Hello, it's great that you're taking the whole journey with your own forest. It is a lot, but also really satisfying. You ask about how many logs you need. It is indeed the top measurement in each tree, i.e., the end with the smallest diameter, that determines how much timber they provide. You see each log end squared = it becomes good timber without edges. You have to decide on a few things, such as which frame you need, 45x145 mm is a common post, and 45x45 mm as horizontal possibly on the outside or also on the inside, I am now thinking only of vertical panels such as 120+120 mm cover panel, this may depend on how the house looks, many also use 145mm cover and 45 mm strip.
You ask about tables available online, search for "building with wood," the rule at cc 60 cm, which is the most common when building, e.g., garages. The formula is 1.67 linear meters per sqm. If a wall is 10 meters long and 250 cm high. 10 x 1.67 = 16.7 pieces + an extra at the beginning and possibly another extra at the end/corner = 19 pieces multiplied by wall height = 2.5 meters, then you get the amount in meters. For a 10-meter wall, you also need 10 meters of sill (bottom) + 20 meters of wall plate on the walls that will support the trusses; I usually don't make "wall plate" on the gables. A little extra length is needed on the timber you cut yourself for angle cutting, dry cracks, etc. + 15 - 20 cm extra is probably a pretty good measure. A finished wall that should be 250 cm, the dry finished beam is cut to 240 cm, but then you don't get a finished ceiling height of 250, just so you know. The ceiling is built downwards from the trusses, e.g., 35x70 mm ceiling joists plus 12.5 mm plasterboard almost makes 50 mm, which lowers the inner ceiling. The greatest joy with self-sawn timber is that you can plan and saw the timber lengths you need yourself. Good luck!
You ask about tables available online, search for "building with wood," the rule at cc 60 cm, which is the most common when building, e.g., garages. The formula is 1.67 linear meters per sqm. If a wall is 10 meters long and 250 cm high. 10 x 1.67 = 16.7 pieces + an extra at the beginning and possibly another extra at the end/corner = 19 pieces multiplied by wall height = 2.5 meters, then you get the amount in meters. For a 10-meter wall, you also need 10 meters of sill (bottom) + 20 meters of wall plate on the walls that will support the trusses; I usually don't make "wall plate" on the gables. A little extra length is needed on the timber you cut yourself for angle cutting, dry cracks, etc. + 15 - 20 cm extra is probably a pretty good measure. A finished wall that should be 250 cm, the dry finished beam is cut to 240 cm, but then you don't get a finished ceiling height of 250, just so you know. The ceiling is built downwards from the trusses, e.g., 35x70 mm ceiling joists plus 12.5 mm plasterboard almost makes 50 mm, which lowers the inner ceiling. The greatest joy with self-sawn timber is that you can plan and saw the timber lengths you need yourself. Good luck!
Hello, it's great that you're undertaking the whole process with your own forest. It's a lot of work but also really satisfying.
You’re asking about how many logs you need. It’s the top diameter of each tree, meaning the end with the smallest diameter that determines how much timber they yield. You’ll see each log end in a square shape, which results in good timber without any bark edge. You have to decide on a few things, like which frame you’ll have; 45x145 mm is quite a common post and 45x45 mm as horizontal, possibly on the outside or maybe even on the inside. I'm thinking now of only vertical paneling, like a 120+120 mm overlock panel; this depends on how the house looks. Many also have a 145 mm overlock and 45 mm strip.
You’re asking about tables; they’re available online, search for "building with wood." The rule for cc 60 cm, which is the most common when building, for instance, a garage, the formula is 1.67 running meters per square meter. If a wall is 10 meters long and 250 cm high.
10 x 1.67 = 16.7 pieces + an extra at the start and optionally an extra at the end/corner = 19 pieces, multiply by the wall height = 2.5 meters, then you get the quantity in meters.
For a 10 meter wall, you also need a 10 meter bottom sill + 20 meters of top beam for the walls that should support the rafters. I usually don’t make a "top beam" on gables.
You’ll need a bit of extra length on the timber you cut yourself for angled cutting, drying cracks, etc. + 15-20 cm extra is probably a fairly good measure. A finished wall that should be 250 cm, cut the dry finished rule to 240 cm, but then you won’t have a finished ceiling height of 250 cm, just so you know. The roof is built downwards from the rafters, like 35x70 mm roof joists plus 12.5 mm gypsum, almost 50 mm which lowers the inner ceiling. The greatest joy with self-sawn timber is that you can plan and cut the timber lengths you need yourself. Good luck!
You’re asking about how many logs you need. It’s the top diameter of each tree, meaning the end with the smallest diameter that determines how much timber they yield. You’ll see each log end in a square shape, which results in good timber without any bark edge. You have to decide on a few things, like which frame you’ll have; 45x145 mm is quite a common post and 45x45 mm as horizontal, possibly on the outside or maybe even on the inside. I'm thinking now of only vertical paneling, like a 120+120 mm overlock panel; this depends on how the house looks. Many also have a 145 mm overlock and 45 mm strip.
You’re asking about tables; they’re available online, search for "building with wood." The rule for cc 60 cm, which is the most common when building, for instance, a garage, the formula is 1.67 running meters per square meter. If a wall is 10 meters long and 250 cm high.
10 x 1.67 = 16.7 pieces + an extra at the start and optionally an extra at the end/corner = 19 pieces, multiply by the wall height = 2.5 meters, then you get the quantity in meters.
