Building Materials and Construction Technology
Bokani: [citat] [citat] [citat] Uncertain about support for the ceiling, the list in the living room that I removed was only 3 cm wide and 0.5 thick. [bild]
PH72: Old thread that one can still stumble upon apparently. There are now good videos on YT explaining how to do it: 4 variants of soundproofing wall: [MEDIA=youtube]GLjhrXFo0Kw[/MEDIA] Green glue - to have between the plasterboards: [MEDIA=youtube]UO_NowMgPdY[/MEDIA]
zana kader: Hello. There were no load-bearing walls. Just for your information.
Micro: Fold the signs into an upside-down V and hang them over the edge of the container. A clear advantage is to make them from thin metal and then stick some paper with text on them.
S_B_O: I have a room where drywall will meet chipboard and particle board on the walls at long seams. Is it an idea to plaster these seams with paper tape in the same way as between drywall panels? I then plan to apply renovation wallpaper over it.
GoofyGoof: Hello! We are going to fix up a room in the basement (it is drained, with an insulated slab and underfloor heating, etc., so opinions on rooms in the basement are not welcome). The room is about 5m long and 3m wide, two walls are brick exterior walls, one wall is a brick wall, and the last wall needs to be built to separate from a "corridor." My options are either to build an interior wall with
Matti_75: It is okay to glue if the adhesive is approved for this. Ordinary tile adhesive won't work. We usually fasten with a bolt gun, but you can also screw it directly into the steel. Alternatively, use steel profiles and screw as usual.
Jonatan79: Everything is possible. Start by checking if a building permit is needed.
Kongokongo: Hello I've probably scoured the forum and the internet when it comes to the question of a good base for tiling/mosaic as a countertop for an outdoor kitchen. The frame is very stable and currently consists of decking wood as the countertop (leftover from patio building). I thought the forum, which teaches me a lot every day, might have some ideas here. Initially, I thought of using a Cembrit
Derbyboy: True, but this particular roofer had one of those lasers, so he promised to fix the hole even through the inner roof!
Mazen: The baseboards are easiest to place on top of the panel, and then you can fill all the gaps and paint ... Regarding the skurkloss, buy planed wood, e.g., 15mm if the baseboards are 12, the same there, mount and fill. If there is an inward slope due to the casing, it doesn’t matter much (a couple of tubes of, e.g., Biltema’s Multibond is recommended as it both glues and seals). Regarding the
Träkåk: Logical when you just get a little help along the way, thanks. The carpenter's statement that it was calm probably referred to the two rafters that were truncated on one side, not that these beams are unnecessary in any rafter. It's the opposing supports for the same rafters that already lack these on one side that are most troubling. Could limit the intervention to removing the vertical support
John*5: Place your brads at an angle and overlapping in a cross pattern, and they will hold much better against pulling forces.
preben89: Thanks for the great answer :)
Tomtom79: Sounds like there is a lot that can absorb the moisture so it can dry in peace and quiet afterwards. It's probably worse if it runs straight through and dissolves ceiling plaster or something else. So you probably don't need to worry too much about the moisture, more about if there's anything else that can be damaged. Any electronics or electrical boxes that might get filled with water, you might
fredagsdrinken: I just did the version with two spacer pieces and I think it turned out well! Here is a picture before caulking and painting, glued the small pieces with superglue. [bild]
Bowser: My thought is to.. will take this further.. thanks for the help and will update when I know more.
Robin Lindberg: [citat] I would use studs and go with OSB + plasterboard, so you don't have to think about hanging things on the wall. Alternatively, just plasterboard if desired. I would also think a bit extra about the placement of switches/buttons against the wall to see if it's optimal, maybe even consider if a stair switch is desired to turn on lighting, etc. It's worth bringing in an electrician if the
Krillehus: Hello! Does anyone know where you can buy black ceiling moldings? They need to be at least 30 mm. I don't want to paint myself or make any special order, but want to buy from someone who has it in their range and in stock for delivery.
JohanVSF: I'm going to raise my kitchen counter using 45x45 timbers. The timbers were acquired a couple of months ago and have been indoors since then. Naturally, they have now warped quite a bit. It doesn't matter much for the parts that won't be visible, but the parts that will be visible and need to be painted, etc., I of course want to sit as nicely as possible and not warp later. Is it worth
nino: You don't have to go all the way down, just below the chipboard's top edge.
justusandersson: Forget the support beam. These trusses don't require one.
Magnus Larsson: That kind of hobby plaster that you use to cast figures with that the kids paint on? It becomes rock-hard and not too sensitive to water
Karinsbostadsrätt: [citat] Thank you! It's not a lot of money, now it's mostly the principle. The craftsman came to fix mistakes and instead made things worse. ARN can blacklist companies. Plus, I've actually checked with a lawyer, the amount I want refunded is highly reasonable and I have consumer rights on my side. We'll see, I hope no other renovation novice like me, who hires a company to ensure competence,
MNilsson1: I am going to renovate my porch as the lower part is mainly rotten. Most of the roof will be kept, new bargeboards, etc. Priority 1 is the posts. I'm considering using a plumb line from the roof (where the current posts are) to see where the piers/post shoes will land. I will probably have to pour my own as the bedrock is very close. I have looked at a design where, among other things, two boards
Davion: [citat] Hello again. I looked around the wall a bit, but when I planned today to remove as much as possible, I discovered that there is a gap (see picture) at almost all boards to the beam in the ceiling, except for the board closest to the outer wall. Doesn't that also indicate minimal or nonexistent load?