Hello!
We have built a carport and now there has been black mold on the rough-hewn wood and also on the wind barrier and other places too.
The storage part is not finished and I have done nothing more than (from the outside) put up paneling, wind barrier T-base, and then the framework on the inside.
Had a company here today who said they would sand and apply chemicals in the storage section and only chemicals in the section where the cars are parked.
Once this is done, I will continue with the walls and ceiling and insulate, vapor barrier, narrow paneling, plywood boards, and drywall. In the ceiling, insulation, vapor barrier, and narrow paneling.
The question is, would you install ventilation in/out inside the storage section afterward? It will be heated, but only with a frost guard or small heater.
I will put ventilation grilles on each gable up by the ridge for ventilation. Do you think a mold stopper is also needed?
I have made an air gap in the eave but the mold man thought it was too narrow (about 1cm).
Should I take down the outermost board and cut anew for a larger gap or install mold stoppers or perhaps both?
Best regards,
Daniel
We have built a carport and now there has been black mold on the rough-hewn wood and also on the wind barrier and other places too.
The storage part is not finished and I have done nothing more than (from the outside) put up paneling, wind barrier T-base, and then the framework on the inside.
Had a company here today who said they would sand and apply chemicals in the storage section and only chemicals in the section where the cars are parked.
Once this is done, I will continue with the walls and ceiling and insulate, vapor barrier, narrow paneling, plywood boards, and drywall. In the ceiling, insulation, vapor barrier, and narrow paneling.
The question is, would you install ventilation in/out inside the storage section afterward? It will be heated, but only with a frost guard or small heater.
I will put ventilation grilles on each gable up by the ridge for ventilation. Do you think a mold stopper is also needed?
I have made an air gap in the eave but the mold man thought it was too narrow (about 1cm).
Should I take down the outermost board and cut anew for a larger gap or install mold stoppers or perhaps both?
Best regards,
Daniel
Hi!Oldboy said:
Drawings are a bit lacking. At least regarding what I'm writing about.
But yes, that's correct. What I'm most curious about concerns the storage section since it will be insulated.
I asked a construction company after writing this, and I'm apparently supposed to have a vapor retarder after the insulation towards the warm side. Then battens, plywood, and drywall. The battens are to give space for screws so they don't go into the vapor retarder.
But still a bit unsure about the ventilation, etc.
I've bought 2 ventilation grilles that I'm going to drill holes for and attach at each gable end this week.
My view is that eaves ventilation should not be overdone, so I probably wouldn't have done anything there.
Ventilation of cold spaces in general and garages/carports in particular is incredibly difficult to know what will work. They are simple buildings, so you can try different solutions. In this case, it also depends on how well-ventilated the carport itself is. They range from enclosed (like an unsealed and uninsulated garage) to completely open with just a canopy roof. Black mold on new timber is often due to the timber itself, not so much the environment. You can clearly see the difference: if it's the timber, some tongue-and-groove boards are more or less black while others right next to them are completely unaffected; if it's the environment, the black is evenly distributed as if it were sprayed with spray paint.
I would have wanted a vent in the storage building. Then you can adjust the ventilation as needed.
Ventilation of cold spaces in general and garages/carports in particular is incredibly difficult to know what will work. They are simple buildings, so you can try different solutions. In this case, it also depends on how well-ventilated the carport itself is. They range from enclosed (like an unsealed and uninsulated garage) to completely open with just a canopy roof. Black mold on new timber is often due to the timber itself, not so much the environment. You can clearly see the difference: if it's the timber, some tongue-and-groove boards are more or less black while others right next to them are completely unaffected; if it's the environment, the black is evenly distributed as if it were sprayed with spray paint.
I would have wanted a vent in the storage building. Then you can adjust the ventilation as needed.