Building Materials and Construction Technology
Mazen: Drill with a dowel/forstner bit in the appropriate size and remove any corners with a chisel. https://www.biltema.se/verktyg/borr/traborr/cylinderborr-2000016848 (I'm assuming you mean a handle like this one.) https://www.byggmax.se/luckhandtag-habo-1129-krom-p7210136?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiYLC4-L37QIV0QJ7Ch0H_gVLEAQYAiABEgJaafD_BwE
Farkan13: [citat] Thank you, yes I have built everything out of MDF, except for the cabinet frames which are melamine. [citat] Thank you! The wall behind is recently plastered, so I chose to paint the bookshelf in the same color as the plaster, thus I have no back panels on the bookshelf. [citat] Thank you very much, it's an ordinary wooden wall behind the bookshelf, so I just drilled a suitable hole
jansen: Ok, thank you very much for your help! I will have a carpenter perform the work when it's time.
Hojte: Just drive long screws (y),
justusandersson: It depends on how handy you are. It works well with columns in glulam or steel. It also works well with construction timber, e.g. 45x145 C 24, if you can fasten it properly in the weak direction.
TeknikStefan: The unit will be demand-controlled in a superior system with triggers for humidity/temp/CO2. But yes, you're right. Not all parts of the workshop construction will be economically justifiable ;)
fredj721: Hello, I have a pool house that became moisture-proof, but not "airtight" just before autumn hit. It has been left cold for a few weeks now, and the weather has been quite humid. I had planned to insulate and work inside during the colder months, but I'm considering how to handle heating. Given the rather humid air, there is some accumulated construction moisture in the house, so how should I
jansen: Hello! I am planning to make the opening between the living room and the kitchen larger. The current opening is 1800mm and I would like to open it to 2400-2500mm. I live in a Nordkalott house (in Norrland) built in 1980. The wall itself is built with double 45x70 studs at 60cc. Span 8000mm. What I am wondering is whether the wall is load-bearing and what size beam I need in that case. Regards
talonmas: Tips for future DIY enthusiasts who have metal studs: A simple fridge magnet is a very cheap and easy stud finder :)
Grizzlybjörnen123: I have 170 mm Paroc stone wool. Since I don't have a floor drain in the garage, I built the entire thing on 195x195x590 mm leca blocks.
Williamkarl: Hello! I've been googling around a bit, and the algorithms are leading me to the wrong stuff. So I apologize if this topic has already been discussed. Well, I have been a bit unconventional and bought electrical outlets that require a backbox according to English standards. That is, they are rectangular. All the walls in the apartment are made of plaster and brick. I would like to try doing this
Cpt_NoPants: I was at Bauhaus and saw that they had oak shelves in a rustic style with uncut edges. I'm very tempted to use them both for kitchen shelves and possibly a coffee table, but I'm a little concerned about the moisture content and the risk of them warping over time. Has anyone had the chance to try them and can share their experiences? https://www.bauhaus.se/hyllplan-ek-med-bark-26x360-400x2000
13th Marine: I have not tried lättbetongskruv. But when I've had trouble getting the plug to attach in a stone material hole, I've often filled it with husfix and then pressed the plug in. Let it harden and insert the screw.
Bybe: [citat] Great! Now I have some options. Thanks for the help :)
Marijairena: [citat] Ideally, I just want tiles up to the cabinets and the fan, and then a painted surface above, but I'll have to think about it some more. The area isn't very large behind the fan. Otherwise, I'm afraid a fully tiled wall might create a somewhat "chaotic" appearance. Of course, it depends on how the kitchen looks otherwise. But I could be wrong. It's probably easier to tile all the way up.
justusandersson: Hello Olle and welcome to the Byggahus forum! Unfortunately, it won't be a good staircase with those conditions. The maximum length of the staircase is too short to provide good step proportions and incline with the given height measurement. The staircase length along the walking line would need to be 3.2 meters. It's best if you can show a floor plan for the lower level and a section through the
olofh: Glulam 66x315 is often in stock. I have considered using it for stringers.
J Vos: https://www.denbraven.com/en/products/technologies/fillers/zwaluw-plasterboard-filler/
Stuff: [citat] I have Regular Render Mortar C from byggmax on my basement walls and it has stayed put for 7-8 years. I made sure to wet the existing render thoroughly beforehand to give the new render a good adhesion. Then I rehydrated the render a day after to prevent it from drying too quickly and cracking.
KVS630: Hello, I have the same question. I am going to build a garage against a mexitegel wall. However, it will probably be completely freestanding, but I plan to keep the mexitegel wall as part of it since otherwise it would be too much work to tear down the brick. But what should be considered and how do you handle ventilation and drainage in the wall when it becomes warm?
Snappahaneklanen: The expectations for the final result somewhat determine which method is best. I don't think it's such a good idea to buy a whole beam, both because it's more expensive than necessary and a beam is quite heavy, requiring either posts to be built to lay it on or something sturdy to screw it into. If you want it to be a smooth and nice box, I believe studs and gypsum are the way to go. It's also
wawerider: [citat] You can buy ready-made corners in 2.5-meter lengths that you can cut with scissors and then moisten with water so the glue on the back makes it stick until you plaster over the perforation or screw it in place, or similar. That's what I did, and it was easy as pie. I'm a newbie in construction, so maybe there are even simpler things to use. Regards
Nikorasu: [citat] No, I absolutely don't think so. Screw/nail with double screws/nails at 60cm intervals. It will hold for all types of paneling I know of.
Plutus: Pure guess, measure the weight of one, then place it in water for a day and measure the weight again when it is dry on the surface.
justusandersson: How does one convey over fifty years of accumulated knowledge and experience? Tips are welcome. The truth is that there are probably no absolute rules. On a reinforcement drawing, load-bearing walls should be depicted, but it is not always accurate. Half-brick walls are usually not load-bearing, but you can't rely on that. If a concrete slab is laid over several walls, there is always top
AskeHolst: [citat] There is a deflection, about 1.5 cm, but a bit hard to see precisely as the beam does not have exact measurements. Sure, it is possible to replace it, we installed a HE-B 160 in another room (which does not have a bathroom above), so I know how, but it's simpler and cheaper if it is not necessary. [bild]
OlssoniVallby: [citat] I don't think you need to worry about moisture. It depends a bit on the floor, of course. There shouldn't be any moisture coming from the toilet. In that case, it's the connection to the exterior wall, but if you have the drywall connect to the lightweight concrete, it's no problem. If you want to be sure and put a bit more energy into it, and save some thickness, you can set the steel