Building Materials and Construction Technology
mrmosse: Ok, nice! What dimensions were the stringers that were cut with a laser? Which company did you use for that? Expensive?
SnickeNicke: Nicely done, submit a report when you have everything up to the correct level.
jonaserik: L-profiles are in the 90-degree module, and they are attached to each other. To achieve something in the corner, the left one is placed snug against the right one, edge to edge with the outer sides. With the existing angle, it will be tight between the elements. The fastening parts then need to be bent at the same angle to pull the elements together. With such an assembly, there will be 100%
jonaserik: The carriage piece probably stands firmly on the float and cannot be lifted. Some parts are in the air and others might be attached to the wall. The part in the air usually can be lifted slightly, but the one on the wall is probably firm; normally, the floor is laid before the staircase, so it stands on the finished floor. The options are to build it into the floor or cut it off; it may be
Bo arnold: My room is in entirely homemade design with custom-ordered window sections from Expodul due to the fact that they are 2.4 m high and not available in standard. Your construction is more of a winter garden, but if you're going to have insulation with an air gap in the roof, perhaps the option with the rafters over the roof beam gives more space.
Johan Gunverth: Looks like a well-made staircase. Risers may be needed to prevent the treads from flexing and starting to creak. The inner curve's attachment is far too narrow to manage without a riser. Replace/renovate the stair nose with something wood-colored and replace the synthetic carpet with natural-colored sisal. It matches the well-made handrail and brick wall. Some warmth in the colors is needed.
Vantemann: Hi, thank you for your responses. I realize that the lighting is too poor and have tried to find angles for better light, but I'm not really getting any better quality pictures. It could be due to dirt on the lens as well, which makes it difficult for me to produce better images. Anyway, it is some form of wood material. A Google search for Treetex gives a pretty good description of what it looks
Onsalakorven: [citat] Raising this question, same situation! What is the best alternative?
KnockOnWood: How deep is the plaster layer? You probably should have had a longer screw and plug that reached the brick layer.
Derbyboy: Thinking of connecting a JD 320. https://josefdavidssons.se/produkt/vedspisar/jd-320/ However, I'm trying to figure out if I need to report the replacement to the municipality. I don't get any good answers. I suspect that if I turn to the municipality, they will out of sheer routine make me submit a report and pay 3850 SEK.
FrippeFlyer: [citat] Hi David. Yes, I've been considering sigmabalk, but from what I've seen in a previous thread, it can be quite costly. (Of course, it depends on the beam's load-bearing capacity and design...) A previous user received a quote of 900 SEK per beam and that two were needed per joist. That adds up quickly... :) Best regards /Fredrik
Tubes: This is a useful page https://www.energiberakning.se/U_medel/U_medel.aspx
Bältesclip: [citat] In that case, it's a done deal 100%.
Wibos: I live in a house built in 1946 with an uninsulated slab and a ceiling height in the basement of 210cm. The basement is really rough, and I'm considering refreshing it, including digging out the floor to embed heating coils. Therefore, I've gathered all available drawings to see if it's possible, and the only ones of value are below. Is there anyone knowledgeable who can help me interpret this
Matti_75: It is a shaft that must withstand Ei60. It is meant to protect the apartment from catching fire for 60 minutes if a fire starts on the floors below. The fire would then enter the pipes and the shaft should prevent it from spreading to the apartment in question. It is permitted to have sewage pipes in the same shaft if they are made of non-combustible material. Yours appear to be made of cast
Elmy: [citat] Thanks! No, we don't need to seal it. I just wondered if it should be like that or if it needed sealing, as it were. Thanks for the help ☺️
Bemi: Hello, I eventually came to the same reasoning myself, but since it got a bit too tight in the hallway, we have decided not to have a door there. Thank you for your response.
oddan: Hello, I'm going to attempt building a custom cabinet (cleaning cabinet/wardrobe) in a small room in my apartment and would need some advice regarding the approach. I've never tried anything like this before, but I'm quite handy and enjoy planning and executing projects like this. Below, you can see a picture/sketch I've made of approximately how I want it to look, just so you understand what I'm
Pucco: There is this type for recessed hidden joining of furniture. https://www.banggood.com/Drillpro-4-8-or-5-9-or-6-10mm-Twist-Step-Drill-Bit-For-Woodworking-Manual-Pocket-Hole-Drill-p-1391844.html?cur_warehouse=CN&ID=563343&rmmds=category
jonaserik: Minerit is a cement board; drill a hole that is the size of the core of the screw (this is the part that is between the threads) you are going to use and tighten it by hand in the board, it will hold. If you don't drill beforehand, the screw will crack and splinter. In the minerit, small pieces will come off the front and back.
justusandersson: The easiest way is probably to let the air gaps run horizontally from gable to gable. The pressure differences should be able to handle the ventilation. Attach masonite to the inside of the rafters and quite substantial air gaps will result.
justusandersson: The normal practice is that the plank is as wide as the plank frame. Its both ends are recessed into the surrounding standing planks. All older carpenters know how to do this.
Nick_se: [citat] Why does it need to be fastened with the front parts of the balcony? We have a patio with a roof that goes all the way from the ceiling. Just think about the right slope.
Hammare&Spik: [citat] Good point! We've lived in the house for about 8 months. The lady who lived here said her husband drained it about 40+ years ago. At the back of the house, there's a smaller hill that I assume sometimes brings some water down towards the house. About 15-20m away. The inspector said that the house stands on a sand base and that it's good! According to him, it's self-draining and that's
Stoffisen: [citat] Thanks for the quick response! Well, the geothermal heating goes through the floor and out through the skirting boards. Never seen anything like it :) So mounted the plasterboard as per the picture in the other room
Pånytt: [citat] Got help with the measurement and was only informed that it was in a good range and that there was no moisture beyond what is considered okay, for example, if one were to paint outside. Excuse my lack of knowledge in this area, but it felt good☺️
Ekliptikan: This smaller wall was likely a pantry or something when the property was built in the 50s. Now it needs to be removed to make room for a new kitchen. The wall is made of the stone/gravel material that interior walls were built with before, is it called lightweight concrete? Feels mostly like gravel... How do I dismantle it in the easiest way not to damage the "real" wall behind? I want a clean
Tomture61: If the trusses on the large roof lose contact with the hammer beam because another roof is being built at a 90-degree angle, what should support what? The trusses of the large roof must be bridged with a beam + trusses that support this must be reinforced (doubled). The attachment for the trusses of the small roof must have wooden beams at the height of the valleys.