Building Materials and Construction Technology
Bellmans: [citat] Oh, I really hope you are correct, would be so much easier! 🤞it’s a catalog home from 1972
sturnus: Nej! The exterior wall should be braced at the top with a horizontal beam (header), creating a single frame. Ceiling joists are oversized unless there is a usable attic. These joists should be mounted on a so-called balloon beam, recessed into the load-bearing wall studs, ensuring a very strong ceiling structure. Another option is a platform construction. [bild] Note that on the structure above,
Spikbjörn: It depends on what your ambition is with a "small guest cottage in the country"? It will likely look like the product images, i.e., quite uniform and monotonous in that way. But I wouldn't describe it as "plasticky." If you want it more rustic, you should put up regular paneling with the variations it provides to make the surface more "alive." Ultimately, just like with the Christmas tree, the
useless: [citat] I have mine standing with the can upright and have not noticed any problems despite sometimes going six months between uses.
evalottis: [citat] A radon measurement was done about 20 years ago which showed 260 bq. But I assume it's ground radon then? Maybe a little more ventilation is enough to reduce it a bit?
Andreaslur: Hello everyone! I'm going to install a beam staircase to the loft and need some input/tips/advice from you here. The beam staircase is second-hand, not a "wrong order," but more of an attempt to solve it "cheaply and adequately" ;-) It turned out to have a slightly wrong angle on the steps or be too short for our ceiling height, and I have two proposed solutions. The first proposal is to change
fribygg: Hello and welcome to the forum Has there been any digging, draining, or blasting nearby? I think it will be difficult to bolt together a crack in Siporex.
fribygg: Whether you have regular dirt, black mold, or green algae on the underside of the deck, it is harmless and usually completely possible to wash away without strong chemicals or the need to replace the wood. Step 1 is cleaning with warm water, Yes dish soap, and scrubbing with a brush if you want it clean.
Roger Ravnestam: I built a "quick 'n dirty" version this summer with what was in the woodpile.
Småbrukaren: Yes, copper and cement are not a good combination. It appears to be connections on the heating system that have a limited lifespan. However, a leak on them might not be dangerous since there is only a limited amount of water in the heating system. One thought I had was to fill with lecakulor and then an even layer of foam that you can then plaster over. This way, you'll have something that's easy
Moltipo: Well, I was thinking of removing as much as possible. What do you fill it with afterwards?
Mortsken: I have a Fontanot Zen space-saving staircase to the attic. We've had it for quite a while, but haven't really gotten around to finishing the railing. Unfortunately, it's really wobbly. The staircase looks like this: [bild] [bild] [bild] Up until now, it hasn't been attached to the wall at all. This is what was included. I don't understand how it's supposed to be sturdy with just one bracket for
Liinkaan: Yes exactly. So we should assume that our wall is load-bearing.
ErikMR: [citat] The picture isn't great, but it probably illustrates well enough how it looks.
grovspacklarn: [citat] Great, then it can't be that much more expensive - saw blades don't cost that much - a few thousand here or there
Hans Nielsen: [citat] Thanks!! Now I just need to figure out which shed I have but I'll probably solve it
Byggkonsult89: You need to know the loads the beam is subjected to and then find a dimension based on load and span.
Byggkonsult89: If your association requires a statement from a constructor
ptk: I am going to glue a brass strip at the sauna entrance according to the picture. All the glue I've looked at have a maximum resistance of 80-90°. It would feel more secure if the resistance was a bit higher, does anyone know of a glue that works up to perhaps 200°? I've looked at Tec7, XtremFix+, PL400. I can't screw because of the drywall end. [bild] [bild]
vold: [citat] Thank you. Yes, I'm basing a bit on the descriptions there but have difficulty applying it directly to the measurements in my planned construction.
slothy: [citat] Great, nice to hear 😁 Time to measure humidity over time and see if I need to address the ventilation then. That way I can focus on climbing on the roof for now 🎉💥 Thanks for the answer!
fribygg: [citat] You've posted in a thread about a dock, but bounce in a patio doesn't really matter unless you enclose it.
Magnus_Nordmark: [citat] Snow zone 2 as I wrote above. Column load is what the beam actually presses downward on its support. Dim column load is the actual load plus some safety factors, i.e., the load you should design the column for.