Building Materials and Construction Technology
jora2957: Thank you very much for your answers!
bighenk: [citat] but I should probably wait with the plinth itself maybe 1 day before it's cast? so the footing has a chance to cure a bit.
KjellTimell: Lifting my old thread.. [citat] Lifting my 4-year-old thread as the topic has become highly relevant again. The plaster is hitting voids here and there, and I'm not keen on replastering such a central part of the house, but want to be able to finish the job quickly. I'm considering the panel idea again, this time a combination of PL600 and 16ga/60mm nails in light concrete. The idea is tongue and
fribygg: [citat] BOARDS fine-sawn, pine or spruce 1X3" 48 dm should cost 90kr/each, planks are something completely different
z_bumbi: As the fixed one, but the angle between the edges is larger. It is possible that it is not in the standard range.
Anderscurl: Or why not take an Ikea fyrtur / kadrilj curtain and replace the fabric with mosquito netting. Battery-powered, remote control or app-controlled, alternatively via Google Home. If there is no suitable width, you can cut them down. It's probably also possible to widen them since you're replacing the fabric anyway.
TH-huset: [citat] aha, I understand now. Thanks for the quick response!
kungfuu: Roof and potentially drainage first (seems like it can wait as long as you don't do outdoor measures), the rest is economy and cosmetics, with heating being prioritized. However, it's unclear how much you save by switching from fjv, but if it's justified, I would prioritize it. The earlier you make the investment, the quicker the pay-off. Especially as components and electricity prices are likely
Gunnar Johansson69: [citat] …and he should really also restore the facade/house to its original condition if he no longer wants to complete the agreed facade replacement service. He can't just come and remove all the paneling/battens/weatherproofing and leave the house completely exposed. :)
Tubie: [citat] Thanks for the reply! Ok, maybe 2-3 min ;) Stood below and waited for the drill to come through.
pennybridge: I'm considering building a staircase for the side entrance but I'm a bit torn on which design to choose. I'm currently contemplating two options: [bild] The height up to the threshold is 40 cm The depth I have in mind is a total of 80 cm (50 cm for the upper step + 30 cm for the lower step) (leaving about 30 cm of stone slabs before the gravel). I plan to keep the width at 220-250 cm total (190
Hälva: After some back and forth, the roof was redone with new roofing felt. The carpenter redid it and did it right. (;
sepani: We have so-called L-supports around the plot and these are quite ugly. My idea is to mix some (very) small stones into plaster and coat the L-supports. What do you think, will it stick? Anything to consider?
fribygg: I would choose regular Örnpapp, it's simple, good, and cheap.
Derbyboy: Thank you so much, exactly what I was looking for!
sandos: I have a brick facade and have bought a "hose reel" that weighs almost 15kg and extends quite far from the wall. Am I just being paranoid in thinking it's a bad idea to attach it to the brick wall alone? It feels like with the lever effect, there will be a lot of tension pulling away from the wall at the top. I've even considered trying to secure something through the entire wall. It's a garage
Lajta: I have been thinking about this myself since there is a lot of hassle with protection that you have to take on and off. If you have 2 posts on each side and then lift it and anchor it in some way. Have you managed to create a roof that is also protected during wintertime?
Byggfuskarn: [citat] Sniff my way to identifying spruce or pine! Of course! I'm going to learn that. (y)
Bosse63: Hello I have a question about floor joists. I removed a floor that was directly on the joists (22 mm, chipboard with thin parquet on top, so it was a unit laid floating). After that, I have added some battens, improved the insulation, and will install chipboard and then parquet. Now to the question; do I need to add battens along the outer wall to support the chipboard? This would create a
Ole Utne: I'm going to build cabinet frames and cabinet doors for a storage-like space. Uninsulated and partially open (though protected from direct rain). What material would you recommend? Moisture-resistant plywood is an idea I have. But I've seen how the top sheet in the stack at Beijer warps, and I'm skeptical that it will behave better when it's hanging there as a cabinet door.
bellman83: Searing and inserting a piece feels the most professional, but the idea of wood glue and sanding dust is probably more suitable for my level of ambition.
Pelle81: Hello, do you usually need to moisten Husfix after it cures? I have repaired some damage to the plaster. But I see that I have gotten several small cracks when it has cured. It doesn't say on the bag that you need to moisten afterwards and I applied it in the sunshine. The plan is to sand and apply a thin layer. Beginner at this, so grateful for a response. Best regards.
Rillehouse: Hello! I have a lot of Paroc stone wool panels left and I'm wondering what I should do with them. I'm considering if it's a good idea to place them in the attic above the loose-fill insulation? Or is it technically unsound to lay stone wool panels on loose-fill insulation?
TypRätt: Hey, I'm in the process of a similar build. I also want to build stairs from the balcony to the deck below, haven't ruled out a spiral staircase but I'm afraid it might feel more like an emergency exit rather than a natural feature in the house design. How did it go for you, did you manage to get some stairs in place?
Pappa1986: [citat] If it is going to be 3.5 meters between the posts, you will get deflection if you use 70×70 or 45×95. I would suggest screwing and gluing 2 pcs of 45×145 instead, but it's not particularly nice. Otherwise, you have to go up to glued laminated timber 130×130mm, but there might be deflection there as well.
Peter787: [citat] There is indeed NTR-M, but only for professional use for constructions near water that are difficult or expensive to replace.
Pasjostrom: The height of the beam also depends on how high you want the decking to sit. I would recommend decking that is 28x120, it is the most common dimension and does not flex if you space the beams cc60cm.