Building Materials and Construction Technology
cpalm: [citat] It remains to be seen how expensive and complicated it becomes. There is, of course, a limit. But it can't be ignored how extremely cost-effective it is to have printed from the shelf (even cheaper than unprinted). The existing floor is of course oiled, but I doubt it adds much in terms of longevity. Cosmetically, it has kept the surface fresh, but the rot is a few millimeters down where
Magnus Ar: [citat] Ok, seems a bit complicated. I've found this one at Bauhaus, maybe it works? https://www.bauhaus.se/kalkfarg-rust-oleum-400ml-klar?gclid=CjwKCAjwtIaVBhBkEiwAsr7-c2H6TVTlTNNTzrHeY7xG6XtEm5cEGSarQuRARbJqMk9Zs07U1yefdRoC39QQAvD_BwE#yotpo-recension
Andreas Andersson6: Hello I didn't know how to formulate the headline, but I have a deck that needs updating with a new railing and posts at a different cc, which means that previous cut-outs in the metal will be fully exposed. And it needs to be addressed in a smart way, right? I also had a base flashing that was cut out at each post; is that how it's supposed to be done? Or are there better methods? Five posts are
doctormirabilis: [citat] EDIT: aha, it's lightweight concrete. yeah, it sounds like plaster then. feels like it too.
AndersS: Regular tape is enough to wrap a few turns, it's not more complicated than that;)
toolman77: Looks like quick-setting plaster bandage. The question is why you think you need it. What kind of walls do you have in the apartment? When was the apartment built? If it's light powder and easy to drill, it's probably just the plaster you're in and you need to drill deeper. If it's black powder that stains, it's likely slag block. In that case, coarse wood screws without plugs or pre-drilling
Kattisarna: [citat] Great, I will try calling them tomorrow! Thanks for the response.
bjornhallberg: Unfortunately, I've already put up the wind boards, but at least it didn't turn out worse than the so-called carpenters who originally built the house. I can say as much as that there are definitely traces of leakage caused by the poorly fitted lead sheet, I saw it now when I moved upwards and removed some tiles on top of the roof dormer. That needs to be fixed, of course, but I didn't have time
Huddingebo: Stretch out the edges of the sheets so they press against the wood and paint a little. Works excellently.
Swebfn: My pergola is still standing a year later. There is a little over 360 between the posts and the outer beam is 45x145. The "roof rafters" are 45x120 and then I have quite a bit of extra weight in the form of beveled 28x120 boards.
Dublin: I recently renovated the bedrooms in the countryside with sloping ceilings, and I actually thought it looked best without moldings. I painted the ceilings and then wallpapered the walls, and with the help of a long steel ruler, it was easy to cut the wallpaper right at the transition between wall/sloping ceiling.
Perry88: Hey, I've bought two pallets of walls2paint as I’m renovating the house. Now I've come to the stairway, if you can call it that. It's about 3.5 meters high there. Is there anyone with experience in stacking two parts on top of each other? Does it work to fill it with putty? Regards
Nörden: [citat] Indoors I would say go for it, it works. Scratch a little in the lightweight concrete so that the clay has a slightly rough surface to adhere to. I know others who have clay plastered lightweight concrete houses with good results. Outdoors it also works but is more sensitive and will need to be repaired at regular intervals. [citat] Shouldn't be any problems [citat]
anders07: My solution for the wall more "fattigmans - Nivell" was mostly because I can't get air supply in any way, so I draw it from the house instead.
Vanagon: Save! Thought of this scene immediately :cool: [MEDIA=youtube]nEIs9fgUTeA[/MEDIA]
ptk: How did it go? How did you solve it and how long did you keep at it?
b8q: [citat] And I'm doubtful if a separate sleeve is even necessary. Usually, the ground drainpipe ends upwards (where the cleaning funnel is located) simply as a cut-off so-called smooth end (no sleeve), so if you want to extend that pipe say 40 cm upwards, it should be enough to buy a regular 110 mm pipe piece that has a sleeve on one end, turn that sleeve downwards to attach it to the existing
Workingclasshero: [citat] Good choice. Try to store that wood outdoors, especially if someone has sensitive airways. A good fire inside and bring that wood directly from outside and into the fire. Store it under a roof so it is as dry as possible.
pjop: Hello, we have a small shed (
pokasd: [citat] Thanks, you wouldn't happen to have a link to any hardware store? :)
martinradbo: [citat] Yes, I also can't see any problem with this. The strength can theoretically be discussed, with floor joists resting on a horizontal sill versus joist hangers with small anchor screws. With the sill concept, you screw the floor joist both into the sill from below and into the end grain through the beam. And the sill is screwed from below to the beam. I would think this holds many times
Corsair: Hello! I have a basement with a cast ceiling. We have now torn out 4m2 of flooring upstairs and it was insulated with sawdust and sand directly on the concrete. What and how can one replace the sawdust so that it doesn't need to be dusty and put back? To add, it didn't seem to have any moisture problems with just sand and sawdust alone.
TechChad: [citat] If it becomes a "problem" and the sealant gets ugly or unexpectedly cracks, you can always add a trim later :p
stalf: Drilled it out and then there was no problem unscrewing the frame.
Oldboy: Absolutely do not fill gaps between wooden boards. Wood moves with humidity and must be able to do so. Cover over psss with drywall with paper tape (not fiberglass mesh) and filler, or cover with paper strips as done with paper-stretched walls and ceilings.
KJD: Hello, I realize this wasn't yesterday, but do you have any experiences from your solutions here! I myself have an old basement wall that has an air gap according to the model, which has held up well, but now I'm facing some other challenges with it. S3 separate thread from today.
KJD: Hi, in a 60s house there is a ventilated basement wall (concrete block + air gap + lightweight concrete insulation/inner wall). The inner wall stands on blocks at the joints cc 60 cm, with a gap into the air space, I assume ventilation was the idea here. (The outer wall was later insulated on the outside in connection with drainage). (We have a concrete slab on grade that is uninsulated, hence
Jonatan79: [citat] If you aren't going to drill hundreds of holes, the vacuum cleaner won't spread the dust everywhere...
Bulten37: Thanks for the response. Used gipsbruk and it worked really well to cover the holes.