But the panel votes for a roof without a lot of ventilation, which is insulated? Vapor barrier/brake?
Thinking further.F fribygg said:
Outdoor panel generally has an air gap behind it. But indoors, you might not want an air gap behind it if you want to keep the heat in. I'm wondering if such a construction would dry out properly just by having a loosely laid floor.
How did you plan the walls?
From the outside: panel, windproof paper, studs, panel? That is, no air gaps?
What about building with horizontal 45x120 studs? And sealing between with some tape or sealant. Or standing, the risk of something remaining in between the rooms is smaller.S sjoelund said:
If I calculate it for a wall 1.5x2.2 m (wxh).
Panel+paper+studs+panel: around 2000 SEK.
Standing/horizontal studs: about 1100 SEK.
I have a laundry and shower room built with interior walls of tongue and groove paneling painted with linseed oil paint. The surface is water-repellent and wipeable, while still allowing enough breathability for the (reasonable level of) moisture in the room to self-regulate.
Natural fiber insulation and exterior wall that is partly tongue and groove (against unheated area inside an old barn) and partly old red-painted cladding (the barn's existing plank wall, which due to gaps has had a layer of windproof paper nailed from the inside). Otherwise, it's only the fact that the boards are tongue and grooved that provides wind protection. On the ceiling, I have placed a layer of paper directly above the tongue and groove, primarily to direct more of the moisture to the walls (because of what is above, all walls only have free air outside).
Poured floor, skirting with the height of a brick that lifts the wall from contact with any water on the floor. Used year-round, in winter heated electrically to about 15 degrees. Ventilation is just a plate vent and natural draft. (able to dry one machine of laundry every 1-2 days in winter) Shower in a cabin (to protect walls, but also because it was the simplest way to arrange an appropriate floor surface and drainage from there).
The key is having control over water load, i.e., not using the room unreflectively as if it were a modern bathroom. It tolerates both humid air and water on the walls - as long as it doesn't become too much and it has time to dry out regularly.
and uses materials that can withstand moisture fluctuations. The latter is why I wanted tongue and groove paneling, but no sheets, just pure wood.
If wanting a shower area without a cabin, I had considered putting up an extra wall surface on standoffs that can take the running water. To break contact with the underlying wall construction and have ventilation in between (and if necessary, be able to replace it).
Natural fiber insulation and exterior wall that is partly tongue and groove (against unheated area inside an old barn) and partly old red-painted cladding (the barn's existing plank wall, which due to gaps has had a layer of windproof paper nailed from the inside). Otherwise, it's only the fact that the boards are tongue and grooved that provides wind protection. On the ceiling, I have placed a layer of paper directly above the tongue and groove, primarily to direct more of the moisture to the walls (because of what is above, all walls only have free air outside).
Poured floor, skirting with the height of a brick that lifts the wall from contact with any water on the floor. Used year-round, in winter heated electrically to about 15 degrees. Ventilation is just a plate vent and natural draft. (able to dry one machine of laundry every 1-2 days in winter) Shower in a cabin (to protect walls, but also because it was the simplest way to arrange an appropriate floor surface and drainage from there).
The key is having control over water load, i.e., not using the room unreflectively as if it were a modern bathroom. It tolerates both humid air and water on the walls - as long as it doesn't become too much and it has time to dry out regularly.
and uses materials that can withstand moisture fluctuations. The latter is why I wanted tongue and groove paneling, but no sheets, just pure wood.
If wanting a shower area without a cabin, I had considered putting up an extra wall surface on standoffs that can take the running water. To break contact with the underlying wall construction and have ventilation in between (and if necessary, be able to replace it).
Cabin/glass walls that are not too large in floor area are also better at retaining warmth around the body during showering than a completely open shower area (brr - I shiver at the thought of encountering such 'modern' showers in, for example, hotels - every time I come home after working away, I realize that my shower cabin and showerhead are actually really good - the only thing that beats it is a real bathtub with water as hot as you can handle...)