that plugs in gypsum will not hold. Possibly if the other two anchor points mentioned are in studs, so that this 3rd anchor point doesn't actually carry any weight. More should be there for appearance's sake.
Thank you for all the responses! I really appreciate the help.
I realized that I forgot an important detail: The railing has actually been stable for over 10 years! It's only now, after the painter removed the old plug, that we have problems with this particular fastening point. The others are fine.
With that in mind, perhaps we can find a solution where it's okay if this point is a bit weaker, since the others are secure. I understand that a kortling is the safest solution in the long run, but since it has worked before, it seems worth exploring other options first. I'll think about it.
(ps: we can't open the wall from the other side, as it's our kitchen on the other side)
I realized that I forgot an important detail: The railing has actually been stable for over 10 years! It's only now, after the painter removed the old plug, that we have problems with this particular fastening point. The others are fine.
With that in mind, perhaps we can find a solution where it's okay if this point is a bit weaker, since the others are secure. I understand that a kortling is the safest solution in the long run, but since it has worked before, it seems worth exploring other options first. I'll think about it.
(ps: we can't open the wall from the other side, as it's our kitchen on the other side)
Moderator
· Stockholm
· 57 785 posts
But the other mounts, are they really just in plaster? It's not like you've managed to hit studs there?
If it's possible to change the handrail holder to another one, perhaps something like this might work. It has worked at my home. Now my kids don't run as much on the stairs and pull on the handrail. But it has still stayed in place for five years.
https://www.bygghemma.se/inredning-...BwE&gbraid=0AAAAAD8-GQnhdKdmjkmKtBivk1VOWrORS
https://www.bygghemma.se/inredning-...BwE&gbraid=0AAAAAD8-GQnhdKdmjkmKtBivk1VOWrORS
No, I wouldn't even recommend it in that case. When I moved in, there was a staircase railing mounted similarly with molly plugs in particleboard.H hempularen said:
That is, much better conditions overall.
But even though it was only "for appearance's sake" in the middle and got quite limited load, over the years, it had been rocked back and forth so many times that the particleboard was eaten away around the plug.
It will happen *quickly* with a gypsum board.
That is, it won't take long before it starts to dust and loosen around the attachment and look really ugly, even though the railing won't fall down.
Tips from the coach. I would have turned down the inside of the handle mount to M6 and then put an M6 Molly plug in the drywall. If the other 2 mounts are already stable and the current hole is not too large for the Molly.
It might be that the other points are in studs. I will investigate when I get home.


