Building Materials and Construction Technology
Lilllen: Personally, I think it was a stylish and clean look as it is now. The current appearance also lets in more light, and since it's the only window, it's a shame to reduce the light intake.
peter.linkan: [citat] Great tips. Thanks!
joakim_j: [citat] I lost control over the water pipes a bit, so I glued metal tracks with PL400 and placed the "base plate" in them. Otherwise, spike plugs or expansion bolts are suitable. With sill gasket between concrete and stud.
sunnis: A cutout of 3cm doesn't play any role at all. So go ahead with your plan, no problem.
Hemtomten: [citat] Thank you so much for the help!!
Johannnnnnn: There is also quite a large plaster release on the base, about 50x50cm (no picture). Could it be related to moisture?
nwin: After the demolition, I am now replying to myself in case it might help someone else. When the demolition of tiles and clinker started, it turned out that the walls were also made of metal. The walls also lacked a traditional frame with studs. Instead, the metal sheets are bent and joined together with rivets in their seams. Therefore, the tiles were removed down to the metal sheets, which, after
hempularen: It is completely harmless if you don't tear or process it. Even then, it is practically harmless for isolated exposures, but one should have respect and use protective equipment even as a DIYer. The people who primarily suffered from asbestos-related injuries worked in asbestos cement factories (asbestos cement contains asbestos) and worked all day long, for years, in places filled with asbestos
Marcello: [citat] I have planned to reinforce the heart wall, so it will not be a problem. The wall is directly above a concrete wall in the basement, so the floor/level below probably doesn't need any action. Thanks for the answer.
Claes Sörmland: [citat] No, not to dismantle the electrical installation. (One possibility is for the electrician to disconnect the cables and then you can tear it down.)
Anders87forsberg: [citat] Ok. Thanks for the quick reply. We'll see how we proceed. We will probably rethink and come up with a solution where the load-bearing wall remains untouched. Regards
jasmejna: Hello! Nice job. Wondering how you attached the lining/moldings?
RJ768: Ok, thought about putting a post in the middle of our, also double carport. Calculated the posts and have come to 90x90 on the outer edge and 115x115 in the middle (building in southern Sweden). Spontaneously feels like your plinth should be more than sufficient for what we want to build :thinking:
VVS o Energi: [citat] Simply replace the windows, I would say. Maybe add some insulation on the inside anyway. The original poster mentioned a great need for modernization, and then I think you might as well replace the windows, seal the wall, openings, etc. Insulate between the studs, if it's not already done, and maybe more if possible.
KJD: [citat] got a tip to watch Finja/Björn C's video where he plasters interior walls, and mentions repair and "fine plastering" - he recommends C mortar fine 0-1 mm, I am planning to try that [MEDIA=youtube]8NiTxH0gUeE[/MEDIA] https://k-bygg.se/sortiment/byggmaterial/bruk-bindemedel/bruk/950219
AnnaMHKarlsson: Of course, that's true! However, my impression is that they are incredibly cumbersome to install, but that might just be prejudice on my part. Do you have any idea about the dimensions one would need? /Anna
Snabelhund: [citat] It is no longer in use, so it's all good, thanks anyway.
DaDolly: Hi, I once built up an opening between the hall and kitchen. Now I'm thinking of opening it up again but want the doorway shifted to the right (viewed from the hall). I want the opening to start about 1030 mm from the right (viewed from the hall). I want the opening to be about 900 mm. The studs are quite close in the middle (see image). How can I most easily create the opening I want? I have
Herrman5: [citat] [citat] That's recognizable, thanks Here you need to be steady so you don't drill straight through, smart that variant with stop on
Gooli: Great for covering a workbench is stainless steel sheet. Perhaps from an old discarded kitchen sink. Easy to keep clean and can withstand some wear and tear. An unpatterned surface also makes small items easy to see. Edit / For window renovation, perhaps a plastic mat or another even softer mat is preferable.
RogerHql: A 2 cm drip edge in the panel and a corresponding catch plate underneath to direct water off the roof is really the only sensible solution. Compare this to the connection of the roof to the verge board. Same principle! See more in the Wood Guide. An invaluable document if you own or are responsible for a wooden house: https://www.traguiden.se/konstruktion/konstruktionsexempel/tak/ The roofing
AG A: Between the ceiling and the sloped ceiling, you just cut each molding at the angle/2, just like in other 90-degree corners where you cut the moldings at 45 degrees. So somewhere around 15-17 degrees will probably be the angle you should cut the moldings at, between the ceiling and the sloped ceiling. In the lower corner between the sloped ceiling and the wall, you cut like in a completely
warthog: The top image is of a printed board...and it's completely normal if it turns out that way...it disappears over time...images two and three seem to be organowood...that is, impregnated with silicon...the first few years, organowood will look terrible...with black mold spots and "fuzz" on everything...also completely normal and disappears over time...
hobc: Building a loft/mezzanine in an industrial space made of wood. Planning to attach the beam to the wall, which I thought consisted of vertical studs, but it turned out to be horizontal. Is it sufficient to attach the beam to a horizontal stud? It's a 195x45 beam attached with 6x180 wood screws. I would like to avoid support studs/posts underneath. The beam is 15 meters long, and the width will be
Sson85: [citat] Works as both glue and sealant and doesn't crack like regular cheaper sealant/latex.
Samir_88: [citat] Hi, can I get the contact details for this seller? Regards, Samir