Building Materials and Construction Technology
sommarlängtan: [citat] How did you solve the attachment issue?
sommarlängtan: [citat] Hi! How did you solve it? I'm in the same situation.
Gredelin: Hello! I have cedar wood in various sizes that will become wine racks in the pantry. The side pieces of the shelves should be about 30 cm deep. That means I need to glue together some lengths to achieve the right width. I'll probably use those that are 13 cm wide. How would you glue them together to achieve this? PU glue tends to run out and leave ugly marks. Can I use another type of glue? Would
Stefan N: This should be good. https://ardex.se/produkt/ardex-a-46/
AG A: [citat] I saw that from the very beginning. BUT, they are spliced according to "the art's all rules," and therefore hold just as well as unspliced.
fribygg: Hello and welcome to Byggahus! It should be fine to frame a new wall inside the window wall if you want to do that.
Killen som behöver hjälp: [citat] Haha! Great! Thanks for the super reply, I hope that in total it doesn't exceed 100k in materials with air purifier, plastic, suspended ceiling, insulation, new joists, pine flooring, other wall surfaces, and moldings. It's about 43 square meters 😊
BirgitS: [citat] I remember that Justus once wrote that the direction of the beam flooring could vary between different rooms when it came to houses before the era of standardization. Like if you didn't have beams that reached all the way along the living room, you would place them across the living room, regardless of the direction of the roof trusses. Now, it's unlikely when it comes to the small
Pjosk75: Opening in the foundation wall Since the only access to the crawl space today is through the pantry under the kitchen, a new opening needs to be made directly from the outside. The foundation wall consists of 5 layers of lecablock resting on a poured footing. On the outside, there is a 15 cm layer of poured concrete. On the inside where I want to make the opening, there is a vertical crack
Robert N: [citat] Hi, having similar thoughts. Old thread but trying to ask what you concluded?
Rickard Engqvist: Thank you, in the inspection report it says that it is a wooden frame covered with plaster.
Huggabuggaa: When insulating with Lamellmatta, the seams should be taped, and then wire should be wrapped around the duct to ensure that the tape does not come off and the duct is not exposed. There is a risk of condensation, especially if it is supply air ducts.
PTA: Thank you for the response.
g_51: Thank you for all the answers!! After much consideration, I have decided to try to accept it. 😊 If in the future it bothers me or if it gets bumped, I plan to install a narrow corner trim.
Kane: A plywood panel is screwed into the battens and possibly with drywall anchors depending on the location if not l [citat] It will hold. Buy birch plywood and paint in a suitable color. (But with cc 300 the drywall will also hold if you use something like Molly....)
Stefan.o: Old thread but here's something similar: https://www.rinab.nu/slaepvagn-a/Chassiedelar/FlakskruvVagnsbult/Flakskruv-M6x30-Torx.htm Regards
makhno_: [citat] It can simplify battens, air gap, and panel depending on the panel type and is a balance of labor effort in different stages vs the cost of thicker studs.
Daro: [citat] So all would work equally well? 😊 Happy Step, would it be used between construction plastic and chipboard flooring?
Radhusfarsan: [citat] Clarification, the exposed asfaboard is located approximately at floor level on the exterior wall where I smell it in the room.
Ironside: Hello, I have seen several cases where craftsmen have applied white sealant on end grain, for example, between eave boards. I assume the idea is that this is meant to replace oil and primer? So even if we get the opportunity to oil and paint the end grain, there might be no point if the craftsmen are going to apply white sealant there anyway? Of course, we will paint over this with topcoat later
Ironside: Now I'm no expert, but as I understand it, Fasad Plus from Beckers is a modern acrylic paint that forms a protective film on the surface. It is partially diffusion-open, but not as open as older paint types like linoljefärg. The paint fades slowly, the surface chalks less, and it is said to withstand UV light and weather well without needing to be repainted as often. High-quality acrylic paint
Bigw: Hi, I want a nice concrete or leveling compound floor throughout the entire basement level of my house. The house is built on an uninsulated slab (built in the 80s, gravel under the slab). Without having looked into the matter further, there should currently be a thicker layer of cell plastic/foil under the existing floor, meaning it is somewhat ventilated. There are no signs of moisture in the
13th Marine: Arecodirekt I believe sells to private individuals. But check with local steel dealers, I don't think they need to be reluctant to sell to private individuals.
FilipLiljeqvist: Hello! I used Ardex A46. It's quite a difficult product to work with as it has a very short "open time" compared to regular mortar and plaster. I was basically running back and forth between the mixing area and the stairs 🙃. But we are happy with the result. It gave a more dynamic look compared to a cast staircase. It has some color variations which I believe are due to different mixes of
jonaserik: [citat] Shaving off a few millimeters on a tile you can probably forget about. If they are ceramic tiles, it's not possible. Too bad you found them after casting; it would have been easier to adjust the height then. So it'll probably mean rethinking with other tiles for purchase. EDIT I just saw that they are limestone tiles, and they are kind of porous and can be ground down. But they also
Hunneberg: Hello! I'm rebuilding the porch and planning to install a sauna there. I have cast a base and built up with LECA to get above ground level and currently have no vent in there. My plan is to build walls and roof with paneling, air gap, wind barrier, insulation, sauna plastic, possibly a small air gap, and then inner panel. The floor is planned to have vinyl flooring on top, and otherwise, I'm
joakim_j: Could grease have leaked from the ventilation duct in some way? Like from a seam or something.
jterra: [citat] Thanks for the response. I've heard that the bits can heat up significantly and need to be cooled down slowly. Should you have many bits, like 5-10, to rotate them? Is there a risk of slipping at the start when you first begin to drill into the granite, and is there any sensible technique to minimize that risk?
Chrzan: You will probably get more and better responses if you both post more pictures of the house than this small snippet, and also describe the function the roof is supposed to serve. "Entrétak" can be interpreted as anything from a cantilevered glass panel that protects the door leaf for the brief moment it is opened, to something large on posts, providing more permanent protection for an entire
Qewla: Thanks for the response, I'm leaning towards securing it with screws. It will be in a room that will probably be renovated in the future, which is why I don't want to use glue.