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33 replies
45k views
33 replies
Cut underside mounted panel with circular saw!
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VillaAnna
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 389 posts
VillaAnna
Member
- Västra Götaland
- 389 posts
Hi!
I'm almost done with the paneling on the house and I'm planning to trim the underside of the panel with a circular saw. Both the panel and the batten are installed. Does anyone know how the pros usually do this, do they mount a panel board to guide the circular saw? How do they keep it straight if multiple boards are needed? Anyone with experience in this who can give a couple of tips?
Have a nice weekend!
I'm almost done with the paneling on the house and I'm planning to trim the underside of the panel with a circular saw. Both the panel and the batten are installed. Does anyone know how the pros usually do this, do they mount a panel board to guide the circular saw? How do they keep it straight if multiple boards are needed? Anyone with experience in this who can give a couple of tips?
Have a nice weekend!
Empirically, you cut all the boards beforehand since the length is the same, and if it's for your own space, you can ensure that the end grain is properly primed for installation.
But now that you have already installed the panel, measure down from the eaves and mark in two or more places, then use a chalk line to get a straight line, or use a simple laser that can be bought almost anywhere for a few hundred.
But now that you have already installed the panel, measure down from the eaves and mark in two or more places, then use a chalk line to get a straight line, or use a simple laser that can be bought almost anywhere for a few hundred.
Several construction companies and house manufacturers have stopped cutting drip noses.
It seems that new findings have shown that a straight underside dries faster.
However, the most important thing is to oil/prime and apply a finish coat to protect the träta.
It seems that new findings have shown that a straight underside dries faster.
However, the most important thing is to oil/prime and apply a finish coat to protect the träta.
Do you have a source for that? Why would a straight cut dry faster? What's the mechanism in it?AndersS said:
Grundstött
· Halland
· 28 345 posts
That's how it was done in the past at least. After all the paneling was mounted, they nailed one or more boards along the bottom edge and sawed a neat finish on the panel. A suitable angle for water drainage is said to be a 17-degree bevel cut. (Mikael?) Don't believe those who say it works just as well to cut straight!VillaAnna said:Hello!
I'm about to finish the paneling on the house and plan to cut the bottom of the panel with a circular saw. Both the panel and battens are mounted. Does anyone know how the professionals usually do this, do they mount a panel board to guide the circular saw against? How do they keep it straight if they need multiple boards? Anyone with experience in this who can give a few tips?
Have a nice weekend!
Self-builder
· Stockholm
· 2 705 posts
I screwed in 45x45 regel/ar along the facade side and tilted the circular saw, then it was just a matter of holding firmly against the regel and the edge became perfectly straight.
After that, the end grain was oiled and painted in stages.
After that, the end grain was oiled and painted in stages.
What is said is that on a straight surface, less water stays and is distributed over the surface, while on a drip edge, as it sounds, a drop stays and takes longer to dry out. The drip edge was originally intended to lead water drops away from old stone foundations where the panel often lay close to the foundation. And where one also used traditional red paint. But as mentioned, there are likely to be different camps on what is best. You will have to search more on the internet, and there are probably threads here on the forum as well. I got the information from a well-regarded construction company in the area, where their carpenters have been instructed not to cut drip edges anymore.JOW said:
Addition: Do it in the way that feels right for you and focus on the painting of the end grain.
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It feels like mixing freely...
Less surface area, okay yes that's true
Dries faster, why is that? The entire surface is exposed to the same drying heat/temperature.
The whole argument feels backwards, why would a drop linger longer when there's a sharper edge...
It feels like nonsense to save work...
Less surface area, okay yes that's true
Dries faster, why is that? The entire surface is exposed to the same drying heat/temperature.
The whole argument feels backwards, why would a drop linger longer when there's a sharper edge...
It feels like nonsense to save work...
