Building Materials and Construction Technology
Cerb: [citat] It's wise to run a wall scanner over the wall you're planning to drill into first to avoid mishaps.
Sandraa123: [citat] Thank you so much! Yes, I will check with my association before I start with anything 😊
Daliu: [citat] Thanks for the help. I'll try to investigate tomorrow. Maybe I'll come back with pictures.
WaldenWoods: When I look at your picture, I also think it would be aesthetically okay to continue with the boardwork that you have on the far right, also on the left part. Whether it's weathered pressure-treated pine, or Siberian larch, or whatever it is.
hesalex95: [citat] Thanks for the response. Yes, I'll use screws that go through everything including the battens. I've also done some digging around in the insulation in the attic above and I think I have a handle on the existing wiring (it goes, as you say, straight down from the attic to the junction box and switch), so it seems fine.
jonasandero: That's how it turned out. Made a "template" for hanging up the load-bearing beams. Easy to get everything right afterward. Screwed from the outside and hide the screws with the ribs.
Dowser4711: Fill the hole with Husfix, epoxy, or something else that might be suitable after you've cleaned it as well as possible. But, instead of waiting for it to cure and drilling a new hole, insert the plug where you want it, so it can settle in and cure in place. Then just screw in your eye & hook when it's dry and hard again.
MattiasJohansson21: It is 20mm and doesn't seem to be a problem according to this video [MEDIA=youtube]Do6QxRDL_Ic[/MEDIA] And as mentioned, it is not solid stone but quartz composite.
Harald Blåtumme: If you install decking with hidden fastening, you must consider it as permanently screwed in. Movements in the wood mean that you can hardly unscrew the decking after some time and hope that the wood can remain intact at the weak fastening points created by angled screwing - it will result in large splinters breaking off.
matgre: Thanks for the explanation and picture, our idea looks a lot like how yours does! Nice!
Erik Hedberg: We solved it. I lifted the post with a crowbar and my buddy tapped it into the right place. We adjusted the distances with the nuts.
TorpAnders: [citat] As thin as 40mm, I would cut off the corners on a table saw/rip saw then use a belt sander with coarse paper for the radius.
anders07: [citat] So now, 9 years later, I actually don't remember what I meant... I was probably frustrated that it was slow and troublesome, I guess... But, yes, there was an incredible amount of iron in that balcony...
Jochi: [citat] The hole must be clean for the mass to bond well. A special bottle brush is recommended. The weakness of the fastening mass lies in how well it adheres to the rock. Therefore, it's good if the hole is as large as the bolt because a large hole has a bigger surface area than a small one. I experienced this when it came to fastening a flagpole in rock. Fastening mass at Biltema is not very
BirgitS: It is a common type of foam and I don't think Skandor would do it worse than any other manufacturer. Vinyl flooring, linoleum flooring, and perhaps vinyl click flooring are otherwise what builds up the least in height.
Mkk1: Hello, The previous owner built a smoke channel a bit poorly... (see picture). Now I would like to fix it, plaster the outside, and then paint everything. Is it just a matter of plastering, or is there something to consider with the smoke channel? Never done it before. How would you fix the angles in picture 2? What material works best to create a straight line to plaster on later? Thanks in
MattiasJohansson21: Hello!! I'm in the process of renovating at home and looking into alternatives for countertops and got interested in cutting a composite board myself, as it seems you don't need more tools than those intended for wood. My question is, how the heck do you buy such a board separately? All I find when I google are custom-made boards and I end up over 20k anyway. My idea is to get away considerably
Alexander Go: [citat] Did the drying cabinet happen?
etompau: A plywood board (formplywood) had become stable and good. It's unclear what dimension the groove in the frame has. Then it can be tricky to insert the board into the grooves without dismantling the frame in some way.
putte22: Cut/saw off the plasterboard a few centimeters up from the floor and attach a j13 trim to the plasterboard. This will give a nice finish https://www.gyproc.se/produkter/profiler/avslutningsprofiler/gyproc-j-13-l
Erikl12345: Hello Nameloser [citat] Hello Nameloser, [/QUOTE] It turned out great! We are facing a similar question as we are considering rebuilding our open fireplace at our summer house outside Falkenberg and we are now looking for masons and have also contacted the Elda store. I wonder which mason you used? I get the impression that you are satisfied with the work and if I interpret it correctly, you live
BirgitS: [citat] I think it will soon look the same or worse.
klaskarlsson: [citat] With such a small gap on top of a pit, which can become damp, it will probably be good with pressure-treated.
bossespecial: It is very likely not load-bearing. There is no wall in the basement under this wall either. Take a trip up to the attic and see if there are W-trusses, then you can safely take down the wall.
TeroM: I have used butterfly patch, it's simple and turns out well. It's easier to do with square pieces [MEDIA=youtube]LRafsM3pE-U[/MEDIA]