Building Materials and Construction Technology
Byggabroar: Thank you for the feedback with the description of your process. I have now acquired fiber cement boards and will screw them directly onto the floor joists and tape the seams. I’m thinking the same as you regarding the vapor barrier. Probably won't bother with it. Regarding the underfloor heating, we will very rarely/almost never have it on in these particular rooms since they are bedrooms, but
and007: Hello, I tried to edit my question that I posted yesterday but wasn't able to do it, so here's a new one with a poll. Just click on the option you think is correct and we'll see if we can arrive at the right answer that way :). I am replacing some broken steps and wonder if anyone knows how the granite stone we currently have is made. Is it flamed, bush-hammered, or raw-split? It's not easy to
xLnT: http://fsbsverige.se/dokument/6%20Konstruktionslösningar.pdf
KristoSig: [citat] Thanks! Yes, that's what I was thinking, just wasn't clear on the dimensions. Glulam 90x315x6000 mm costs about 1700 SEK at Byggmax, it's actually not that bad. The question is if I can find a trolley that can handle a 315 mm high beam, but in the worst case, I can create "shelves" with 45x95 mm outside the glulam beam and mount the trolley there.
torparavgrund: Why not simply use lime mortar? Both my local Beijer and XLBygg have different variants, and Bauhaus comes up as the first option when I google. Hornbach probably has it too; as a German chain, they are likely to have good stuff for this, lime plaster is much, much more common down on the continent. I have used both the air lime mortar Weber cal 142 and the harder hydraulic lime mortar Weber cal
Rickard.: Why did I think it was a garage? Oh well, it's neither the first nor the last time I'm wrong:) Stacking 2 studs on their edges can become prone to tipping, so it might be something you need to address, but otherwise, it will probably work.
olofh: [citat] Interesting consideration! It could certainly turn out great, but I probably wouldn't start by ordering windows. You might need a building permit, which is based on construction drawings among other things. How high will the window section be if you need a beam above to support the roof? And how should the opening be made? Who will do it, etc. That's where I would continue my
AndersS: Would be if it is klentimmer they are sawn from.................
Cold Gin: Hi. I'm in the process of renovating a room. The existing built-in closet from '68 will be torn out. When I've almost completely removed it, I see there are no studs. The wall panel in the adjoining room is nailed into the back of the closet and partially comes loose when I pull the closet away. So there's a bit of a gap at waist height now next to the other room. My solution, I'm thinking, is to
Enklassiker: @holetaker did you end up with a grill area? I'm thinking along similar lines as you. :)
Joakim_79: Hey! Here's some feedback: I cut the OSB board about 12mm from the floor, reached the diffusion barrier/plastic and laid a bead of Platon Fogmassa (butyl sealant) between the concrete and the plastic. It turned out tight and seems to work well; it's not worse than before anyway, and now the OSB boards are not on the floor either... so now it's just about continuing with the Platon floor and then
MathiasS: Normally, you wouldn't place a partition wall on parquet that is likely floating on the floor, as this restricts the movement of the floor. If it has to be done, it's usually fine to use double-sided tape between the floor and the frame.
Jeppes96: There is conduit in the chimney today, so the heat is probably not an issue, the thing is we have opened up to the ridge, and in the attic, the chimney is 45mm wider and has a plastered surface compared to the lower floor, and this is only on one side of the chimney where it is wider.
slacker: Can't find it at your local hardware stores? Are you near Fjollträsk? Panel och List has saved me a couple of times when it comes to older moldings that don't meet today's standards. Good luck!
Hammare&Spik: [citat] Thanks for the tips! I'll try today, Cool with the tower :)
Matti_75: If it is SKB you have cast, it is true that you should not sand when it is soft, but you should use an ABS sander the next day. In your case, you should sand with a diamond grinder if you don't want to use filler.
EmilÖrn: Similar situation due to wall demolition and I have repaired large damages like this in a 1930s house with the same material it once was - lime mortar. Using the same mortar is probably not a bad idea in old houses, I think. It's messy but cheap, and after a little practice, it's quite possible to apply the mortar (it should be "thrown on"!). Scrape off with a board, etc. (read up on how to do
öringen: Will two 25x70mm boards laid on top of each other be as stable as one 50x70mm plank is the simple question, right?
Nylagat: Hi! I'm curious about how it all turned out? I'm sitting with a prefabricated house from '62 and am interested in raising the roof and building an additional floor.
Husfrömmar: Thanks for the response. It's the smell that intruded that triggered the sense of unease. I thought there was a bit of a lack of information about the health aspect. I'm still considering painting all the edges in hopes of getting rid of the smell. [citat]
Björn Danielsson: As an ambitious amateur, I plaster 1-2 square meters per hour. However, faster with rough plastering.
Huddingebo: I'm going to lay down 110 drainage with fabric inside. Even though the ground is bone-dry and mostly consists of gravel and sand. Is it mostly platon that's usually used? Or are there alternatives?
fb35523: Unfortunately, I don't understand what the question is about. Are you planning to have double gypsum and in addition to that a 27 mm grid panel, or do you mean that you will use the grid panel as a framework to attach the gypsum to? A box for double gypsum is often around 50 mm deep, so it needs up to 25 mm space behind the gypsum boards, which means it fits if you have a 27 mm grid panel as a
Boebs: Hi! I was going to fix cracks in the ceiling and found the concrete under a layer. Now I've scraped away all the paint and fell in love with it, so now I would like to keep it, sand it nicely, and maybe apply some lacquer. I think it would look really nice! Does anyone have any tips on what I should/can do? Thankful for any responses!
myrstack: If you're just going to fix the corner, plaster with light concrete pieces is probably the easiest way forward. I think you'll have to do it in two rounds, though. One round where you fill in some and fill out larger holes with light concrete pieces, and then a round where you actually plaster up the corner again. If in the first round you get far enough to put a corner strip for the second
Tagg: Hello I have a wall in my basement made from some type of skalblock. I now wish to make an opening in it to install a wine cooler. The opening should be about 1m high and about 0.7m wide. So I need to somehow support the wall, remove the blocks in the opening, and install a beam to take the load. I'm eager to do this myself and would like to hear if anyone can give me a good description of how to