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tergo: molly M5/52 should be able to fasten 28mm material thickness without changing screws
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useless
useless: I agree with previous writers. It is Treetex where they've puttied over imperfections.
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Karrock
Karrock: A simpler radon meter with a display allows you to quickly get an indication of whether there are elevated radon levels (and know if you need to budget for further measurement and possible actions). In advance, you can have tried handling in your current dwelling, outdoors, and so on. For example, like this one
10 replies · 9,6k views
Fasting65
Fasting65: [citat] It's probably not a bad idea to check the density of the insulation board. But in reality, it's probably not that simple. You should never focus solely on one property. If you find a board that is classified as "soundproof" by the manufacturers, it's likely good. A quick Google search found two variants as below Stone Wool Paroc Sonus:
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LHD Johnsson: Nail batten 22x45 I plan to remove that and install an 80mm insulation board. On top of that, 28x70 nail batten And the idea is if one can then install asvaboard
2 replies · 1,3k views
Anna_H
Anna_H: [citat] It only seems dense if you look at it sideways. If you look straight, it feels airy.
19 replies · 4,1k views
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Göran Gustafsson
Göran Gustafsson: Got a response today... no... I don't need a building permit, as long as the wall doesn't get higher. For example, red facing bricks, frost-resistant also don't require a building permit in my municipality. Thanks for your posts and your interest. Best regards, Göran
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HogeN
HogeN: [citat] That one is used when you're trimming away excess when gluing edge bands on melamine boards when you're making cabinets/shelves. And beveling the edges is something you don't think about once you've done it a few times... but cut the paper 1-4cm from the edge and then try to get an angle from the cut line to halfway down the gypsum edge... sort of.
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BirgitS
BirgitS: You need to contact a structural engineer who can calculate the specific loads in your case and what it means for the size of the beam and whether reinforcements are needed under the beam's endpoints to prevent future problems. Before you start, you need an approved building permit that includes dimensioning calculations etc.
1 reply · 1,6k views
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useless
useless: You should still apply a layer of putty before the tape, so that tiny hole will disappear automatically.
11 replies · 3,3k views
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Claes Sörmland
Claes Sörmland: Common rendering mortar type C, I would say.
1 reply · 1,2k views
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kanonkula: [citat] You build out the reveal so it extends onto the window.
1 reply · 911 views
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Snickarkirre: [citat] Okay, I get what you mean (y) as I said, this is always interesting!
6 replies · 3,9k views
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marcusjj: Still searching :crysmile: Does anyone know of any wood paneling available in 0500-N? It seems completely impossible to get a hold of. Other panels seem to be 0502-y.
1 reply · 1,1k views
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Kenhasse: [citat] How to think around wind loads, also designing a conservatory on Öland where it is very windy, perhaps a lesser issue with snow load here.
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lobbin: I have received requests for vertical paneling indoors in the small house we will build this summer. Do you install the insulation differently in that situation, or do you just add a horizontal nailing batten on top?
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gnemil: [citat] Thanks!
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@ndreas: [citat] The product they recommend is further down on the page you linked to. It should work well based on the needs you describe.
5 replies · 2,3k views
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Spindoctor: [citat] Thanks for the great input :D That sounds like a good option.
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justusandersson: Hard to evaluate, I think. Not really my area of expertise. As long as the cracks remain within the respective lamella, it might not be a disaster. They seem to be primarily at the upper edge of the beam, which is positive. When similar cracks appear in solid wood, it is often over-dimensioned constructions. I don't think it should happen with glulam. Glulam manufacturers naturally have
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Robert-san01: The crack growing might be frost weathering.
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justusandersson: Extremely unlikely that the current wall is load-bearing. In the absence of drawings, you can map out how the beams above run using a stud finder. Also, check if there is a header above the next doorway into the living room.
8 replies · 2,4k views
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Växthusvägen13
Växthusvägen13: [citat] no got quotes around 10,000 and felt like I couldn't manage it myself so haven't done anything
2 replies · 3,2k views
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Claes Sörmland
Claes Sörmland: Wipe clean with 20% Klorin in water and that should be good enough. The Klorin oxidizes the mold so that it's inactivated if there is any life present.
2 replies · 1,7k views
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Daniel 109: You feed in stone as you fill. You can fill in as much as you can get in without further ado.
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RichardRR: [citat] Do you have a picture to complement your description? I'm not quite getting it... Best regards, Richard
6 replies · 5,6k views
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scorp1on: There should be no problem unless the deck is under-dimensioned. If you want it verified with a calculation, a sketch of the construction as well as the timber dimensions of the support beam, floor joists, and their center distance is needed.
2 replies · 2,4k views
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Snickarkirre: If you're going to insulate and cast the floor, it will increase the height significantly, which means you'll lose some ceiling height. You'll also need to raise the front door and possibly other interior doors. It seems like more work, and judging by your picture, a nivell floor should end up at about the same height as you have now. If you go with nivell, it builds approximately 80mm including
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neo11: https://www.beijerbygg.se/privat/sv/produkter/byggmaterial/bindemedel-bruk/bruk/slackt-murkalk-e
3 replies · 5,5k views
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