Is this a common Swedish wall construction in a wooden frame house?

[Stefan1972]

I don't think one should compare with the USA/Canada at all.............they have a completely different mindset than we do. There they just build and deal with any consequences when the time comes. We build as if it should be problem-free for 500 years.....
They often have mold problems and water leaks in installations over there but it doesn't really matter. They fix the essentials and just move on. They don't care in the same way......

 

[Pat Kot]

I don't think we should compare with the USA/Canada at all.............they have a completely different mindset than we do. There, they just build and deal with any consequences when the time comes. We build as if it should be problem-free for 500 years.....
They quite often have mold problems and water leaks in installations over there but it doesn't really matter. They just fix what's necessary and move on. They don't care in the same way......

But I would like to have a more solid house, in your style. What is the simplest and cheapest wall construction for a solid wooden house according to the Swedes? What should be changed in the solution described in the first post?

 

[Testarn]

But I would like a more solid house, in your style. What is the simplest and cheapest wall construction for a solid wooden house according to the Swedes? What should be changed in the solution described in the first post?

I would follow the principle sketch in the link I sent, and if I take your list from the thread start and change the order, it would be:

• Interior cladding – e.g. plasterboard 12.5 mm
• OSB or construction plywood 12 mm – stabilization of the construction
• Installation layer 45 mm – studs 45×45 mm, filled with mineral wool (acoustics, reduction of thermal bridges)
• Vapor barrier – carefully sealed, cuffs at installations
• Load-bearing stud frame 45×145 mm – studs c/c 600 mm, filled with mineral wool
• Extra layer 45 mm – studs 45×45 mm, space filled with mineral wool (additional insulation)

Here I would probably put a layer of 45x195 with insulation instead of two, I do not see a sufficient "gain" in insulation terms to justify the extra cost of having two layers

• Bitumen sheet ~12 mm (softboard) – windproof, acoustic, diffusion-open board
• Wind protection membrane – with overlap and sealing tape

Here I would choose either the sheet or the wind protection fabric, there is no reason to have both

• Nail battens/counter battens 20–30 mm – ventilated air gap (intake at base, exit at roof edge)
• Wooden facade – rough panel painted with covering paint

 

[makhno_]

Here, I would probably use a layer of 45x195 with insulation instead of two. I don't see a big enough "gain" in terms of insulation.

It can simplify battens, air gap, and panel depending on the panel type and is a balance of labor effort in different stages vs the cost of thicker studs.