Building Materials and Construction Technology
Erik JL: [citat] Congratulations on the house. Many good tips here already. I have lived in old houses all my life. Nice atmosphere, as the houses are well built and well planned. The basic rule is materials. Feel free to join Byggnadsvårdsföreningen, there is a lot of knowledge, information, and contacts with craftsmen there. Check the roof first. Renovate, and try to finish something sometimes, so you
Nobyz: [citat] Sounds like a good approach, I'll try and do the same. I've used sealant with good results before between the drywall on the ceiling and wall, so I'll go with that.
Tsdoesds: Here I'm shooting from the hip and guessing wildly; but is it a cellar wall? It might be mold?
Snorkeljohn: I have checked with them and they have a higher price on the discs as well as a shipping cost of 1200kr per order. They do not allow pickup at their warehouse either, so this is unfortunately a more expensive option. But thanks for the suggestion, I gratefully accept all tips and opinions on the subject.
Handyoldman: Thank you for the response, unfortunately, the wall cabinets are not hung on a rail but on the wall and each other. It's also an exterior wall, so it is likely to vary in both temperature and moisture. I thought of being a bit lazy and using a panel as a backsplash in the kitchen, which is both nice and convenient. When everything is new, you know it's straight. Then it's time to bring out the
henche: Some questions for @bossespecial if you have the opportunity to answer... Inspired by this thread (link below) where you answered some questions, I would like to evaluate the possibility of a similar solution. https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/oeppning-i-yttervaegg.329255/page-15#post-3269626 That is, a solution with a 6m sliding section and placing a post inside the section (probably all the
Björn Melander: The basic principle of acoustic regulation in a room is to add sound absorption on one of two opposing surfaces. The formula is somewhat simplified: the right type of material in the right place in the right amount. In a home environment, it is desirable to reduce the reverberation time in the speech area, which practically means that the sound absorber needs to be at least 50 mm thick. Textiles
erik8308: Note, two posts were created and I can't see how to remove this. Hi, I'm thinking of renting a concrete grinder to remove plastic paint with a bit of what I believe is black mold on it. I plan to rent a Flex or Festool and connect it to my CTL26 and wear a P3 mask. Does it create so much dust that you need to cover and open windows, or will most of it end up in the vacuum cleaner? There isn't a
Kingenkongen: [citat] Thank you very much! The picture is truly descriptive!
Tornhuset: [citat] Thanks for the response! Do you think these small pieces must lie on the roof trusses so that everything has backing against them, or is it sufficient for the boards to be connected with these so that they don’t move relative to each other? It is not certain that the board joints will be exactly over the roof trusses.
sinuslinus: You install a salningslist so it covers the entire wall thickness or buy a 118 mm frame for 70+osb+gips. https://www.bygghemma.se/hus-och-bygg/dorrar-och-portar/dorrkarm-och-dorrfoder/dorrkarm-innerdorr/innerdorrskarm-swedoor-pluskarm/p-340276
OWbygg: I am renovating an old bathroom in a house from around 1900, and the bathroom is likely from around 1950. I have found 2 wall types and am considering how to create a base to later tile with modern materials. I hope to get tips from someone here in the forum who has experience with working on old houses. In the picture you can see 2 different wall types. To the left: The wooden wall was rendered
Tomkar530: I have an old sauna that I've torn out. Now I'm going to try to fix the walls, as they currently consist of ugly concrete blocks. One wall is below ground against the outer wall, while the other three face into the house. I'm considering plastering the wall that faces the outer wall and putting drywall on the other three. I haven't done anything like this before, so I hope someone can give good
JonasHansson: Thank you! I definitely had too much water in the last round, so I'll see if it has dried by tomorrow. I have another round since the spackle wasn't enough. Can you trust that it will cure if it’s still gooey tomorrow, or is it better to remove it?
Tompafix: Like this for example https://www.festool.se/kunskapsbank/anvaendningsexempel/saetta-fast-en-traebalk-i-en-st%C3%A5lbalk#Beskrivning
xl15: I used a rotating steel brush for the drill. No model I can find online (it was in the house we bought). Fairly similar to this, but with steel wires and significantly sparser between the wires. Rengöringsborste Nylon Gr150 100Mm 6Mm - SVITH.SE Going to fix three long ones in another room and there will be blasting. Doesn't seem relevant for you...
pacman42: If you start referring to the recommendations, they are more strict than that: - https://www.konsumentverket.se/for-konsument/sakra-varor-och-tjanster/barnsakerhet/sakra-barnsangar/ [citat] The last one did not apply when my daughter was little almost 20 years ago. It was a then-new IKEA bed that had two particle boards in the base under the loose mattress, she managed to lift one and got out of
cpalm: Wouldn't it become "crack-prone" if you just apply a millimeter of plaster directly onto the wooden reveal? Or how have you done it there? What's the plan? Do you want the reveal in wood? And shouldn't it in that case follow the window all around?
MathiasS: [citat] Aha, I understand now! But, there will be a slightly narrow piece left at the corner. It might still work out if you take a beveled edge from a sheet and then use a corner bracket in plastic or metal. If you then apply joint compound from the corner, nothing will show. Otherwise, it’s probably easiest to remove a decimeter from the left edge of the sheet instead, so you get a wider
Intershade: [citat] The following is a recommendation from Pergo: The moisture content of the subfloor must be less than 2.5% CM/75% RH (cement) or less than 0.5% CM/50% RH (anhydrite – subfloor). If there is underfloor heating, the values must be 1.5% CM/60% RH and 0.3% CM/40% RH respectively. The following are the results from the measurement: [bild] How should this be interpreted? Is it reasonable to
bubben.O: Hello everyone, does anyone recognize the attached cement block? Is it even available for purchase in Sweden? I'm planning to make raised garden beds and would like to try them. They are called Planter Blocks in English, but I can't find anything similar in Swedish + online.
Jopa79: I have an available flue that I'm considering connecting to a stove. Unfortunately, a large structural beam is located right next to it, and some sort of fire protection will likely be needed to resolve this. A fireboard or some masonry perhaps? But the entrance will be very close to that board. Does anyone have any ideas?
Rammega: The previous owner was in a big rush to get it done before we bought it. Over the years, we have noticed that the wallpaper has also bubbled on non-exterior walls. We now only have this space left to fix... but it certainly feels like a gamble.
Kane: [citat] Oh no, regular schoolwork! Aren't there any shortcuts......:cool:
Bockstensmannen: Planning to convert the garage from a garage into a laundry room/drying area and SPA. The door will become a panoramic window and all the junk will be thrown out.
chris47: Yes, aluminum studs do not move like wood does, but I think that glulam beams are quite dimensionally stable compared to 45x220 studs. Regards. /CC
Daniel 109: Concrete and wet brick weigh about the same. But why change materials?