Building Materials and Construction Technology
Bluegreengrey77: [citat] Good input regarding what draws attention! Then I know I want to go with the chamfering solution! 👍
Karl-Ove Qvarfordt: If you are going to drill a hole in a floor joist, make sure to make the hole in the middle, preferably just above, as this will weaken the least. Reinforcements will probably also be needed.
jonaserik: Pin nail with a small head to go in and disappear. Likely also of the electro-galvanized and shiny type, they don't hold well, they tend to creep out. They should be hot-dip galvanized, they are knobby and grip well, and do not tend to creep out.
Crabfish: Hello! Thank you for your replies. I have moved on and chipped away the plaster that was clearly loose, now with better technique. The next problem is that there’s a hollow sound when I tap on some of the bricks in the corner. So it might be necessary to consult a murare after all. Worth noting is that there are lättbetong blocks next to the bricked area (the other walls in the house are made
Forsberg78: Eleven years later but I'm trying anyway. How did the stairs work out? I have a similar one and am also considering removing the spjälorna.
visalovisa: [citat] Hi! I submitted it for testing for 1200 kronor with results the next day and it contained no asbestos!
Gubel: [citat] Why not a steel beam then? Should handle it at much lower dimensions.
plåtrickard: [citat] I agree.. But if you still plan to do so.. Then it's about building a frame that lies on the roof and mounting posts in
jonaserik: A piece of mesh wire that is attached with staples to the wood and then pulled out slightly so there is a gap, allowing plaster to come slightly inside the mesh and adhere well. However, it is likely that there will be a crack between the new and old plaster that can't be removed and may reappear periodically. If the plaster becomes uneven, a round of spackling will be needed.
Ekoest: Hej! Vi har bytat syllar på huset för flera år sedan. Men det finns fortfarande en doft kvar vid dörren typ. Körde en kamera genom spalten utifrån för att kontrollera och hittade några träreglar som jag misstänkte kanske är tryckta. Vad tror ni?
Peter Eriksson2799: [citat] A frame around then something like 95x45 studs at the bottom and maybe 40cc between them. On those, floor chipboard and on top of that industrial foam tiles perhaps 1.5 inches thick
YuGi: [citat] Yes, they come in different sizes. If you only have mdf, it will be a bit wobbly in the middle, but you have the cabinet behind which provides support if someone "throws themselves against the wall." When you put up shelves, you need to consider the length of the screws so that they don't come out on the backside.
Bjoernb: Finja Laga wall sounds like a good option. Thank you.
antonkarlsson1196: I understand. It's unclear how long the crack has been there, it was there 2 months ago during the viewing but I seem to remember it being smaller, hence my concern. The house was built in 1966. What I can do is call the previous owner and see what he knows, we also have an inspector coming on 10/21. Is there anything else I should do?
ASZ007: [citat] Thank you @Chrzan and @Mikael_L for the link to the documents! It clearly states how to proceed.
cpalm: Are you thinking that the double door and single door lead into the bathroom, or will they be "false doors"? Having multiple doors to a bathroom is practical when you're home alone, but otherwise, it's a setup for awkward situations. I also agree with what you wrote earlier that the corridor serves an important function in connecting the rooms. In particular, one might think that the gentry and
TorpAnders: Test and tap with a hammer from below, the hatch should only be lifted upwards to detach.
larsakeni: [citat] Hi, Thank you for your comment. The leak is in a corner adjacent to an extension with a panel parapet. I have sealed with silicone along the sheet metal and roof but despite that, it drips in the corner when it rains. I have added some photos. Best regards, Lars
Lucipurr: [citat] I managed to get drawings from the municipality and this is how it looks like if that says anything. I took down the moldings from the opening on the left and can't see any beam there either. The top of that opening is as porous as if someone just sawed through siporex.
Pelle333: Thank you so much for all the answers. It is a BRF with 90 townhouses. Received a maintenance plan today. A pipe replacement is planned for 2042.
Robert-san01: These are special nail guns for cardboard nails because they have such a large head. Staples can work. You will need one that takes fairly long and thick staples and preferably one with a bit of width on the staple so they have some material to hold onto. I used staples for both OSB and ceiling panels when we built the house, Makita 1150 which has an 11mm width between the legs and 25-50mm deep
Arne999: I poured a new slab in a part of the barn about 7-8 years ago. It was in front of the barn on a slope, and I filled the area with about 10cm of macadam on an old slab and poured on top of that. The old slab was rock hard/reinforced, but the problem was that water often stood on it. Now the water is gone, and the space is dry. For example, I've had some wooden beams lying on the slab (unheated)
Stefan1972: Yeah, but I was mostly wondering if it was very obvious............if cold air comes in that way, it might be difficult to keep it out just by pushing something under the cabinets.
xxargs: Cabin/glass walls that are not too large in floor area are also better at retaining warmth around the body during showering than a completely open shower area (brr - I shiver at the thought of encountering such 'modern' showers in, for example, hotels - every time I come home after working away, I realize that my shower cabin and showerhead are actually really good - the only thing that beats it
gaia: The simplest way is to peel off the wallpaper on this moisture-affected wall and let it dry. Once it has dried, you can paint with a paint that allows moisture to pass through, and that should suffice as a measure. The small amount of moisture that migrates through should not leave any significant marks. It may be barely noticeable once it comes out. Drainage would hardly help since you cannot
ansbjo: [citat] Hi, this sounds very interesting. We have recently bought a house where there has been an indoor pool. The water has been drained. A floor has been built over it. In the cavity under the floor, dehumidifiers run around the clock, in addition to an EPS system being installed to keep moisture out. We will never use this as a pool and are therefore considering possible alternatives. Is it