Building Materials and Construction Technology
z_bumbi: It determines how useful the product is/how much is needed for the same protection and therefore how cost-effective it is, so check it out.
Erik We: Hi, sorry for the lack of responses so far. I have just taken possession of the older house, so I don't know it very well yet and therefore cannot answer how the draft is or which way the air goes. This house is heated with geothermal energy but has a fireplace that is used in winter, so the chimney at least gets warm in winter. Generally, the house is poorly insulated, and the windows are
Odi et Amo: Mortar or tile adhesive for natural stone and outdoor
Åsa Lund: Something like this? https://www.google.com/shopping/product/1?lsf=seller:100620699,store:3109693285302259946,lsfqd:0&prds=pid:7633229305515089493,oid:7633229305515089493&q=delar+till+kanalsystem&hl=sv-SE&ei=e7CrZIuIDZjSxc8Psb-1gAM&sts=14&lsft=gclid:CjwKCAjw2K6lBhBXEiwA5RjtCRV0tQRFVchp5v6NJ4XQam2Dd65C9PtHumECYhQfSgPGjkMxtH3voRoCBzYQAvD_BwE
KJD: [citat] I bought Siporex blocks at Bauhaus, about 70mm x 600mm x 400mm, for about 70kr each. There might be another size available. I bought a lightweight concrete handsaw at Jula for maybe 100 kr (enormous saw teeth), if it's not just for cutting off a small piece, I think a regular handsaw wears out quite a bit. Hornbach, K-Bygg, etc., surely have alternatives. There are other brands too.
plåtrickard: [citat] May I guess that it is felt on the roof? Yes, aluzinc is not the best material... But it's hardly around anymore...
Skalman9: Thanks for the answers! A bit clearer now.
p-pennan: I think option 2 is the nicest. If you have a leaning post, it will be difficult to open/close. I have built a leaning post to make gates self-closing.
Jan Andersson8: I am going to tear up a floor in a "cabin" I have in southern Europe. It is a crawl space-like solution with a concrete slab. Today, the slab looks from above, wood floor Cast concrete joists at 300mm centers and air between them. concrete slab crawl space I have a problem with the floor smelling bad (probably because of moisture from below). Therefore, I planned to tear it up, fill the airspaces
Jonatan79: If you're going to demolish using steam brakes in the walls, that's enough and then you can choose heated or not. I don't know if it makes a big difference, but the outer wall will probably hold better and last longer if you get a windbreak there externally.
Brandtafan: I'm just wondering if anyone has done this and if it worked well. We have a concrete basement staircase that is a bit so-so and would need a renovation. Right now, there is some sort of tile history that is starting to come loose in some places. Since it's shaded all day and when it rains, it stays constantly damp and has a lot of algae, making it very slippery. Is pressure washing a good idea or
Snickarkirre: Hey! Yes, there are brad nailers that can be used on concrete. They make slightly larger holes than a regular brad nailer, but you can fill in the holes with spackle if you think the holes are too big and don't want them there. They probably cost a lot but can surely be rented. I've only used such ones at work, and the company owns them, so I have no idea about the price. But check with some
InsidersUnited: With any paintable sealant of a suitable brand. I have occasionally used window putty with good results, actually, but use any sealant if you have one.
sturnus: [citat] One plate 90 and 2.5 plates 120, so cc 5x60 + 1x45 + the rest
Violina: It looks like it's held with very small "golden" screws? I would try to unscrew these. If it comes off then my qualified guess is that it doesn't have a function for the construction. Then you need to put something that holds the steps in place and covers the grooves where the risers have been...
Byggarbuffen: [citat] Hi! I'm in exactly the same situation where I'm renovating an apartment with old tile adhesive that looks sanded Did you putty straight over? I’m thinking of doing that too.
JoMaV: I have an outbuilding at the summer cottage that my grandfather once built. It has served as a workshop and storage with a small sleeping area. Now we are keen to turn it into a guest house since it has both insulation and municipal water and sewage connected. We are keen to tear down the wall where the white door is located to open up the room. And then the classic question. Surely there aren't
tergo: if it is hollow brick, it can be difficult to get the plug and screw to hold properly
tensiden: Putty knife, rubber mallet, and heat with a hairdryer. Then it came loose! [bild]
Schlotten: Hello! I am planning to install drywall in a bedroom. But I saw in a video that they first put chipboard on the exterior walls before the drywall. Can you install drywall directly on the studs regardless, or is chipboard necessary on the exterior walls first?
Oldboy: The main reason for introducing an air gap in modern construction is the use of modern airtight paints that trap moisture in the panel because it cannot dry out quickly enough either inwardly or outwardly. Use traditional paints such as slurry paint, tar paint, or linseed oil paint, and it works fine. As falkn points out, it can also facilitate drying if moisture penetrates, as well as limit the
Freniño: [citat] Fun to hear! They've been there for five years now, after all ;)
Oldboy: The crucial factor is how much rain they are exposed to. For example, if it only gets rain-soaked once a year, then ordinary untreated spruce is sufficient. If it gets rain-soaked almost every time it rains, then it's heartwood, heart pine/pitch pine/slow-grown or pressure-treated wood that is needed. What was installed there that is now bad, and how long has it been there? If it's painted with
jonaserik: For tip-over protection, long wood screws are sufficient, but remember they need to penetrate the wall at least 7 cm + 3.5 cm. Normally, in heraklit (which is crap), the screws/bolts need to be thick and penetrate at least 10 cm, as screws/bolts can bend because heraklit doesn’t hold up well against lateral force.