Building Materials and Construction Technology
pajson: Hello, My basement is divided - half is just a basement and the other half is a small studio apartment that I have rented out (souterrain house). I'm now thinking of tiling the laundry room. One long side is underground, the opposite side faces the apartment, and the two short sides both have doors leading to other rooms in the basement. The whole space is relatively dry, the old plaster is in
henche: Does it matter if you install waterborne floor heating "in the middle of" a radiator circuit that then continues to other radiators? I'm interested in doing something similar in our hall at some point in the future but probably keeping the radiator as well. I understand that a shunt and pump are needed (anything more or less?).
AWWENATION: [citat] Considering that wallpaper glue functions like water and sugar, they do not block moisture. Wallpaper glue contains binders like Pvac, which do not bind the moisture in the wall.
Mats-S: Hello! There are many ways to do this. Personally, I much prefer working with steel studs because they are always straight and never warped. Additionally, it's easier to attach them to walls, floors, and ceilings. I found some links on the principle of building a wall with steel studs: https://www.byggmax.se/bygga-innervägg-med-stålreglar https://www.hornbach.se/projekt/montera-stalreglar/
Derbyboy: Hello, I am going to install a floor drain with a straight outlet. The outlet goes down into the crawl space. floor drain with straight outlet 70mm straight pipe about 20 cm 90-degree bend (down in the crawl space) The middle section (70 mm straight pipe) will not be able to be secured. I will secure the floor drain and the 90-bend according to the proper methods. I'm considering taping the
SethL: [citat] Hello Yes, it is completely flat today. Thanks, I'll google sheets to see how it can look. :) It sounds like a simpler alternative.
prunila: [citat] Big thanks! Exactly what I needed.
Krilleman: There is a huge difference between Byggmax in Eskilstuna and Byggmax in Västerås. I will not set foot in the store in Eskilstuna again. The staff is extremely rude and does everything except their job. Smoking always comes first is their slogan. Always empty at the checkout the last times I've been there with unnecessary waiting. Byggmax Västerås, on the other hand, is miles ahead in their
Tovin: Ok! Then it feels unnecessary to buy nailscrew when it works just as well with maskinspik (y)
mxjolle: Some time ago I found a good comparison between different disc materials, but apparently impossible to find now. Does anyone know? That is, what is the difference between building board and tretex? Both are wood fiber boards, right? The Tretex factory seemed to have closed down at the turn of the year 1970/1971 https://sv.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Treetex With that said, it seems that we have board
hordak: Haha, no, the response frequency was a bit sparse :) The solution was fastening with 4 pcs 8x240 mm screws through the rafters closest to the facade. Drilled the holes slightly larger (10 mm) and filled with Tec7. The stand flashing on the roof got a substantial seal, also there with Tec7. Not convinced it should be the permanent solution, but it has stayed watertight so far.
justusandersson: It is flattering to be mentioned in such fine company. I don't dare to have an opinion without having seen a more comprehensive picture. It might be good to know that most barns, despite looking like homemade constructions, often have real templates in the form of type drawings.
lundgren91: Hello! We are planning to install an insert fireplace or whatever they are called here and considering having glass on two sides. The curved surface in the picture we were thinking of knocking down and then building it back up with masonry from floor to ceiling to make it more modern. I'm wondering how to do it or if you need some corner support to hold everything together when you are building
Jonas12456: Hello! I thought I would provide an update on this matter and take the opportunity to ask for some advice from you knowledgeable folks here on the forum. The construction company has now agreed to address this. What they want to do is "jack up" any possible settling that has occurred and brace under the column from the crawl space below. However, I'm getting cold feet and don't know if I want
rbrakhya: We are planning to convert the built-in garage into living space and need to eliminate the slope on the garage floor. There is no drain, and everything slopes towards the old door. The area is 18m2 and the height difference is about 5cm. On the old cast floor, a layer about 3cm thick of some kind of "ugly concrete" has been applied, which crumbles very easily. It seems to come off easily. Since
Ingola: We have an uninsulated wooden storage shed that we want to convert into a sunroom with glass doors and windows facing south. The house has settled, and the floor is not level. Can the floor be lifted and reinforced with piers to make it level? We plan to have interior boards. Should we use a wind barrier or another material in between?
hapazard: [citat] Yes, that's probably wrong. But, it also says it doesn't fully cure, so it may be that it sticks and adheres even before it dries.
TechChad: If it unexpectedly can't be forced, you can carve out the backside of the strip, down to where the bend is. It won't be visible in the final result.
justusandersson: It is fine to use glulam beams or a similar material (kertobalkar/masonitbalkar) with the correct dimensions considering snow load and span. A support leg in the lower section can reduce the dimensions. It depends on how the section looks.
Karlsson85: I have an almost impossible project ahead of me.. I'm planning to tidy up the stairwell down to the basement and was thinking of insulating and covering the stairs above. I've been trying to figure out how to do this in the best way but have hit a dead end. One side of the stairs has stringers that the ceiling panel could be attached to, but the other side has nothing to attach to and I can't see
AXS: [citat] I agree, I prefer essve when it comes to the bag. I have it lying in the workshop and take screws or a box from the bag. The screw is good, no problems at all. Also bought tarpaulin and joist hangers.
lob: I agree with JAsnabbe, but I use these screws if I'm going to hang something really heavy. [bild] Otherwise, a regular screw and plug. I start with a small drill and then the "right" dimension. Unfortunately, in my basement, they've used both sparsten and reinforced quite densely, so drilling THROUGH the wall is a real lottery.....
Mazen: Drill with a dowel/forstner bit in the appropriate size and remove any corners with a chisel. https://www.biltema.se/verktyg/borr/traborr/cylinderborr-2000016848 (I'm assuming you mean a handle like this one.) https://www.byggmax.se/luckhandtag-habo-1129-krom-p7210136?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiYLC4-L37QIV0QJ7Ch0H_gVLEAQYAiABEgJaafD_BwE
Farkan13: [citat] Thank you, yes I have built everything out of MDF, except for the cabinet frames which are melamine. [citat] Thank you! The wall behind is recently plastered, so I chose to paint the bookshelf in the same color as the plaster, thus I have no back panels on the bookshelf. [citat] Thank you very much, it's an ordinary wooden wall behind the bookshelf, so I just drilled a suitable hole
jansen: Ok, thank you very much for your help! I will have a carpenter perform the work when it's time.