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Heavy-duty hinges for outbuilding door.
Hobby electrician
· E
· 15 400 posts
Depends on what style it should be, if you look at Lantmännen and similar places, it's not difficult to find something strong.
Here, find something and place 3 pieces on each part, 20 cm from the bottom and 20 cm from the top + 1 piece approximately 50 cm below the top one. What is difficult and important is to prevent the gate from sagging in its own construction; it tends to sag on the lock side. However, it can be done quite well with a wire in line with the top hinge and down diagonally to the lower corner, with a turnbuckle that can be adjusted over time if needed. Simply trying to adjust it diagonally with lumber is doomed to fail without a wire. The best is with a welded frame and a wire.
https://www.byggmax.se/hakgångjärn-...qsEAaN0Hiil-NArfKIPh9RoCNvEQAvD_BwE#973=47775
https://www.byggmax.se/hakgångjärn-...qsEAaN0Hiil-NArfKIPh9RoCNvEQAvD_BwE#973=47775
It's becoming relevant for me now to arrange an adjustment with wire and turnbuckle. I think I understand what you mean.. I THINK.. Do you have a picture of a wire and turnbuckle installation?J jonaserik said:Here, find something and place 3 on each part, 20 cm from the bottom and 20 cm from the top + 1 approximately 50 cm below the upper one. The difficult and important thing is to ensure the gate does not sag in its own construction, it tends to sag on the lock side. However, it can be done quite well with a wire level with the top hinge and down diagonally to the lower corner, using a turnbuckle that can be adjusted as needed. Simply trying to angle with timber is doomed to fail without a wire. The best is with a welded frame and a wire.
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With a larger door and strap hinges, it will always sag under its own weight, regardless of the naren meant to stabilize it; a nar should run from the lower hinge diagonally up to the upper corner. It usually doesn't turn out well anyway, so a wire with a turnbuckle pulled diagonally with attachment at the top hinge and down is a way to hold back the forces that will occur; it is essential that the wire's attachment is really firm so that these don't bend or come loose. A so-called eye bolt (welded loop) with large washers and nuts on both sides usually holds. It might be good to tighten an extra centimeter on the wire initially to make the door want to tip up, and then adjust more precisely later. Eye bolt like this but with a welded loop, otherwise a simple sketch, should attach wire to my doors, they are 2.5 high and 2 wide and are starting to sag a little now.
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