For a 10 meter wall, you also need a 10 meter bottom sill + 20 meters of top beam for the walls that should support the rafters. I usually don’t make a "top beam" on gables.
You’ll need a bit of extra length on the timber you cut yourself for angled cutting, drying cracks, etc. + 15-20 cm extra is probably a fairly good measure. A finished wall that should be 250 cm, cut the dry finished rule to 240 cm, but then you won’t have a finished ceiling height of 250 cm, just so you know. The roof is built downwards from the rafters, like 35x70 mm roof joists plus 12.5 mm gypsum, almost 50 mm which lowers the inner ceiling. The greatest joy with self-sawn timber is that you can plan and cut the timber lengths you need yourself. Good luck!
I have a cabin from the 1860s with pine paneling that, as far as I know, is original. I know that the sapwood of pine can be quite perishable under certain circumstances, not sure if it depends on modern drying processes, wrong felling time, or "immature" trees. The mentioned paneling consists of unedged boards, so the sapwood is included. Another point is that the walls are protected by a substantial roof overhang. I've spoken with an old carpenter, now over 90, who agreed that pine is often more durable and that there are issues with builders' merchants exclusively focusing on spruce.V Vardon said:
If you want an 8-10 m span without support and with northern snow load, you should make sure to get a reliable construction description for the roof trusses (and probably for the load-bearing walls). It might have to be truss roof constructions that complicate the use of the attic space.
I have read that it should also work to fell in late fall. It can certainly be practical sometimes if you're not dependent on winter conditions or can wait a bit with the actual hauling. You probably don't need to wait until spring for sawing; rather, it should be done by spring at the latest.Arvid Stålsträng said:
Inside insulated walls, the timber must be completely dry, spruce and pine dry about 1" per year, meaning a board that is winter felled and sawn now can be dry enough to be built in after one year; a 2" beam should dry for two springs before it can be used in a tightly insulated house.
What I sawed 2" last month I can, at best, build into tight houses in May/June next year if it goes well with air drying.
If you build uninsulated outbuildings and use it as baseboards for ventilated facades on residential houses, you can often use the timber the same autumn if you fell in Jan/Feb, saw in March (by April at the latest), and stack with coarse dry spacers and air dry in a windy place in narrow high piles under a simple roof from April to September.
Tomture61
Self-builder
· Född i Luleå
· 6 266 posts
Tomture61
Self-builder
- Född i Luleå
- 6,266 posts
Tomture61
Self-builder
· Född i Luleå
· 6 266 posts
Tomture61
Self-builder
- Född i Luleå
- 6,266 posts
Have only wished for my own sawmill and often ended up on the forestry forum.
Have absolutely zero experience regarding sawing my own timber.
More than what I've sawed for house/garage construction, bought from the lumber yard
Found a thread here https://skogsforum.se/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=11151
+ their front page has a search function
Have absolutely zero experience regarding sawing my own timber.
More than what I've sawed for house/garage construction, bought from the lumber yard
Found a thread here https://skogsforum.se/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=11151
+ their front page has a search function
Last edited:
Apologies for the late response. Thanks everyone for the answers and insights, very good info and things that prompt more relevant questions.
I spoke with a local sawmill and they charge 1000 pix per hour excluding VAT. There they can process "10 solid logs per hour." That, versus if I buy my own small mini-sawmill for 60-70 lax, perhaps seems worth it. However, I have to account for transport costs 20 kilometers to/from the sawmill.
I have also gotten the impression that spruce is excellent for building frames. It is apparently the top choice, which is nice.
It is now clear to me that trees can be felled anytime between autumn and spring - thereafter they should be sawn. Where I am located in Norrbotten, the drying time roughly stops at the end of June. If it is to be built and "enclosed," the wood should not have more than 13% moisture, absolutely max.
So, for my new build, the plan now is:
1) Wait for the carpenter who I sent the drawing to, to provide a quote for everything I need
2) Calculate from the data in #1 how large and many trees I need
3) Fell, cut, transport to the sawmill
4) Saw according to the plan from #1
5) Transport home for drying and chill
6) Build!
Thoughts?
I spoke with a local sawmill and they charge 1000 pix per hour excluding VAT. There they can process "10 solid logs per hour." That, versus if I buy my own small mini-sawmill for 60-70 lax, perhaps seems worth it. However, I have to account for transport costs 20 kilometers to/from the sawmill.
I have also gotten the impression that spruce is excellent for building frames. It is apparently the top choice, which is nice.
It is now clear to me that trees can be felled anytime between autumn and spring - thereafter they should be sawn. Where I am located in Norrbotten, the drying time roughly stops at the end of June. If it is to be built and "enclosed," the wood should not have more than 13% moisture, absolutely max.
So, for my new build, the plan now is:
1) Wait for the carpenter who I sent the drawing to, to provide a quote for everything I need
2) Calculate from the data in #1 how large and many trees I need
3) Fell, cut, transport to the sawmill
4) Saw according to the plan from #1
5) Transport home for drying and chill
6) Build!
Thoughts?
You need to harvest and saw more than what the "cutting list," the drawing, and the carpenter indicate, not everything succeeds and there's always some mismeasurement or sawing error both in the breakdown phase and in the building phase. If you're drying the wood yourself, be prepared for some warping.
Thank you @fribygg