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jishi: I have an old house with 7" standing timber plastered on the outside (about 20-30mm?). I am now going to build a balcony for access to a patio (two-story), where I will attach a 170x45 pressure-treated beam to the wall. The thing is that in the near future, the house will also be replastered, so I'm debating the best way to attach this beam. Should it be attached on top of the plaster, or should
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sturnus: Are you sure it's plaster? I once came across a rosette made of... lead. Seriously. Heavy as hell. But this one looked suspicious right away because of the very thin flower petals that couldn't be made of plaster. It turned out it was screwed to the ceiling. You should support the rosette from below, then use a guitar string (with a braid) to cut it off.
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Relik: Now it was fixation using plugs and screws. Got the tip to glue it from another side as well, but it felt best with screws. I can report that it went smoothly to use the impact drill through tiles and concrete without any major impact on the tiles.
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cederbusch
cederbusch: I have demolished more now and am starting to understand how the house is built. The load is distributed at three points on the gable walls and in the middle of the house. Partly on the chimney, so that’s good. But on the other side, there is no support. I guess there was a wall there once upon a time. It had noticeably sunk, but now I've lifted everything. However, I still don’t quite
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cederbusch
cederbusch: [citat] I've made another thread about it but am not getting any responses. It seems like it works best to ask many questions that can only be answered with YES or NO :) I am going to replace a much too weak support arm (or whatever you might call it in this construction) that has been in place since '57. So the house is holding together, but it had sunken down. So anything other than 30 mm will
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Andreas Wistrand: [citat] The difference is more than 3mm. It's 12mm on one door and 13mm on the other. I haven't found oak moldings that can handle 20mm height :-/.
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z_bumbi: You get a more uneven appearance with unplaned. If you're planning to burn a lot and then brush off the soot, it matters less. The simplest way is to test a few different pieces and degrees of burning. From the little I’ve tested, it's not entirely easy to reach the right level. Have a spray bottle with water (for embers on the boards), a bucket of water, and preferably something else to
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Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] Yes, it will be good!
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Peobjörn: [citat] Brilliant! I would never have figured out going through two smaller triangles. In other words, the total length of both your blue and green markings is 1.828 m. Surprisingly to me, the length is almost doubled with just one meter depth, interesting. Well then, time to get out the saw. Thanks!
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Bosse#3617: Thinking of sprucing up our entrance. The grout is concrete/mortar. Planning to repair and fill the joints to a flat surface before painting. What should I use to fix it? Bosse
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SnickarCissi: I fixed it by screwing in some screws that I could then attach straps to so that I could tension the back piece when I glued it together with pl400. Now it's solid, just need to paint it and then it's done.
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Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] Yes, in the long term, your problem will be recurring if you don't do something about it. You need an air gap between the timber frame and the panel so that air can circulate behind the panel.
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jawen: [citat] The elements' brackets are NOT attached to the Tretex but to the wall behind. Usually a wooden wall, although it could also be plaster. Not sure how accessible it is or if you need to remove the element to realign the brackets. Is the bracket attached only with a lag bolt with a 13 or 17 mm head?
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Pär Nordqvist: In the large room at home, there is also stretched paper on the ceiling and I have taken part of it down. Directly underneath, there is an additional layer of paper, it seems, similar to the outer layer, but thinner and in the same white shade. Was that how it was done when they installed stretched paper in the past? The entire 34 sqm room consisted of paper. Walls of Tretex with wallpaper,
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Myckling: I have with reasonably good results bought marble crush (gravel) at the flower shop. I used a mortar to crush it into a powder, which I then mixed with epoxy glue and filled the crack with.
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Genomklok: Measure out a test area where you can experiment with distance. It's good if you can reach everywhere without too much effort. We have beds (not in greenhouses) that are about a meter wide, which works well when accessible from both sides. A path needs to be at least 40-50 cm wide to fit reasonably, especially if there are "walls" on the sides of the path. If you’re growing directly on the
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cederbusch
cederbusch: No idea what this roof structure is called, but it doesn't have traditional trusses; instead, the roof is supported by the outer walls and three longitudinal rafters (70 x 130mm) that are relieved by the gable walls and in the middle by both the chimney and something that can best be described as a plank. I guess there was once a wall under the "plank," because it sagged down several centimeters.
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ajn82: Of course, one provides figures in their quote on excellent discounts at already inexpensive chains, in the same size as the "discounts" given to the customer on the list price at Ahlsell. Whether the discounts are unrealistic doesn't matter, since there was never any intention to shop anywhere other than at Ahlsell.
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sefeldt: [citat] a bit late reply, but if someone else later wants an answer to the question, if you have the small pieces left or another marble piece, you can grind it down to "flour" and mix it with clear epoxy and then fill the damage with it. then it's just an hour of sanding and polishing. :)
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Kaskelot: Update. I have now used the roller blind every day for over six months and it still holds. Attaching picture.
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tomte2025: The measurement itself seems quite easy with a staircase gauge at hand. Ok. On the plus side, it seems like on one hand you only need half as many steps as I thought, possibly with the exception of the angled steps. The downside is that it definitely doesn't take a maximum of 2 days to install them after delivery as Trappbutiken describes. And Lundbergs apparently wasn't so cheap then, rather
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Testarn: Nice! Fun to see the result and the steps to get there. Well done!
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Småbrukaren: How wide is the window? I can imagine two rafters on the outside with something like c/c 40 and then skipping over the window. Then c/c 80 up to the next window and the same on the outside of the far window works just fine.
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myrstack: Drill a larger hole. Insert a suitable dowel into the hole and then screw into the dowel with a wood screw.
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eztoril: Hi, Update: Here's how it turned out. See pictures. [bild] [bild] As you can see, I moved the blocks into the corners to make room for the wheels. The tracks that extend onto the lawn are removable, making it easier to load the pallet. However, I noticed it was very heavy to push or pull in a fully loaded pallet, so I bought a winch at Jula (and built a little roof over it) - works perfectly!
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sturnus: [citat] [citat] that the guys from the design office will come to TS for a barbecue and do it for a few beers? :-D
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sturnus: If you have any problems with your purchase, I am currently in Poland and will be returning to Sweden after the holidays, so I can help.
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Jocke Best: Perhaps a crazy idea, but say there's a hole directly inside and the rod disappears, in principle, you could use a long rod, and screw on nuts far along the rod, and then push it first deep into one side, and then push it into the other hole. Then tighten the nuts. Then it sits like a rock and supports itself with a through rod. All in one go, with anchor mass and all.
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angelica.olmgren: We have a two-story house with a basement built in 1947. We bought the house in 2017. On the upper floor of the house, we have a large room with a kattvind on each side of the room. Now the idea is to tear down the wall to one of the kattvindar and convert the wall to increase the total area of the large room and then divide it into two bedrooms. We've been assuming that the wall is obviously
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