Construction shed+deck on the roof.

[Novisfixaren]

You've been working hard, I see, and it looks good. Option 2, I think, is the best regarding the stairs, and you will see it yourself over time. Option 3 might work, but definitely not number 1. Now to the fence: If you fit the beams between the posts, it's best, in my opinion, to attach the slats on the outside of the posts; otherwise, it looks odd since the slats will partially cover the posts or sometimes not at all. Do this: Place slats over the posts and at the edges. Place slats in the middle of the sections. Place slats in the middle of the new sections. If necessary, repeat the procedure. Now you've got fairly small distances to place the rest of the slats, which is easy to divide so that there are nice, even distances. It doesn't matter much if the gaps differ by a few millimeters. Funny detail in the picture that the man is buttoning his fly, must have been "powdering his nose," I laugh, wondering when the opening party will take place.

Oops, the man in the picture wasn't meant to be included.

 

[Novisfixaren]

The inside of the shed is finished with fine plaster.

Do you think it's necessary to paint the plastered walls inside? Or can the plaster be left as it is?

Roof trusses, sub-roof, posts, etc. are bare wood, and I wasn't planning to put energy into painting them since it's just a shed.

But I'm unsure if the plaster should be painted...?
From a moisture perspective, bare plaster should be best, completely diffusion open, right?

 

[Oldboy]

The color is just decoration.

 

[Novisfixaren]

I need to revive this thread because a few years ago I had a project to cast an uninsulated slab and build walls with 20cm lightweight concrete blocks as described in this thread.

My problem is that I now plan to use the space as a gym. Insulating the inner ceiling is quite easy between the ceiling joists since they are spaced at 60 cm.

But I need help and suggestions on how to think about insulating the walls and preferably also the concrete slab. I understand that framing a wooden structure directly inside the lightweight concrete blocks is not recommended. Can one frame 10 cm away from the lightweight concrete walls on the inside?

2 of the walls are adjacent to other buildings, so these don't really need additional insulation.

Can I lay 100mm foam board and then floating floorboards to insulate the floor? I'm not keen on pouring new concrete throughout the entire building again...

All ideas and suggestions are welcome thank you.

 

[Oldboy]

Can you build 10 cm away from the lightweight concrete walls indoors?

An air gap is not recommended. Moisture and mold thrive there. All insulation should be on the outside of stone and concrete to function moisture-wise. However, it is often a bit challenging on existing buildings, especially under the slab, but unfortunately, there are no shortcuts for a reliably sustainable result.

However, there are risky constructions that sometimes seem to work. When it comes to flooring, it is emphasized how important it is to keep the slab and any moisture barrier, as well as the insulation under a floating chipboard floor completely clinically clean from dirt, including footprints. This approach should reasonably also be applicable to wall insulation.

Perhaps the risk can be reduced by using a dehumidifier and lowering the RH so low that it doesn’t get too damp against the cold surfaces. I believe there are tables/diagrams where you can see how low the RH needs to be. But, one must then know what temperatures will prevail against the slab and walls.

However, there are two safe alternatives to avoid mold traps and poor health:
1) Rethink and train somewhere else.
2) Take on higher heating costs and do not insulate.

 

[Novisfixaren]

Air gap is not recommended. That's where moisture and mold thrive. All insulation should be on the outside of stone and concrete to function in terms of moisture. However, it is often a little tricky on existing buildings, especially under the slab, but unfortunately, there are no shortcuts to a safe and sustainable result.

However, there are risk constructions that sometimes seem to work. When it comes to floors, it is emphasized how important it is to keep the slab and any moisture barrier, and of course, the insulation under a floating chipboard floor completely clinically clean from dirt, including shoe prints. This approach should reasonably also be applicable to wall insulation.

Perhaps the risk can be reduced by using a dehumidifier and lowering RH so that it doesn't become too damp against the cold surfaces. There are tables/diagrams I believe where one can see how low RH needs to be. But, then one needs to know the temperatures that will prevail against the slab and walls.

However, there are two safe alternatives to avoid mold traps and poor health:
1) Rethink and train elsewhere.
2) Accept a higher heating cost and don’t insulate.

Do you mean then only to insulate the ceiling where there is 200mm stone wool?

Could one consider insulating the walls with 10cm foam and then building a new row of leca blocks outside?

 

[Oldboy]

You mean in that case only insulate in the ceiling where there goes 200mm rock wool?

Yes, it is appropriate if it is to be heated.

Is it possible to consider insulating the walls with 10cm cellplast and then build a new row of leca blocks outside?

Yes, it should in principle become like those "plus-blocks" or whatever they are called. Also here, it is probably an advantage, although perhaps not extremely vital, to try to minimize any air pockets. The wall needs to be plastered on the inside to become airtight.

 

[Novisfixaren]

Yes, it's appropriate if it needs to be heated.


Yes, it should theoretically be like those "plus-blocks" or whatever they're called. Even here, it's probably beneficial, albeit perhaps not crucial, to try to minimize any air pockets. The wall needs to be plastered on the inside to become airtight.

You can lay 10cm of cell plastic on the existing floor and cast a new slab on top, but I don't know if you would say it's economically justifiable?

If you consider an air-air heat pump and the area is 90 sqm, ceiling height about 240cm, walls 20cm Leca currently plastered on both sides. 200mm insulation in the ceiling. 0 insulation in the floor, is it a disaster to heat it to 16 degrees?

2 walls border adjacent buildings and are insulated, so only two walls that need to be insulated/masonry, but I don't know if it's worth the effort?

On the floor, a rubber mat made from recycled tires about 1cm thick will be laid, I think it at least breaks the thermal bridge from the concrete somewhat perhaps?

 

[Oldboy]

You could place 10cm of foam insulation on the existing floor and cast a new slab on top, but I'm not sure if you would say it's justifiable economically?

It depends on how you value it, and whether you do it yourself or hire it out. If done properly, it is reasonably a benefit that lasts a long time.

Other considerations are reasonable, but unfortunately very difficult to answer.
You must know how much thermal energy is lost, and compare it with a better-insulated alternative, where cost and labor effort must also be evaluated (+ any risk of structural issues).
Of course, heat losses are reduced with additional insulation of the walls, but as often seems to be the case with ordinary houses, it doesn't make as big a difference as one might think. Ventilation is often the largest single expenditure in the heating bill nowadays.

A thick, well moisture-permeable carpet makes a big difference on cold floors. Compact rubber probably conducts heat/cold fairly well.

In a gym, it's perfectly fine/suitable to use training shoes (and full clothing) so then a cool floor isn't so critical.

 

[tlundberg]

Could one equate the space with an uninsulated basement? In that case, Isover at least thinks it's fine to insulate with their wool and use steel studs.

https://www.isover.se/isolera-kallarvagg-inifran