Building Materials and Construction Technology
Stubai: A screw like this one would work. But it needs to be adapted to both the object it will fasten to and the object to be fastened. https://www.k-rauta.se/produkt/vingskruv-essve-48x45-mm-tx-fs-corrseal-250st/7317761295419
Strontus: Since it is just a marker and not an actual barrier, proceed with the simplest possible installation, either in the concrete edge around the parking or in the cobblestones. You will see this most easily on site when you know the size of the bracket.
nino: If you have recently cast everything else with concrete, I would continue with that and create the slope with it as well. Personally, I wouldn't mix slow-setting mortar with fast-setting, not unless the regular concrete has dried for at least 6-12 months.
FredrikR: [citat] Ok but you seem to believe that ts thinks he can place it incorrectly...
Adamsweden91: Hello, The summer project is to build a storage shed and an extension (carport). The storage part is on a concrete slab while the carport will be on 4 pillars. But, when you think you are the "world champion" after all the preparation, you realize it doesn't quite add up. Now to my question... I had hoped to have some adjustable post shoes cast into the 4 pillars I have dug down, but then I
Yoshimel: It was RadonAssistans i Skåne AB that helped us.
anders07: [citat] Exactly, the expiration date is for how long the manufacturer can guarantee that the amount of hexavalent chromium is kept within guideline values. Hexavalent chromium is not to be trifled with, so wear a respirator, gloves, and protective clothing if handling old concrete/mortar. However, maybe it's not a big deal every once in a while... Concrete products, in general, last and work well
Vardagsrum: Creaks in the stairs are due to wood rubbing against wood. To make them quiet, you have to ensure in any way you choose that the wood cannot move and rub against other wood. I would guess that closed stairs (anti-footbreakers) are easier to reinforce than the open variants you have.
Jonatan79: Sure thing! A few drywall screws on that and if you're extra lucky, maybe after a few shots and a naked dance around the pole tomorrow, you'll hit a stud or two ;)
hakan_975: [citat] That's exactly how I did it, it was like cutting through butter!! So a sharp utility knife (like Stanley Fatmax or similar) cuts a hard rubber mat without problems (if anyone else has the same concerns)
Johan Larsson9794: [citat] No, the picture I linked to is probably stone with plaster? That's what we want at least.
nova383: Hi, I have a hallway with a corner staircase. The staircase has been on 21mm underlay as "finished floor simulators." I was thinking of leveling with about 10mm of self-leveling compound and then adding some tiles or laminate. It is a cast concrete slab with embedded waterborne heating. Should I think 10mm self-leveling, 2mm foam, 8mm tiles with the rest being grout/adhesive? Or what layer
RBK: [citat] Great! Since it's on a slight slope, the brick is at ground level in one corner. I'll have to be a bit creative there.
smh: Excellent, then I will proceed. Thank you for the help!
hardbigfoot: Hello. I have screwed 60% of my decking. I have 34x145. The current decking I'm working on is around the pool. Last summer I completed those 60%, then a lot of other stuff came up. I'm continuing this summer. I installed them with C4-class screws. I've learned now that it should be A4 around the pool. Most of the screws have broken during the winter as the decking expanded I guess because the
r3jonwah85: I'm in the process of tearing out an old beam structure in a room in our early 1900s house and am making plans on how to rebuild it in the best way. The floor is intended to end up at the same level as the original floor, though of course straight (previously sloped about 6 cm), which will be approximately at the height where the exterior walls transition from concrete to brick (solid walls). The
AndersS: Became Heco panel screw. Was easy to screw and pulls down the råspont. https://www.clasohlson.com/se/Panelskruv-Heco-Invisible-C4/p/41-4213?gclid=CjwKCAjw-b-kBhB-EiwA4fvKrJMAe7Rxxh1BVM_-0aFIHHR2FXB17L3_GiWjfkfhAItP6tQkHV466xoCcRQQAvD_BwE
Stefan1972: Mold? It seems like it might have been damp at some point for some reason, but it could just as well have been due to poor ventilation along with a cabinet there or something. If it's dry now and there's no indication of moisture, then just continue.
Calle Schewen: [citat] I want to paint with slamfärg, and the paint currently on it is old plastic paint.
ÉlPon: [citat] Read a bit and neither Gyproc nor Norgips think you should have wood-based panels behind their drywall, so it seems a little pointless to try to fulfill their instructions.
jonaserik: Just build on, I have 2.5 meters in between, and they hold a terrace in the sky at 2.5 meters and go through 90 cm up. On them sits my railing rock solid.
Christian LeBygg: True. Especially common in places with a lot of tides, which requires the dock to rise and fall several meters (on piles). I believe they can be slippery if there's a lot of slope, which is usually addressed by having a long gangway. Crosswise ribs and grip tape/anti-slip tape are probably quite common features. Also a bit uncertain how well they handle lateral movement. Depends on the width of
Oldboy: For an air gap to function, it must be connected to the outside air. This means that air holes must be made through the wall. If any strips are placed as air gap spacers against wind paper/insulation, they must be laid along the rafters. They must not prevent the air from reaching all the way to the house's gable.
MBZV: Quite a thread lift ;) I have plans for a similar project soon. What kind of roof do you have? Råspont and then a metal roof? How much pitch on the roof?
fabian2000: A house built around 1985 with parts of the basement and the entire garage located underground. Previously not properly built with insufficient sealing from the outside, which we are now trying to correct. How would you proceed with moisture-proofing according to all requirements and regulations? My idea is as follows. See pictures of the garage where we have now dug up to the concrete. The plan
Andreas Kneg: Hello I understand that I need the board's approval, but renovations are done all the time in apartments built in this way, right?
Christian LeBygg: Too bad you haven't received any response. Have you moved forward with your plans? I think you should try to renovate the existing stone cavity and try to make all the new elements look old to avoid disturbing the beautiful nature and avoid unnecessary discussions about building permits. Go with a stone cavity or a stone cavity with piling to make it extra strong. All the work you do to prevent
sultanen1: When I've replaced a panel, I've screwed a board/stud at the bottom as support, meaning I haven't cut afterward. Oiling/priming becomes better/easier/faster. But it also depends on what it looks like at the upper end of the panel being replaced (midjeva, just under the roof overhang, etc.), what precision is needed.