Building Materials and Construction Technology
lofe: Thanks for the info. Then I'll use kalkbruk straight off.
b8q: Completely right to remove all organic material from a damp basement. Then think about what you are going to use the basement for; if you want it to be dry, then drainage is not a bad idea, it opens up a range of possible uses.
Zixten: I got curious and checked a bit on YouTube and found a number of more or less good ceiling storage ideas. Not all may be suitable for TS, but maybe one could work.... Search for "ceiling storage ideas" [MEDIA=youtube]l-W7okgreI4[/MEDIA] [MEDIA=youtube]9RT4cjNRtgk[/MEDIA] [MEDIA=youtube]G1MOavAn5tY[/MEDIA] [MEDIA=youtube]X1HGwtnbu28[/MEDIA] [MEDIA=youtube]HoKl8T727HA[/MEDIA]
Karrock: As long as you find the support the drywall is screwed into, it is insignificant from an installation perspective. The acoustics can be affected. If the panels are fuzzy throughout, the air gap behind can be significant for damping. It has to do with the wavelengths of different frequencies, and they are better dampened if certain multiples of the frequency's wavelength match the distance to
Chrzan: If the joists are completely "empty", it might make sense to fill the spaces between the joists with absorbent material. But you absolutely don't need to tear down the entire plank sub-ceiling. Loosen one end of a board in each space and spray in loose fill. You don't need to fill the compartments evenly or completely. An average layer of about 50-70 mm is sufficient, and you should also not
fsml2: Hello! I have recently insulated my garage and in connection with this built an interior ceiling/attic. I don't plan on storing any really heavy items in the attic, but I still think it would be interesting to get an idea of how much it might hold. Is it possible to make an estimation of this, or is there anyone with a similar construction who can share their experiences? The construction is* - 7
jonaserik: It's probably not a good idea to build on the floor and then raise. If the wall is to be permanent, then it's OK to screw it into the floor and ceiling. It's probably best to attach a stud to the floor and use a plumb line for the top, marking it. Maybe get some help to hold the stud to the ceiling and brace a couple of studs between the floor and ceiling. Or after the stud on the ceiling is
Karl-Ove Qvarfordt: Having difficulty seeing the difference between using it against berg or singel, you should use plastic against wood.
Nygge72: [citat] That's exactly how I think. It's important to work in a way that time is on your side. You don't want to do such a big project yourself and have too much time pressure on you.
fräsigkärra: Yes, that might be enough. I would prefer to leave it as it is to avoid piercing a roof with the risk of leakage. However, the roof is steep, 44 degrees. Thank you for your response!
Oldboy: As usual, it depends... You could wait and just observe and document this winter, preferably for an entire year. Then you'll see how big the problem is. How often and how much it splashes up, and how long it takes to dry up. However, I don't know what to compare it with, i.e., where a boundary might be between leaving it as it is or actually taking action.
Thomas59: [citat] Nice to be able to help. Unfortunately, the standard advice at consumer hardware stores is Molly plug, which is often the least suitable fastener, creates ugly holes in the wall, difficult to remove, and tricky to apply if you don't have the technique/Molly pliers. Have a nice weekend.
Nygge72: [citat] Okay. I first thought of using a nail gun but switched to screws 😁 Maybe I'll reconsider then 😁
MathiasS: It looks like you have a layer of masonite with paint on it and then a fiberboard called tretex underneath. Personally, I would tear away this mess and install drywall on the walls instead. Maybe some insulation depending on the circumstances. You also need to frame the window on the inside. Trying to use some sort of filler sounds like a slapdash solution that will never be good or even
Stefan N: You don't do it like that, remove it and then you have to make sure the floor has the correct load-bearing capacity (flytspackel), then put foil with upturn against the wall. If it's a concrete floor, slightly different rules apply.
plan-g: [citat] Ok. Did you install with an air gap behind the panel?
Düsseldorff: EPDM is very non-porous but flexible and therefore difficult to glue. You should thoroughly research which adhesives work for your application, otherwise it will just come loose over time.
Solmyr: You're right, interesting thoughts and not entirely unlikely. That's probably how it was when it was built as well, i.e., more humid in the room since it also acted as a food cellar. One thing I'm really uncertain about is if I now take the "shortcut" and repair the spots, should I use a harder mortar first and then a layer of softer one? I'm thinking if I start with c-mortar and then go over it
mickeforsberg: Did you come to a solution on the ceiling?
fahlis: Looks like self-supporting truss roof trusses from the 1950-70s model, taken directly from the National Housing Board's drawing collection "Trätakstolar till mindre bostadshus" ...
Kapsyl: Another option is wood fiber insulation. If it is an old summer cottage where there are mice, it is definitely an option as they do not like the fire retardant.
oscarabc: [citat] Great, thanks for the good tips! I'll check this out.
människa: [citat] Ok! But do you prime the entire chimney or just over the soot?
Dr Benz: Thank you. Exactly, that's how it is. It was just that we had seen teak windows that were lighter, more towards the oak-like side, and that's what we were aiming for.
Nygge72: But if you are going to have a west coast board on the outside, should this sill insulation also cover it? Or is it enough to just place it on a protection for mice, for example, and the sill insulation only covers the sill?
BirgitS: Back then, it was probably very unusual to have insulated slabs in basements. However, a previous owner might have broken up the slab, insulated it, and poured new concrete, of course. Houses built on well-drained and dry ground, such as the top of a hill, have fewer moisture problems than houses situated low on clay soil. Wallpaper is relatively cheap, so it's not the end of the world if it