After attempting to install doors and windows with frame sleeves today, I want to share my limited experience.
ESSVE states that you should never use anything other than 38 mm for heavy installations like exterior doors.
Unfortunately, the frame thickness, at least in my doors, is about 30 mm, and with a 4 mm pressure equalization washer, there's not much room left to screw out the sleeve.
Thus, it sticks out of the frame on the inside.
It's frustrating when in December you take time off to get the stuff in while it's daylight, but it fails due to the material.
I'm writing this so that potential Googlers can find information about frame sleeves and the length of the frame sleeve. And indeed the thickness of the frame. I had doors and windows under tarp and plastic and couldn't easily check the thickness of the frame.
The windows have much thicker frames.
ESSVE states that you should never use anything other than 38 mm for heavy installations like exterior doors.
Unfortunately, the frame thickness, at least in my doors, is about 30 mm, and with a 4 mm pressure equalization washer, there's not much room left to screw out the sleeve.
Thus, it sticks out of the frame on the inside.
It's frustrating when in December you take time off to get the stuff in while it's daylight, but it fails due to the material.
I'm writing this so that potential Googlers can find information about frame sleeves and the length of the frame sleeve. And indeed the thickness of the frame. I had doors and windows under tarp and plastic and couldn't easily check the thickness of the frame.
The windows have much thicker frames.
The gap is too small. Frame screws also come in different lengths on the part that is in the frame as far as I know, so it wouldn't have helped.
If I had only bought 28 mm, this wouldn't have happened, but it would have been compromising the load-bearing capacity.
If I had only bought 28 mm, this wouldn't have happened, but it would have been compromising the load-bearing capacity.
Now I have read several assembly instructions and haven't seen anywhere that you should use 38mm for something like an exterior door, but I have skimmed through so I might have missed it...
It depends on the gap you have between the frame and the wall that determines the sleeve length and if you need washers, as I have understood it anyway.
It depends on the gap you have between the frame and the wall that determines the sleeve length and if you need washers, as I have understood it anyway.
Yes absolutely, but maybe you don't know that when you're in the store buying the stuff. It is the manufacturer ESSVE that prescribes 38 mm sleeves for heavy doors.nino said:
Okay that's good information. I think I can manage.T tergo said:
Installed a set of double doors today in lightweight concrete walls. Made a lot of beginner mistakes since the instructions don't explain why you do certain steps.
For example, why should I place the door on blocks or wedges? Then the threshold hangs in the air. It ends up being just wedges under it and no insulation if it is to remain reasonably stable (aluminum).
Then the door leaves weigh about 80 kg each, you can't stand there and fumble with them open before screwing the frame into the wall.
And then you're done for with lightweight concrete, as I found out when I was adjusting everything.
The screws strip the lightweight concrete very quickly when adjusting the frame sleeves.
What can be done now that there are stripped holes where the screws should be?
The screws I had were 120 mm long with a 10 mm head.
Probably hard to find a 200 screw with that head.
I didn't use plugs since I had lightweight concrete screws that grip directly into the substrate. However, they couldn't handle any readjustment, so now I'll use narrow plugs that go through the hole in the frame sleeve.
As you say, nino, you want the threshold to be level, but isn't it OK to just place it on the slab if it's level? As a novice, one would have wanted to know that blocking and shimming should only be done if necessary.
As you say, nino, you want the threshold to be level, but isn't it OK to just place it on the slab if it's level? As a novice, one would have wanted to know that blocking and shimming should only be done if necessary.
Sure, it's possible to cut them down, it's a minimal amount of work if you're first going to thread 50 sleeves and estimate their correct positions, then remove about half a dozen frames and turn and mark which one should be which. Or just cut all to 33 mm.
The thing is that 38 mm is prescribed by ESSVE and as a layman, you can't anticipate buying one of every length you MIGHT need.
The thing is that 38 mm is prescribed by ESSVE and as a layman, you can't anticipate buying one of every length you MIGHT need.
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· Korpilombolo
· 3 723 posts
Check out Adjufix.
Essve requires at least a 15mm sleeve in the frame regardless of joint width.B bellman83 said:
If you use a 10mm hex in the drill, it's quick to screw in and out where you need to adjust; you can cut the sleeves with any machine, it probably takes 5 seconds with a multi-tool.
You should be able to figure out that you can't have 38mm for the smallest joint widths and narrowest frames.
I use the longer sleeve everywhere, and where it has become too long, I just trim it. Very uncomplicated.