Building Materials and Construction Technology
polaris78: Yes, the constant trick question is whether it is load-bearing or not and if those boxes contain any load-bearing beams or joists.. it's not entirely easy to see when it's all painted, trimmed, and finished.. One way might be to check if any building permit has been applied for the change. In the best case, there might be some drawings and calculations at the municipality that reveal how it is
Dublin: Doesn't the frame fit on this side of the concrete beam then? If the question was the easiest solution?
Lena Holm: Need dark brown staircase tiles for outdoor staircase renovation. Profile tiles are needed for the front edge of the steps 20x9cm with a front piece 20x5cm. Additionally, some regular tiles 24x11.5cm. Thickness 1.5cm Very grateful for tips on where I could find these tiles [bild] [bild] [bild]
Magnus E K: If it is the first half of the 70s, there is a very high probability that the vinyl flooring has a layer of asbestospaper on the underside, which is good to keep in mind during demolition.
Johan Gunverth: https://www.gotwood.se/products/fanerade-skivor?variant=39806380769433 https://www.calexicowood.se/faneradmdf
Claes Sörmland: [citat] Yes, you must comply with any regulations on color in the detailed plan and must not create significant inconvenience for neighbors. Then, there is no direct obstacle to changing the color of a roof if one feels like it, as there is no strict preservation requirement in PBL except concerning valuable buildings and areas, it's not an entirely conservative law. The requirement for care has
evoline: Hello, What tips do you have for building this wardrobe into the hallway? First anchor the wardrobe to the wall behind and the side, and then install studs around with gypsum board or other material? Thanks in advance
jonaserik: [citat] It might work, but a bar on each side is probably preferable; with just one bar, it can twist/bend due to the wind. The entire package/cover is like a sailboat, and the force is great to drive one forward, everything is calculated in m2 for wind uptake.
Nissegandhi: I would choose a thinner beam but tall so that all the insulation fits. Like 42x450mm (this is just a guess), you can order such with a finished tenon or make the tenon on-site. The supporting beam should be sufficiently wide and beveled according to the roof slope for adequate support surface. Your building materials supplier can assist with all this and be responsible for the calculation.
jonaserik: [citat] It was very common in the past to complement a house with a fireplace or something similar. There were big problems with getting a chimney in a good way. The easiest was to place it on the outside and a gable. Just rubbish really, but what can you do, it can't generate any heat for the house, only the crows get warm feet. Best as it's said """" the church should be in the middle of the
fribygg: [citat] As far as I know, there is only wood and cement in träullit, but contact Träullit AB and ask if you are concerned.
janwide: [bild] This is how it turned out. Some painting left but I'm saving that for the spring. At least it's weatherproofed now.
Hunneberg: [citat] You didn't misunderstand; it will become an interior wall from a previous exterior wall. However, I removed the outer panel, so it's really just a framed wall that I've now also added insulation to. And the question involves both that and the newly built walls. The former exterior wall becomes an interior wall between 2 rooms that have roughly the same temperature (heated simultaneously),
Linnea Lundh: Hello! We're going to renovate a bedroom where the chimney breast goes through. Currently, I think it's plasterboard that's wallpapered, the rest is tretex. We'll probably tear it all down since it's damaged in several places. I'm considering using Huntonit Pro wall panels (I don't like plasterboard 😅). Is it okay to put it on the chimney breast as well? I know you're not normally supposed to
Chrzan: [citat] Unforgivably sloppy of me to miss the clear info; partly that it was only above the bathroom one would switch to mineral wool, and also the change to a heavier roof material. Thank you for pointing that out. That said, I was reassured enough when I saw the truss drawing that it didn't feel necessary for further scrutiny - if one has followed the drawings, it is built with safe margins (in
raekan: Hello! I'm in the process of plastering two exterior corners where we've put renovation drywall on the chimney breast. Some of the corners are drywall against drywall, but one corner is painted/unpainted wallpaper and drywall. I was planning to create nice corners with Aquabead, but now I read that they are only meant to be applied on drywall. Does anyone have experience with installing these on
klaskarlsson: [citat] Looks like some sort of sealing tape on a roll? like: https://www.bauhaus.se/isolering-tecca-t-syll-170mmx50m?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21722997825&gbraid=0AAAAADxd_kyQDlL5xMY-re3x_vRlwPWYM&gclid=Cj0KCQjwovPGBhDxARIsAFhgkwRVqsfmu5Q_PQVbdWDQ78r0f0K-oHg8vnAkTcM2PPJbdJg9sbFDWAkaAvbwEALw_wcB
klaskarlsson: [citat] I would probably start by building up the wall with husfix, mortar, or possibly gypsum plaster since in some places it looks like quite a bit has been taken out. If there are really large holes, then a lightweight concrete block that you cut to size might be a better idea than building it all up from scratch. Then on top, you can fill and sand to make it nice.
pette_rsson: Planning to lay tiles on an outdoor step. It's just one step, more like a platform, about 2x2m and 150mm high. I'm searching and searching for good stair nosing profiles for tiles. Hornbach has some, but I can't find them anywhere else. Do you have any good tips? They should probably be stainless steel to withstand outdoor conditions, I think. The maximum length at Hornbach is also 110cm. I'd
Novissnickare: [citat] Yes, I followed the plan by routing grooves, gluing, and screwing. Lessons learned: Hard to achieve good slope, step height, and step depth. Spent a lot of time testing slope with string and angle measure. Had to compromise and create a landing at the top to decrease the slope to the final 37.5 degrees. Do not underestimate this step! Take time to make a good template with sturdy
Ironside: Yes, it ended up being Tec7 and Biltema's multibond, i.e. stuff I had at home, hope it lasts in the long run.
BirgitS: It is likely that the knee wall (or the standing studs, i.e. the roof trusses, in them) are load-bearing. The tongue and groove or whatever covers between the roof trusses helps to make the house stable, for example, when it is very windy, as I understand it. This is normal for that type of roof truss and they are also drawn on the sectional drawing. See here:
grovspacklarn: [citat] Doesn't it require a really experienced hand to finish the application before it hardens too much?
BirgitS: I believe these are the doors: https://elfa.com/sv-se/produkter/skjutdorrar/artic But I can't remember if the fillings are melamine or MDF. However, since there's a bit of a difference in the structure and there's also a profile (with a different color) between the wall and the door filling, I don't think it's important to paint with the wall color, and it will look fine with an ordered color.
Ironside: Hi, I have previously used PU 700 to glue a mexitegel wall which worked excellently, still holding up today, 7 years later. [bild] Now a couple of bricks have come loose on our facade, also mexitegel. In some cases, it's whole clumps with 2-3 bricks and some mortar. My first thought is to buy a can of PU 700 but it does contain unpleasant substances like isocyanates. What do you think about using
TheGame: [citat] Yes, the west coast board should be placed against the windbreak, which in this case is the asfaboard 👍