Building Materials and Construction Technology
h_ndwritten: [citat] Yes, I've thought about that. There was already a bit of that when I tore down the walls. Thanks for the tip! (y)
Derbyboy: Is there any good glue (not wallpaper paste) that could be sprayed under the flakes?
janwide: Tested today according to the principle "if it doesn't creak, it's ok". Not a sound (y)
Bondra: I'm going to install sliding doors and add a wall. I have some unusual angles that require a diagonal angle to align with the doors. Spontaneously, I'm thinking of something similar, with the ends cut at x degrees. However, some form of nogging is needed to provide support on the short side and plasterboard. What best practices are there? Am I way off track here? [bild]
Emanuel01: [citat] A beam or similar can be painted and helps distribute the weight on the wall. So 4 sturdy screws for the beam instead of 8 smaller ones for the brackets in the wall. I have 4 solid screws in the wall holding the board, and the straps hang from 1 hook/eyelet.
karinhoj: Thank you for your replies. I have now measured, and it is 60 cm between the beams in the basement ceiling and then rough-sawn planks, so it shouldn't be a problem to screw directly into the plank ceiling. In the bedrooms, it is approximately 110 cm between the beams. It's difficult to see if the ceiling is bulging or not, but it's not a big deal if it's visible. The basement is a storage space,
snuttjulle: I think the top in the picture and my picture are very similar but differently rusty. I have a feeling that these were lying along the tracks where concrete sleepers had broken and been replaced. That was just my first thought when I saw it.
Okarlsson: Heavy security doors can indeed have a lot of force if slammed shut. As a first step, it's probably easiest to talk to the neighbor and ask them to close the door more gently. If they can't, they might be willing to install a door stopper.
David B: Hi! I am also interested in how it turned out so I'm bumping this thread.
BirgitS: Floor construction, unfortunately, I don't know much about; I thought it was about walls because that's where OSB is usually used. In floors, you typically have flooring particleboard. Regarding tiles, it's the industry standards from BKR that are standard.
sepani: [citat] we keep 20C and use about 15000 kWh per year while heating 280m2 so leca blocks are fine insulation. Waterborne underfloor heating throughout the floor, radiators upstairs
DidrikHobby: [citat] Thank you! Okay, darn I was hoping to avoid that... But at the same time, I’ll regret not doing it properly the first time when bad luck strikes. Thanks for the answer and the push to do it properly.
bengtsbox: Stealing this old question a bit. I am in the process of building a house which has a terrace that is 1.2m (at the highest) above the ground. In https://www.boverket.se/sv/PBL-kunskapsbanken/regler-om-byggande/boverkets-byggregler/sakerhet-vid-anvandning/racken-och-ledstanger/ you can read "The requirements for railings apply to stairs, ramps, and balconies that are not enclosed by walls." and
joakim_j: Yes, when I write "bjälklag" I naturally only mean the beams themselves, so no chipboard or anything else.
BirgitS: Yes, it looks like self-supporting truss rafters.
kloaken: [citat] Sounds reasonable, looks more like aerated concrete after a quick Google search. Just looking at the picture, it could be a plastered concrete wall, but having been headfirst into both types, this one is significantly softer :p
Mr-XXX: [citat] Hello! I purchased pipes from hornbach, planning to clean them then I'll lacquer them myself in the storage, I'm making the rails and handrails myself. It will be sturdy enough to comply with bbr standards for railings.
callelu: I've been sitting and carving myself a kuksa from a really nice birch burl where I've kept the naturally knobby outside. Despite trying to be really careful, I've misjudged the thickness in some places because it's very knobby and wavy in shape. It feels rotten if I have to scrap everything just because two small areas are currently as thin as paper. (Very obvious against a light). My thought was
speedbj: Anyone have information or experience with MIOFOL products from the Netherlands? Are there retailers in Sweden?
David_Berglund: Found this thread and I take the opportunity to link to Masonite Beam's document that regulates how one can make holes in their beams. On page 12, you find what I consider a rather cryptically formulated table, and to simplify interpretation, I can disclose that "hole depth" apparently refers to diameter, and "Product depth" (h) = beam profile height. You can make a single hole all the way from
Håkan Jakobsson1: [bild] [bild] [bild] [bild] [bild] [bild] [bild] [bild] Hi, I'm looking for advice when using fireproof mortar and bricks? We are going to renovate our fireplace, talked with the chimney sweep and he didn't see any issues with it. Is there anything I've forgotten or need to consider? The idea is to remove a corner of the brick section to turn the insert 90 degrees to open it up towards the sofa
sir_daniel: Crack/chisel. A damn hard job but durable…
Sson85: Like Scotte LH + Check out their website Scotter/beckers, there's quite a lot of useful information there.
RichardRR: [citat] Thanks for the detailed explanation. As you can see from my additional responses, I will start by treating the underside (Weber Rep 990) and then evaluate if I need to do anything with the top side.
sjostranden: Is there possibly anyone who can recommend a good engineer in Stockholm? What I need is a certificate regarding whether the wall is load-bearing or not.
AJ82: Here it might become a little clearer what I mean: [bild] The concrete slab is bone dry, but in the track of the old wall, it is wet, which presumably indicates that the concrete slab isn't letting through the moisture that is clearly there? But maybe it's like this with all concrete floors?