Building Materials and Construction Technology
Eli.G: Hello! I'm in the process of renovating a house and have more or less torn out everything to rebuild from scratch (it's a catalog house from '83 that no one loved and where smoking indoors had occurred). It's now an open plan with a ceiling open to the ridge, over 3 meters high. I want to install a wood stove in the center of the house with the chimney next to the ridge and plan to build a
justusandersson: Quite common in 1930s houses, especially if there is a garage in the basement. You should not use any construction plastic since the basement should be considered heated.
Snickarkirre: Common or not, but you can do that if you want to avoid cold drafts through the sill and wall plate. It's a matter of taste whether you want to go with horizontal or vertical first. It doesn't really matter. But if you start with horizontal, you can adjust at the sill and wall plate, and then when you go vertical, you can go all the way up and down with the studs. You just need to place noggings
svuntrik: Then I will replace the existing with that. I think I will keep the existing standing studs in 38x118 that come down from the ridge now, so they will remain in that dimension. Many thanks for the sketch and for taking the time to calculate this!
LjLindgren: Hello. I have a beginner's question. I've torn down fiberglass weave in the family room, and of course, the plaster came down with it. Finding a mason who has time to take on the job is as difficult as finding a unicorn. So. I thought I'd build a new interior wall instead. These are two walls that are "exterior walls" which I intend to do this way. I was thinking of using steel studs since it's
Lars RA: Hello. I have a son in Australia who is going to build a house. There's a lot to consider. He has now asked me if I know if HEBEL façade elements are good. From what I understand, it's an Australian product claiming to have energy-saving advantages, but it might be sold internationally. Do you have any experience with these? This link goes to the company's product:
prototypen: If it is to be truly supporting, there must also be vertical reinforcement; otherwise, the beam cracks horizontally, creating a top and bottom half. Now I think this is becoming an exaggeration; it will probably be built upon, and that construction supports itself, so the beam is almost only needed during the masonry work. Protte
fribygg: If you're building for yourself, I claim that raw pine boards are still cheaper and better than OSB despite price increases, with raw pine boards still being
BSOD: 40-year-old risk construction. It's hard to find anything there in terms of hidden defects. 16-17% moisture content is roughly the threshold for when it starts to be a risk for problems. You don't replace a sill just because it's damp. But it might be a good idea to bring in a construction expert to assess the situation.
raveper: Unless you believe the whole house will fall apart if you don't do anything about it, then it's probably safe to build it in.
Farendag: [citat] I didn't know that existed, definitely an option! Thanks!!
Anders243: If it isn't constantly humid there, I would recommend plaster. It is easy to apply in thick layers.
mickeforsberg: The local construction company came here and made a hole. It turned out well! The reinforcement consisted of steel wire, more or less. So the question is… what's the best way to attach a spiral duct vertically? :thinking:
En apelsin: [citat] Agreed. That way, it becomes much easier if you or someone else in the future wants to change the layout.
Luddis_1: I had tested chemical wood filler in order to then sand and repaint the board.
Chris61: [citat] We solved the problem with a bent sheet metal at the opening windows. The sheet goes up under the ridge plate. Here you can see it. [bild]
torbjorn2000: We have a wall from the 30s that seems to consist of stone blocks and render/mortar. Due to roots and frost damage, the render has fallen off and it's time to repair it. The question is, what type of mortar should be used? It doesn't have to look nice, and I assume it will crack again unless there is proper drainage behind (it's a retaining wall) and the trees with roots are removed. There seems
Yrrol: Checked out Hornbach for products that look right and found; * Base paper PROTEGO YEP 2500 15x0.20m - TEmballage Used as an insulating layer between the foundation and the sill. Polymer bitumen (PmB). Foundation insulating paper is an elastic, nailable sealing layer built on a strong polyester felt with high tear resistance that is coated with SBS-polymerized bitumen. The top and bottom sides are
treborh: Yes, that's how I interpreted it too, so there were a lot of holes in that plastic, and now the new ceiling is up :). By the way, it's crazy that a lot of (very) flammable material was left in the intermediate floor during constructions earlier (I've heard from a carpenter I know that it's a bit better now).
Jiji: [citat] Are there holes in the masonite, or what do you mean by bad condition? If it's masonite, you can fill and sand, it will be fine. Wipe with some form of paint cleaner and paint. Paint the filled areas first, then two coats of paint on everything. Two coats are usually enough if you prime the filled areas first. But in the worst case, you may have to apply a third coat. Now, I assume you
Allmänobildad: Yes, you can do that! Then the single small floor piece is attached to the groove, and the threshold is attached to it without locking the rest of the floor.
Wallawhoa: [citat] Thanks! I hoped it would be enough with a profile in the corner, but it might be tricky
mojjen: Watching Vancouver's video clips (Quite a lot of good tips), he mixes filler himself, and compared to what's in my buckets, it's quite runny. Is it possible to thin regular Lättspackel a bit? It doesn't feel wrong to work with. Isn't it quite unusual to mix yourself in Sweden? I usually mix joint compound to fill slightly larger seams and repairs, but otherwise, I always go with a bucket. The
Leif i Skåne: [citat] Buy pre-primed steel beams! The beams are sandblasted and then primed at the factory; the paint is rustproof, and you can weld through the paint without any issues.
Mathias Elmfeldt: [citat] Thanks for the great tips. I dared to cut the trim while it was still attached. Used a magnet and found three trim screws which I carved out - so I didn't even need a crowbar, and the wall was preserved.
Olofolofolof: Thanks for the great post. The old beams do not sag but are not completely straight. Not the best picture. There's only gravel, no concrete under/between the beams.
Dowser4711: Well, often commercial buildings are constructed with steel, and it's quite feasible to keep them insulated, etc. Usually, it's due to large spans or complex shapes, but of course, you might also do it out of snickar-förakt. :)
yehor: I will install metal studs that will end where the wooden studs are currently cut (they will be removed). They will hang about 30-40 centimeters without being attached to anything. How can I arrange that? I prefer not to use the wall since the ceiling should be floating, and preferably not from the floor above as it may cause problems in the future. **EDIT** I see now that I have a poor title. I
Emil Karlsson: Have the same. Also had to "special order" from the nearest sawmill. Couldn't find such panel to buy, despite quite thorough searches.
Limträpappan: [citat] The designer and I guessed it would be 240 mm brick, it's still a very solid interior wall. So it's two IPE 160 side by side bolted together. Then you should be able to lift them by hand to the 2nd floor. A neighbor was relieving the load-bearing wall when they built a staircase. The whole street was blocked off, and a crane brought in a 3 dm wide monster beam weighing 3/4 ton... I don't