Building Materials and Construction Technology
Lund: [citat] [citat] Thanks for your input, I'll try something like that and see if I can succeed.
justusandersson: If you need to apply for a building permit, drawings and possibly construction calculations are required. A carpenter normally does not have the competence for that. If you buy from Willabgarden, you get correct drawing documentation. The alternative is to hire an architect and then contract the job as a small construction project according to all the rules of the art.
Sesulo: Completely novice but... I assume the tar is to counteract ground moisture from below and should perhaps be replaced with a modern solution (platon). Then there is some debate about underfloor heating on an uninsulated slab (cellplast) as you can get reverse moisture migration during certain seasons. The safest thing is probably to break it up and completely redo the slab.
fb35523: I actually have no knowledge in U-value calculation, but I have used my math skills from college and a bit of basic skill in using formula collections. The U-value for a complete construction, e.g., a wall, can be calculated like this: U=1/(sum of all R), R=d/λ, U=1/(d1/λ1+d2/λ2+...+dn/λn) Please verify the above with your own formulas. You should be able to derive this quite easily. I assume
AndersS: See it as if you've gained an experience. I now value my time versus material cost more, which has meant for me being more careful with material selection. Also, sometimes it means allowing for a bit of extra waste to achieve a good final result.
Stuff: [citat] It might be good to delve into the standard of the rest of the building. If it's an older building, it might very well have been built according to lower standards than today's new constructions. There's no reason to have a much higher level of this measure than what exists on the current dividing walls between apartments. Is the interior wall built just as it was before, apart from
justusandersson: Yes, until around 1950, most small houses were built with planks in all walls. Exception: masonry houses (not just facade bricks).
Panelmannen: No sorry, the comment was supposed to be in another thread, thought I would have time to delete it..
TheCed: [citat] should perhaps add that it is frame compartments today where I have put in insulation.
Mats-S: [citat] But what the hell, that's a violation of the heritage listing, can you do that? :crysmile::crysmile::rofl::rofl: But now you have a good dinner party story about why we carpenters installed so many brown moldings in the 70s/80s:cool:
justusandersson: It looks a bit sloppy. Logically, the column should have been either as wide as the "beam" or considerably wider. Otherwise, it's hard to comment without more info. Is the beam glue-screwed? What is the height dimension? How long is it? Does it only have a middle support? Is it a factory-made glulam column?
justusandersson: An exterior photo of the roof can be very enlightening as well. Most "carpenters" usually lack the expertise to determine that type of issue.
mrmosse: Ok, nice! What dimensions were the stringers that were cut with a laser? Which company did you use for that? Expensive?
SnickeNicke: Nicely done, submit a report when you have everything up to the correct level.
jonaserik: L-profiles are in the 90-degree module, and they are attached to each other. To achieve something in the corner, the left one is placed snug against the right one, edge to edge with the outer sides. With the existing angle, it will be tight between the elements. The fastening parts then need to be bent at the same angle to pull the elements together. With such an assembly, there will be 100%
jonaserik: The carriage piece probably stands firmly on the float and cannot be lifted. Some parts are in the air and others might be attached to the wall. The part in the air usually can be lifted slightly, but the one on the wall is probably firm; normally, the floor is laid before the staircase, so it stands on the finished floor. The options are to build it into the floor or cut it off; it may be
Bo arnold: My room is in entirely homemade design with custom-ordered window sections from Expodul due to the fact that they are 2.4 m high and not available in standard. Your construction is more of a winter garden, but if you're going to have insulation with an air gap in the roof, perhaps the option with the rafters over the roof beam gives more space.
Johan Gunverth: Looks like a well-made staircase. Risers may be needed to prevent the treads from flexing and starting to creak. The inner curve's attachment is far too narrow to manage without a riser. Replace/renovate the stair nose with something wood-colored and replace the synthetic carpet with natural-colored sisal. It matches the well-made handrail and brick wall. Some warmth in the colors is needed.
Vantemann: Hi, thank you for your responses. I realize that the lighting is too poor and have tried to find angles for better light, but I'm not really getting any better quality pictures. It could be due to dirt on the lens as well, which makes it difficult for me to produce better images. Anyway, it is some form of wood material. A Google search for Treetex gives a pretty good description of what it looks
Onsalakorven: [citat] Raising this question, same situation! What is the best alternative?
KnockOnWood: How deep is the plaster layer? You probably should have had a longer screw and plug that reached the brick layer.
Derbyboy: Thinking of connecting a JD 320. https://josefdavidssons.se/produkt/vedspisar/jd-320/ However, I'm trying to figure out if I need to report the replacement to the municipality. I don't get any good answers. I suspect that if I turn to the municipality, they will out of sheer routine make me submit a report and pay 3850 SEK.
FrippeFlyer: [citat] Hi David. Yes, I've been considering sigmabalk, but from what I've seen in a previous thread, it can be quite costly. (Of course, it depends on the beam's load-bearing capacity and design...) A previous user received a quote of 900 SEK per beam and that two were needed per joist. That adds up quickly... :) Best regards /Fredrik
Tubes: This is a useful page https://www.energiberakning.se/U_medel/U_medel.aspx
Bältesclip: [citat] In that case, it's a done deal 100%.
Wibos: I live in a house built in 1946 with an uninsulated slab and a ceiling height in the basement of 210cm. The basement is really rough, and I'm considering refreshing it, including digging out the floor to embed heating coils. Therefore, I've gathered all available drawings to see if it's possible, and the only ones of value are below. Is there anyone knowledgeable who can help me interpret this