Building Materials and Construction Technology
BirgitS: To achieve good ventilation, an exhaust vent is probably needed there because having just gaps above/below the door won't provide much ventilation (or you could have the door open most of the time).
Pontus Sundberg: This is what it really looks like, if that helps. Previously, there was masonite board + wallpaper. And it worked for 100 years 🤣 [bild] What I've done now is put up OSB + drywall to stiffen/straighten the walls before wallpapering. But I don't know what to do around the stove...
neo11: If it's ardex A46, it will adhere to paint. But upload some pictures, and you'll probably get better advice. Rep995 might be an alternative, from weber.
searayn: [citat] Thanks Mats!
Stefan N: Posting in a 15-year-old thread with terrible advertising, shame.
Lillekitte: I have no idea if acoustic panels would be problematic specifically in a basement. But it sounds like you're considering putting acoustic panels on all 4 walls in a room? From what I've understood, that's not recommended - the sound in the room can feel strange/unpleasant - the room becomes "overabsorbed"/dead.
erikssonkarin: [citat] Hi! I have a similar project going on. Do you happen to have any pictures of how it turned out?
Mats-S: You can handle it yourself without any problem, there are adjustable hooks that are super easy to attach to the eave board. https://www.byggmax.se/rännkrok-ställbar-svart-p26332 But before you secure the hooks, seriously check how the water runs off the roof with varying intensities, so that the water doesn't end up inside or outside of the gutter.
Chronaus: [citat] Sure, I'm grateful for the input but if it can simply be wiped off, I don't understand the problem...
klaskarlsson: [citat] Isover writes a bit about diffusion-tight roofs vs. no air gap https://www.isover.se/oventilerad-konstruktion#diffusionstatt-yttertak In a small timber cabin, I have used Hunton boards (hygroscopic insulation made of wood fiber) and a vapor barrier, but with diffusion-tight paper on top of the roof boarding. This will not be inhabited and will only be partly heated (kept above 0), but
swirve: [citat] Yes! Then they get to lie for another 10 years behind the barn 😉
Katarina12345: [citat] Aha, okay, I understand, the post is part of a gymnastics bar that will stand in the community's playground. So the requirements for depth, width, etc. are strict to meet the regulations for these structures. [/QUOTE]
BirgitS: Go to Bauhaus and ask about floor protection to place under appliances and in the sink cabinet.
Höghus: Result 4.5 years later, price increase of 40% adjusted for inflation. Huvva! /Höghus https://x.com/ekonomigurun_/status/1970829150773792831
Aj12: Yes, I was surprised myself when I saw that it was a concrete attic floor. Thank you so much for all the responses! It feels like I got a certain breadth in the answers. Just as some of you mentioned, the reason I wanted to raise the question was because I couldn't see the wall on the reinforcement drawing. In other words, the cast slab "f1" does not reinforce against it. "f1" corresponds to the
BirgitS: I have seen drawings where that type of two parallel dashed lines has been used for beams and for options prior to construction start, e.g., it was possible to choose to have a door there instead. It is, of course, also possible that the exhaust duct has been removed during a renovation.
Johan Gunverth: [citat] It was one of the suggestions for you when you couldn't find suitable fastening. Rampamuff is used in many places where parts are only joined in an assembly. Even just once, for example, in some furniture. The thing with rampamuff is that it has two different pitches so that the inner has lower friction when tightening and the outer (usually) stays in place. You might need to glue the
roli: They are still close to the long side, so it is close to the edge there as well. I have no experience with concrete screws and whether they create tension during installation. I would have used anchoring adhesive and threaded rod there as well to be on the safe side.
slothy: Does anyone know if the store is still around? The page doesn't seem to load.
Jonssson13: How did you do? Did it turn out well? Do you have pictures? I’m planning to do something similar next year.
Lilu75: [citat] Because the rain had run underneath, and the underlay felt was wet. Now everything has dried, and I've put on the surface felt again and nailed it in the exact same holes. The moisture issue under the sheet apparently had to do with the leak because now it's dry. I hope it stays that way. Thanks for your help!
Solrosen: Thank you! The farm is now for sale —->> https://www.hemnet.se/bostad/villa-7rum-orbyhus-tierps-kommun-akra-201-21612967
fribygg: Then drill reinforcing bar stubs into the sides of the existing
klaskarlsson: [citat] Ok, yes the same applies to a shed roof: the "rafters" rest on the long sides
Nilstyko: You can mix steel wool with the foam sealant. Spray in foam, then press the steel wool into it.
Arne999: I have an old basement that is 80% underground (on a slope). It's time to renovate 3 of the rooms. I will not dig outside and drain or anything like that for several reasons. No. 1 is that after the basement there is an entryway extension. The house is on a slope so there are no direct moisture problems BUT it's not completely dry either... The times you notice moisture are during extreme
50thomas: https://www.nytimes.com/video/business/100000010368290/taiwan-manufacturing-trump-tariffs-screws.html
Alfredo: [citat] https://www.otis.com/sv/se https://www.nordiclifttech.se/ https://www.schindler.se/sv.html https://www.kone.se/ If you google "hissrenovering" you get quite a few more hits.