Building Materials and Construction Technology
jterra: [citat] Thanks for the response. I've heard that the bits can heat up significantly and need to be cooled down slowly. Should you have many bits, like 5-10, to rotate them? Is there a risk of slipping at the start when you first begin to drill into the granite, and is there any sensible technique to minimize that risk?
Chrzan: You will probably get more and better responses if you both post more pictures of the house than this small snippet, and also describe the function the roof is supposed to serve. "Entrétak" can be interpreted as anything from a cantilevered glass panel that protects the door leaf for the brief moment it is opened, to something large on posts, providing more permanent protection for an entire
Qewla: Thanks for the response, I'm leaning towards securing it with screws. It will be in a room that will probably be renovated in the future, which is why I don't want to use glue.
estrandler: Hi! We have bought an apartment from 1930 that we are renovating. The walls currently have wallpaper, and underneath there is either: Brick, mortar, and then some sort of paperboard [bild] [bild] Cross beams with some kind of mortar and reed [bild] [bild] The goal is smooth walls, and it would obviously be good if it’s as easy as possible to screw things in. Just applying putty feels risky that
martinradbo: I don't have any pictures here now, but the solution was to build crib docks with pressure-treated lumber of the highest quality, placed a bit out in the water. Around 1 x 1 x 1 meter that we filled with LOTS of stone. On the inner side, I drilled with a rock drill and attached post bases with anchor adhesive under the water. Then beams between the crib docks on the outer edge, and between the
MånsaSven: [citat] Thanks for the responses. Thus, three out of three estimates for a load-bearing wall. I will still contact the municipality tomorrow, but the wall will remain for now.
mexitegel: Yes, preferably. It's not the end of the world for the ceiling and floor if you're going to have coving. As mentioned, in a pinch, you might insert an angle profile in the corner if there's a stud on the other side. You will then have to loosen the outermost row of screws on the drywall.
Bitterhetsakademin: [citat] The company that did the work boasts of over thirty years of experience and great expertise. I called the supervisor who sarcastically responded: it’s not a dance floor and we’re not doing anything more. Needless to say, they didn't get any good reviews from me.
Testarn: [citat] Well, I wrote that to avoid using the brand name Masonite... 😜 If there is floor gypsum in 6mm, it should work as well. Edit: noticed that this post/reply went out a bit late... 🥴 Regarding chipboard or Masonite on top, I don't know, but guessing that you need to glue to the joists and each layer to the chipboard if it's going to cooperate.
Swebfn: [citat] Haven't gotten around to it yet. Probably won't be until next year, I think. :)
AvsAnnelie: [citat] Superduper thanks for the input 🤜🤛
Tony1979: Hi, is anyone knowledgeable about roof tiles? I'm looking for a few roof tiles, around 10 pieces, with "Arabygg" marked on the back of the concrete tile. The house was built in 1971. Where can I find and buy these spares? I need to replace 5 broken ones directly on the roof. Thanks for all the help. Wider model Marked Arabygg 420mm x 450mm high x 440mm wide
Lars Molenkamp: I am going to insulate a garage, the door was installed when only the frame was built, what I'm wondering is, do I have to/how do I readjust the door, as the brackets will be moved 250 mm outward since I'm adding OSB and gypsum on the outside of the frame, does anyone know how to do that? :)
Chrzan: [citat] There you go! It is likely the taste of the respective client that decided it. But in line with the above: it is still just an appearance. Without having seen his floor plans, we don't know at all if this house is "better."
Nygge72: [citat] I was thinking about a pre-cut frame in that case, and when I received the drawings, I thought they were designed too small and was then explained that the board sits on the slab, otherwise, the building permit wouldn't match the measurements, so the building area becomes larger. I always assumed it would sit outside. I'll have to check that.
fribygg: I think the battens risk becoming damp and possibly rotting over time. Suggest that you plaster the interior and insulate and fix a suitable exterior facade if you are going to have the garage heated.
Persson f.N.B.: [citat] That's what I was thinking or rather advised to do by an acquaintance.
Ranx: After closer inspection, it looks like dry cement mortar, but to be honest, I have no idea. Isn't the mortar in the wall supposed to be that soft? I am very much a novice but trying to learn.
Mikael_L: It was probably killenph who raised the thread
JLIM: Admittedly an old thread, but I'm curious about how it went with this. Did you make the holes you planned without any adaptation or other reinforcement?
Gbgsd123: Your local well-stocked paint shop has stain-blocking spray in a can, a gold to have at home👍🏻 If you live in Gothenburg, I recommend Ljungdahls färg, which has 3 stores in the Gothenburg area that have it.
Kjell_G: There were some scraps from before, and it was clear when I put them together - no, it doesn't work. But there's hope, the missus suggested placing the boards the other way. The room has a sloped ceiling, so there will be a cover strip at the transition. It felt a bit unusual but I think it will look okay.
Drobni: [citat] Yes, I have come to that conclusion as well now. Thank you.
Dr Benz: It turned out to be foam sealant. It also stabilized the frame, so it turned out fantastic.
Bönhas: Strange that they manage it. But nature is strange! Wasps are pests that destroy houses. If you have them, the solution is to exterminate them.
Annette Gradin: [citat] Where did you send the test and how much did it cost? 🤔