Building Materials and Construction Technology
Karl-Ove Qvarfordt: Steam brake did not exist then. It looks like you have some form of aluminum fabric. Not entirely uncommon back then.
ante.b: [citat] I have a soft-soldered T-piece where the connection that goes out of the pipe is damaged, is it possible to desolder and resolder a new piece of pipe without all the solder on the T-piece coming loose? It's 15mm pipe.
Nissegandhi: There is MDF in sizes up to 2070x2800mm, but it is not commonly available in stores, more for carpentry.
tergo: if it is an older house, it may possibly be Revetering or rappning is a technique for covering a wooden wall, first with an adhesive, usually wooden plugs, reed mats, or wire mesh, and then with plaster.
Purre: What does the manufacturer say about the distance to combustible materials, etc.? It's their rules that must be followed. But it feels very risky with wood so close to that heat. Otherwise, in Grand Designs Renovations season 1, episode 2, there was a couple with a 60s house that was completely remodeled. They have a similar stove and chose to put rectangular tiles on it, which I think turned out
jonaserik: [citat] If the heating works now, then forget about all the electronic components, it costs a fortune and breaks down. You won't recover the money it costs for many years and there's a risk of additional points of failure. Just read on BH about everyone who has problems with UFH.
Daniel Barnaniel: https://www.se.weber/berakningscentralen/atgangsberakning-golv
Jansson69: [citat] What you have in mind will work well, but it would probably suffice with construction screws that you angle screw with... But continue with the nail plates!
Krilleman: [citat] Go down to 200mm insulation if it's easier. Not wrong at all in any way. Aim for underfloor heating every day of the week if you can choose initially.
Olof_f: [citat] Yes, I'm considering such a solution.
Arboga_RH: It's probably better to place two horizontal studs, type 45x70 mm, that are attached to the standing studs. It will be more stable.
Britta-kajsa: [citat] Thanks, 🤗 I'll ask if they have a replacement maybe 🤞 you don't have the NCS code for the color, it was extremely nice! 😃
Zenon: I just ordered on Amazon, there's plenty to choose from.
Jessnet: [citat] Thanks, it's a combination of mice/drafts/heat and also a touch of aesthetics.
tergo: not a screw with a drill bit but a regular screw for wood and no plugs if it's chipboard
Intelligence2: [citat] It certainly is! Built according to option 1 in my first post, attached to the wall and ceiling, and tightened against washers on the floor with French wood screws. So far it has stood very stable!
JonasP27: Hello! We are in the process of radon-proofing our two-story house, built around 1900. We've had some companies come by to inspect and they suggested installing radon fans at two different points. There are already two duct fans installed (by the previous owner) which have questionable effectiveness. One company wants to connect a more powerful fan to one of the points (which goes down into a
henkepenk: It ended up being a plywood over three studs with a board attachment, with a screwed and glued plank where the vvb will hang. If it doesn't hold, I promise to take a picture of the spectacle, but it feels like it could withstand a direct hit from the Russians.
johanras: Thank you, the diameter is just over 90 cm, I believe more precisely 92.5.
klaskarlsson: [citat] Even if such a wall were to have any load-bearing function, I don't think the whole house would collapse, possibly you might get some settling over time, but place a couple of supports if you're worried.
Christer Forsbo: [citat] Thanks, prefer to screw if possible.
Onsalakorven: Make the ending straighter by lowering the ceiling slightly, if necessary. Bevel the plasterboards at the joint and fit them tightly against each other, and use tec7 in the seam. This way, you won't have to do a lot of unnecessary spackling and can use the boards that are in the slanted ceiling. That's how I would (and do in my own project)!
Laniel: [citat] I filled the big cracks with C-bruk. I also have some cracks the size you sent pictures of, but I haven't bothered with them. They are too narrow to fill with C-bruk in my opinion. But maybe someone else here has better arguments about them.
stais: [citat] A bit fun anyway - it's just a shame they didn't compare different insulation materials, but you could notice a difference without :) (it would have been good to also compare the different wall types, oh well)
Hannes Boson: [citat] The part that remains is firmly in place. I might have taken down a bit more than necessary.
Larsa: Usually, there is neither a steam brake nor a steam barrier in floors, unless it is underfloor heating or a slab on the ground. I would suggest using roofing felt at the bottom and then insulation...
Markus P: [citat] Depends on what kind of ply is used. It's not construction ply but 15mm birch ply I have lying around. Shouldn't be any problem after sanding and surface treatment.