Hello
I am in the process of building a new house and have become completely confused about the underfloor heating on my upper floor. I have purchased plates for installation in batten panels through my plumber. I plan to lay a 14mm parquet.
Now to my problem, some claim that you can lay the floor directly on the batten, some say that you absolutely must have a gypsum or particle board on top, some say you should have a board under the batten.
My carpenter has never laid batten in a floor for underfloor heating and therefore asks me if I can find out how we should proceed.
Termeco, who sold the underfloor heating, says that if you lay the underfloor heating directly on the batten, then the flooring seller and my carpenter need to do a flooring calculation?? The carpenter did not know what a flooring calculation was.
The flooring seller said that it is up to the underfloor heating supplier to decide what is required on top of the underfloor heating for the floor to be good.
Personally, I think there should be some thinner board over the batten to provide support and evenness for laying the floor.
Anyone have any tips on how I should proceed? Or should I simply switch to grooved particle board?
I am in the process of building a new house and have become completely confused about the underfloor heating on my upper floor. I have purchased plates for installation in batten panels through my plumber. I plan to lay a 14mm parquet.
Now to my problem, some claim that you can lay the floor directly on the batten, some say that you absolutely must have a gypsum or particle board on top, some say you should have a board under the batten.
My carpenter has never laid batten in a floor for underfloor heating and therefore asks me if I can find out how we should proceed.
Termeco, who sold the underfloor heating, says that if you lay the underfloor heating directly on the batten, then the flooring seller and my carpenter need to do a flooring calculation?? The carpenter did not know what a flooring calculation was.
The flooring seller said that it is up to the underfloor heating supplier to decide what is required on top of the underfloor heating for the floor to be good.
Personally, I think there should be some thinner board over the batten to provide support and evenness for laying the floor.
Anyone have any tips on how I should proceed? Or should I simply switch to grooved particle board?
I don't think 14 mm parquet is enough, really check if it can be laid on sparse. A good alternative is to lay 22mm chipboard on top of sparse and underfloor heating, then you can lay whatever floor you want afterwards.
If you have space (building height) then using tracked panels is simple; I have used both chipboard and polystyrene with tracks for the pipes.
In both cases, I then laid laminate flooring directly on the panels.
When I (without underfloor heating) have laid floors without floor chipboard, etc. it has been at least 22 mm thick, 14 mm on sparse sound like quite a weak construction to me.
In terms of heat, it would probably work if only the floor can withstand underfloor heating.
In both cases, I then laid laminate flooring directly on the panels.
When I (without underfloor heating) have laid floors without floor chipboard, etc. it has been at least 22 mm thick, 14 mm on sparse sound like quite a weak construction to me.
In terms of heat, it would probably work if only the floor can withstand underfloor heating.
Hello. I laid spaced panels with metal sheets and planned to lay 14 mm parquet directly on top of it, but it turned out that the metal sheet creaked quite a bit when it moved up and down. So I placed flooring gypsum on top to keep everything in place. It involved quite a bit of screwing and drawing lines where the pipes were. Fortunately, I had gotten a screw machine. The floor turned out to be completely rigid and without any creaks, although the flooring gypsum was a bit costly, it was worth it. So my advice is to lay some material on top for both load-bearing capacity and possibly sound.
As already stated above, check with the manufacturer of the floor what they recommend. In my case, it was sparse 28x120mm.
I think laying chipboard on top of the loops is directly unsuitable from a heat conduction standpoint.
Otherwise, you can do a little bit of everything.
For example, I had issues with floor flex and therefore placed plywood UNDER the sparse boards, which I then glued and screwed down. It became incredibly rigid and also had the advantage that mice couldn't reach the loops.
I had squeaking from one or two plates in the beginning, but it disappeared after a while when the floor settled.
I think laying chipboard on top of the loops is directly unsuitable from a heat conduction standpoint.
Otherwise, you can do a little bit of everything.
For example, I had issues with floor flex and therefore placed plywood UNDER the sparse boards, which I then glued and screwed down. It became incredibly rigid and also had the advantage that mice couldn't reach the loops.
I had squeaking from one or two plates in the beginning, but it disappeared after a while when the floor settled.
Agree that it feels strange to put 22 mm chipboard on top. Then there should be age-resistant plastic before laying foam or lummpapp.
I think I've decided now..
Parquet 14mm
Lummpapp
Plastic
Sheet 13mm gypsum or chipboard (screwed)
Sparse panel 22x95 with 2mm gap (three sparse between each hose i.e. hose cc300)
Joists 220x45 cc600
For the bathroom, I change the sheet to 22mm chipboard and the joists are cc300
Should I have 13mm chipboard or 13mm gypsum under the parquet? Should I use glue or fix? Or just screw?
Parquet 14mm
Lummpapp
Plastic
Sheet 13mm gypsum or chipboard (screwed)
Sparse panel 22x95 with 2mm gap (three sparse between each hose i.e. hose cc300)
Joists 220x45 cc600
For the bathroom, I change the sheet to 22mm chipboard and the joists are cc300
Should I have 13mm chipboard or 13mm gypsum under the parquet? Should I use glue or fix? Or just screw?
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bjojo78,
Just like you, I'm about to install underfloor heating in an intermediate floor. Wondering why there is plastic between the board and the felt paper? I've considered using plastic but at the same time I'm worried that potential moisture that ends up in the intermediate floor (i.e., essentially from the floor below) will get trapped and can't be ventilated out. But I have no idea if I'm thinking correctly.
Just like you, I'm about to install underfloor heating in an intermediate floor. Wondering why there is plastic between the board and the felt paper? I've considered using plastic but at the same time I'm worried that potential moisture that ends up in the intermediate floor (i.e., essentially from the floor below) will get trapped and can't be ventilated out. But I have no idea if I'm thinking correctly.
I don't understand why so many people place foam or "skum" as some write, between the underfloor heating loops and the parquet. Foam insulates and thus deteriorates the heat conduction up through the floor and into the room.
What I have heard and read is that between the loops' metal plate and the parquet, only "lumpapp" and possibly plastic (if it doesn't exist further down in the construction) are applicable, otherwise, the underfloor heating function will be worse.
What I have heard and read is that between the loops' metal plate and the parquet, only "lumpapp" and possibly plastic (if it doesn't exist further down in the construction) are applicable, otherwise, the underfloor heating function will be worse.
If you install sparse battens and then lay the plates with the coil, it is enough with felt paper and then 14-15 mm parquet across the battens. You have a foil over the plaster ceiling on the lower floor that is sufficiently tight, so no plastic under the parquet upstairs.
I laid 22x95 on 600cc joists, heat plate and 20mm pipe, then 22mm chipboard glued and screwed, then 15mm parquet (180x1800 ash plank). No plastic, just foam.
It didn't turn out well. The underfloor heating is very sluggish. I have to have a fairly high temperature on the water for it to feel at all. Then the floor started to crack and buckle due to moisture differences.
It didn't turn out well. The underfloor heating is very sluggish. I have to have a fairly high temperature on the water for it to feel at all. Then the floor started to crack and buckle due to moisture differences.