Building Materials and Construction Technology
ErikB89: [citat] Hey! How did it go with the stairs? Moving into the new house soon, considering something similar with the stairs there.
Nygge72: Hello, I don't know if this question is in the right place, otherwise feel free to suggest where it should be. I'm a bit curious to hear how large an area a typical concrete mixer (120-160L) can handle smoothly. Are we only talking about casting plinths, or does it work well even for something like a slab for a garage? I have no idea about either the amount or how quickly you need to work (if you
Hep: No concrete answers, but maybe a little help anyway. I am almost done with our kitchen renovation in a much older house than yours. Timber frame with walls, floors, and ceilings that are completely without right angles and also pleasantly wavy in all possible directions. The ceiling height varies by more than 5 cm between the corners. Instead of making the whole room "right" and both losing some
Ohver: Thank you for the answer! Yes, the exterior is sealed; there is nothing close to the facade. It is vertical paneling, so there should be good air circulation.
Mathilda Ö: Hello! I'm wondering if you've made any progress on this issue, maybe even finished building? I'm planning to do a similar build, a Tiny House measuring 10x3m that will first be built on stilts and then transported by truck after a year or so. I would be very grateful for a response, Mathilda Östman
Pumabjörnen: I should add that the metal strip can usually be bought by the meter so you obviously don't need to buy 25 m.
Mortsken: The boards are indeed attached to the stairs, and they continue upwards to form the wall on the upper floor. Then I assume they are attached to the wall to the right of the window, and they are also set in the beams in the ceiling/floor on the upper floor.
Cerb: Had to enlarge a hole a bit extra for it to fit. Annoying when it was sooo close to the hole pattern being perfect. Oh well, at least it's up. [bild]
Firro: [citat] Thanks! I googled an image now and understand what you mean :)
tergo: trim or molding or latex, PAINT SEALANT ESSVE ACRYLIC FLEX 25% 300 ML (bauhaus.se)
Freddan122: [citat] haha I saw that when I sent the message. It's a wallpapered plaster wall, but there should be studs behind it. I was thinking of something like this: https://www.bauhaus.se/inomhuspanel-moelven-livlig-gra-furu-13x120x2400mm#go-to-related
Bamboozled: You’ve probably thought about it already, but if you tear down the old roof, you'll likely have to fix a new layer that the insulation and similar materials rest on. In that case - will it have a different density? Breathe less? It's worth considering, depending on what the intermediate floor looks like. During demolition, it might be difficult not to damage the battens needed to attach the new
stalf: Have no problem saving half a pelare, for example, if that's the purpose. The upper and lower vagnstyckena are screwed into the pelaren from opposite sides. They are also screwed into each other. In the corner, it's hard to see, but the upper one seems to rest on the lower one in some way. Then there are 2-3 screws in each vagnstycke that are attached to the wall.
justusandersson: Counting backwards, you can see that a HEA 100 beam replacing a load-bearing wall in your house should not have a span longer than about 2.4 meters. With the help of the floor plan, you should be able to determine approximately where the beams (and columns) are located. The only uncertainty concerns the distance between the chimney and the gable wall.
Vza: So, we are not renovating the bathroom to avoid the radiator. We want to change the appearance of the bathroom, make it bigger, and therefore maybe switch to underfloor heating.
KnockOnWood: [citat] Already the opening text in the video makes me shudder! "Create a concrete feel in a wooden table" Concrete feel? :worried::dizzy::cry:
Atell: I'm considering converting the garage and installing a larger door, like a folding or swing door. However, as it stands now, two rafters need to be removed to gain more headroom in the garage (to accommodate a caravan or something taller than a low car). Can this be done without the entire structure collapsing? Is it enough to install additional reinforcements higher up to hold the trusses
Mats-S: Don't think you can find it, but try threading on a larger nut, it should work. To prevent it from unthreading, you can hit the end of the screw.
MattZak: Okay, feeling a bit silly now that I discovered there's actually a stud right where I'm supposed to mount the TV :sweat: (used the magnet trick mentioned above as it was very hard to hear when tapping). So the problem solved itself! :D But thanks for all the tips, I'm sure they'll be needed in the future.
LAB: [citat] Well-graded means that the gravel contains all size fractions in such proportions that there is minimal void space. Normally, the mortar becomes strongest then, especially if it contains cement, but if you use that type of gravel and increase the amount of lime, the gravel grains don't contact each other, and when the lime dries, it shrinks and cracks form. If the gravel is more
byron v2: Would guess that solid steel beams last at least 80 years. Probably longer. Cast iron pipes for buried sewage often last 70 years plus
Mats-S: [citat] Exactly, but the joists (which are built on the modules for the ground floor) also play an important role in stability, so that the roof doesn't "implode." But the pros might have a solution for that too ;-)
xLnT: [citat] It will probably be leca after all; there's a first time for everything. Do you reinforce blocks as thin as 150mm? I assume it's just a reinforcing steel then? The chimney sweep thought Leca was better than lightweight concrete too. I need to check with a structural engineer if the leca can handle the weight and the displacement required.
Viktor.J: [citat] as mentioned, if you're worried, you might as well climb up to the attic, clean up a bit, work your way down to the under-roof, and lay out something that distributes the weight.
Koorosh: Hello! I need help with the calculation of construction drawings and someone to sign off on my K-drawings. Can someone help me? Best regards, Koorosh
PetterSwahn: We are in the process of completely renovating a house from 1940 with a basement and two floors. The existing wall construction consists of paneling, standing plank 70mm, an air gap of about 20mm, horizontal roof boards, and masonite. We have drained and insulated the basement from the outside, we will additionally insulate the facade with Västkustskiva during the panel replacement, and the
FrippeFlyer: [citat] Hey... I understand...time flies. :) Thanks a lot anyway. Regards /F
Derbyboy: Really a surge of ideas :) The new plan is now to lay 12mm particle board to reach the same level as the reflektaskivorna. The reflektaskivorna are 12.5 mm to be exact. There shouldn't be any issue with a 0.5 mm difference between the areas, right?
Sittställning: [citat] Awww! Then I'm wrong, right! Can't you say 600 instead?