Building Materials and Construction Technology
växelventil: Hi, I need some advice. As the picture shows, I'm considering filling a section with blasted rock and then laying 0-32, and the final layer 0-4, is that a bad idea? Because I have a lot of blasted rock, and it's for those L-supports that will be placed there as a corner and backfilled with morän.
Jerald Stuartson: It depends on the agreement you write. It concerns both the work environment responsibility and the product warranty. Regarding the load-bearing structure in the building, I would clearly specify the weight/load it must carry and then pass the responsibility to ensure this to the customer.
z_bumbi: A couple of joists in the middle to hold the frame together. Braces or a cross on the sides that are against walls. Guardrail is completely missing. Install one! Board depends on what and/or how many.
hscn: ="Jonte Karlsson, post: 4770535, member: 480076"]A non-load-bearing interior wall can be stabilizing for a load-bearing exterior wall.[/QUOTE] It depends on how old and crooked the house is. I have an old log house where parts of two exterior walls on the upper floor lean about seven centimeters from floor to ceiling, with a ceiling height of 203 cm. The previous owner had aligned the interior
pjkw: Put a double expander in the hole, use a wood screw for the rest. If you've only drilled through the plaster, you can indeed put a wood screw there as well, with or without filling depending on whether the console covers the hole.
tensiden: [citat] Temporary solution is perfectly fine. But would prefer to avoid polyurethane and other similar materials if possible.
ChrisCornell: [citat] Hi, It wore off over time, it went pretty quickly.
Jiji: What is the wall actually made of? I had used plaster on the small piece. But then I've rebuilt half a house with it too. :rofl:
Växthuslena: [citat] Thanks, I'll place the blocks towards the middle.
SnickareHobb: It should be able to work. I'll check with a sheet metal workshop to see if they can fix it. I thought there might be something ready to buy. :-)
Huggedugge1: Yes, that beam is quite a story in itself. :crysmile: I bought two 10.1m IPE beams, 10 cm high. When they arrived, they were sagging like worms between the boxes they were supposed to stand on. I don't think the seller really knew... Anyway, I had to hire a welding company to weld both beams together and then box them in with 3 mm corten steel. Then we attached wooden beams with 30cm centers
jonas889: Hello everyone! I would like some help on how to build a wall panel on an enclosed balcony. I don't have much knowledge about construction techniques or execution. The wall currently is just made of metal sheets (see pictures). Around it, there are metal studs. My question is really how should I proceed? Should I attach the panel directly to the metal studs, or should I do as in the sketch I drew
BirgitS: All wood absorbs moisture and swells when humidity is high and releases moisture and shrinks when humidity is low. This happens with all wood, even indoors.
Växthuslena: [citat] Oh, that doesn't sound good at all..
Dissonans: I have searched the forum, but only find how to reinforce the floor joists with the existing height. My opportunity is that I can raise the floor by 70 mm and I'm considering killing three birds with one stone, namely: 1) A chance to make the floor completely level 2) Achieve CC60 on the joists, on which I will glue and screw the floor chipboard 3) Reinforce the floor so it feels stiffer Hence my
Mats-S: [citat] The advantage of plyfa is that you get a wall on which you can easily attach pictures, hooks, and other various items, so I would probably choose plyfa on both sides of the studs. On the outside, you can replace the tretex with gypsum to get the same wall thickness.
Magnus Ar: [citat] What is on today is concrete glaze. Is glaze a good method for a concrete bench outdoors? If so, maybe I'll continue, but are there perhaps better alternatives? Beeswax? Oil? Lacquer?
Joel Sverneborn: Thank you very much for the quick response, can we then go entirely by row C when we read the moisture meter?
Niho86: [citat] I'm not too worried about the plaster absorbing water as it is a thin plaster type with low water permeability and high vapor permeability. The overhang is currently 45 cm and I want to shorten it to 25-30 cm, not remove it completely. I'm mostly hesitant because it's an additional work step once the existing roof is down, and I'm afraid the house will appear even more elongated.
raubtier: Went out and looked a bit more now and it will probably be too tight to screw towards the ends unfortunately, was misled by the fact that the footboard is a bit higher so it looks like there's more to screw into. So it will probably have to be option 3 or, as you say, laying them next to each other and screwing parallel. Or do you have any other tips since your renovation, if you found a better
Kurtivan: [citat] Silikat paint? Remove loose plaster, wet the surface, and apply new plaster such as Weber 135.
tergo: The ground board is made of non-combustible, moisture- and water-repellent ROCKWOOL stone wool. The ground board is a very stiff and hard board that is specially adapted for ground constructions, ground floors, and basement walls. Ground Board (rockwool.com)
BirgitS: [citat] The truss systems you have distribute the weight from the roof onto the outer walls so that no walls on the floor below are load-bearing. However, it is complicated to remove or alter one of them. I recommend hiring a structural engineer (www.sbr.se) who can assess the situation on-site to see what can be done and how the problem can be solved. Alterations to load-bearing structures
SueCia: My first renovation as a homeowner was tearing out a raised floor in the gillesstuga and replacing it with a nivellgolv. It was hard work but not difficult.
herregud: I'm planning to build a swing on the patio, almost like the picture below except I'll only have one crossbeam in the middle (at the top) for the swings. I initially considered using laminated wood 95x95 but then realized it might not be optimal for outdoors. Do you think a 95x95 regular treated beam could work? I was thinking that all the material should be 95x95 in the construction. Width 2.5m,