Building Materials and Construction Technology
fribygg: I would have left it as is. (replacing the panel and window is a waste)
kniv: It is possible to use the concrete wall to attach the frame to. You can also install a stud, depending on what you feel like doing and how skilled you are. The easiest way is probably to install a stud and make a frame, which you then attach the frame to. It's easier to get the frame level when attaching, as you avoid drilling, plugging, and all that is needed with concrete. And it's easier to
@ndreas: [citat] Contact a sheet metal worker and you'll get exactly what you want! It's probably called checker plate...
LasseMorin: Trying to revive a thread with the last post from 4 years ago. I need your opinions on different types of subfloor panels. Fiber cement is out, too expensive (for an extension on the summer cottage). Or so I thought!! Byggmax offers fiber cement panels at the same price as oil-hardened wood fiber with almost the same dimensions. They claim the oil-hardened is easy to work with. Compared to fiber
spinky83: Old thread but maybe someone will be interested in the future. I have a house from the late 50s with a slab-on-ground foundation and Siporex walls. The slab was insulated with cork and asphalt to prevent cold during winter. Attached is a drawing of the house foundation.
SteffeTornado: Hello, The work on building the terrace has now begun, while simultaneously feeling like I should have bounced my ideas off someone sensible. The plan: build a terrace against the rock face with a staircase (about 5 steps) up along the thuja trees. It will be a small social area. The plan is to dig out more soil but I couldn't resist putting up the first beam against the wall. The beam is mounted
jonaserik: You can then drill for fransk in the rule so it goes freely in it, and in the panel, you pre-drill with a bit that matches the inner diameter of the threads. Keep in mind that there should be approximately 50 - 60 cm between the fransk to hold well. When you tighten, do it moderately, not too tightly. After about a year you can check on them, as wood has a tendency to shrink.
ccx: [citat] The importance of a moisture barrier increases with thicker insulation in the house. This is because the thicker the wall, the more difficult/longer it takes to ventilate away any penetrating moisture. In the attic, additional insulation lowers the temperature, and thereby increases the RH, which raises the risk of mold growth. Leakage of indoor air provides both heat and moisture to the
newbzi: [citat] I'm in the process of putting new roofing felt on the roof and have reached the dormer. It's a bit difficult to screw in the underflashing at the very top of the dormer due to space, should I skip it there then?
jontem87: I have torn down particle boards on one side of an interior wall. Behind these is some type of spacer material. The few wooden studs that exist do not reach the ceiling or the floor. Instead, they only hang nailed into the particle boards. [bild] [bild] In the building permit application from 1976, it states the following [bild] [bild] Does anyone know what these spacer materials are more
Sjöholm94: [citat] What did this solution cost? I'm thinking of everything from frames to electricity to the finished surface.
quick: [citat] Picture from post #30. How do you access to support the lower part of the roof from the inside? The piece that has sunk down is outside in the crawl space.
Fulkemisten: [citat] Yes. He passed away a while ago. Rest in peace.
fsn: [citat] Just make sure to get the net down properly so you don't have visible marks in the concrete that can be seen from above and ensure you have a stable and well-packed substrate.
Workingclasshero: Hello I have a cast wall in a room that also has a cast ceiling and no insulation. I have a water pump for the house and pool there. Now I will insulate the ceiling from the outside; it's located under a newly built deck. I will also insulate the wall with styrofoam and put metal sheeting on the outside as protection. But what quality should I use for the styrofoam and why? Rats can get to the
Britt-Marie Johansson: [citat] Okay, I thought it would be easier up at the ridge 😩 are ridge tiles always nailed or screwed hm..
Kristian Ask: I am planning to cast a concrete slab. I've made a few samples "in the past," but this time I want to keep the thickness and weight down. The thickness should absolutely not exceed 30 mm, but preferably around 20 mm. The slab is for an outdoor kitchen, and the maximum allowable overhang is 600 mm. The question is simply how to make it hold best. I have previously used regular fine concrete and
FredrikR: [citat] 28x70, or 28x60 are often used. Often called "glespanel", available in tongue-and-groove so you can easily splice.
40talshuset: [citat] I agree with you completely. However, it would be a lot to replace everything and also difficult to replace with full-length planks, as the house is almost 10 meters high, unfortunately. But nothing unusual construction-wise to let the upper part of the facade overlap the lower one with the upper one, so to speak? How long should the overlap be approximately? Is 10 cm enough or should it
Tompafix: [citat] Both my decks are directly on paving stones. They don't have a main beam, just a framework with 170mm joists. They've remained stable for over 10+ years. A deck weighs quite a lot and doesn't move easily.
GDS74: Bought black 10mm spacers, turned out well. Working on the outer support beam, do you have any objections before I continue? Will place blocks at the bottom between the supports to avoid a V shape. Fastening with screws, 3 per support.
eztoril: Hello, I have taken a closer look at so-called moisture-resistant flooring chipboards, like these: https://www.beijerbygg.se/privat/sv/produkter/byggmaterial/byggskivor/spanskivor/golvspan-22x620x1820-fukttrog-p6-p5-tack-1-08-30-900218917 Could these be suitable? /Martin
hansulainen: Thank you for all the answers! EAN is the same and it is the same product in the Tuberna. 🙌
Mats-S: [citat] A nail gun is a curse; it's quick to get the panel up, but when the nails start creeping out after a few years you'll regret it... Buy a professional hammer for about 800 SEK (e.g., Vaughan) and you'll nail better and faster than today :cool: The nails you use should be as rough galvanized as possible, then they hold strongly unlike the crap used for nail guns. A hand-nailed rough
lucke_lucas: [citat] That's how I have it today, but it won't work with this new structure. Regardless, I will not split the LTB. Thanks for all the answers.