Building Materials and Construction Technology
ricebridge: Anchor adhesive usually holds well, but there's a risk that the concrete block might tear apart instead. At the same time, the question is how strong the wind will be. In the picture, it looks like the roof is also supposed to sit flush against the house. If you just secure it properly there, and make the construction rigid and nice (so it doesn't wobble out of the concrete block), then the roof
Oldboy: There is only one way to stop rodents. With massive materials and without a single crack. Completely sealed in all directions. Building with modern house construction methods and mtrl is doomed to fail. A cat is nowhere near enough. About a dozen are needed, and preferably 1-2 females with kittens. Then you avoid problems with rodents, but instead, you have problems with cats...
prototypen: It's not a bigger anchor you need but a longer screw. Screws are available at Biltema, etc. The anchor must be for one or two gypsum boards. If there's plywood/OSB behind it, no anchor is needed. Protte
plåtrickard: Unclear if linking to Blocket is allowed, but many seem to be looking for parts. I want to tip about an ad on Blocket: 4 pcs garage handles, Car-in, Allhabo, Crawford https://www.blocket.se/annons/ostergotland/4_st_garagehantag_car_in_allhabo_crawford/110277107 Note it's not me who manufactures or sells.
Oldboy: They should manage, but they soften a bit from the moisture, so they may need more support than is required indoors in dry heat. If they stand loosely leaning against a wall, they may bend a little.
Skalman9: Hello, We are planning to replace the floor with parquet and are wondering if we should take any appropriate measures while we are renovating. The house is from 1968, existing wood floor and plastic in one room. According to the plans, we currently have slab on grade: Subsurface condition: Clay Foundation method: Solid concrete slab 1.5 tons/m². Basement floor: 12 cm concrete slab, 0.15 mm
Anonymiserad 358496: Contact a designer if you are unsure.
Stig-Helmer: It concerns the extension on the left (built on a crawl space). The idea is to either replace the entire joist or cast a slab.
Oldboy: Splice with a straight cut. Prime or paint with linseed oil paint on the end grain before assembly to ensure it lasts a decent amount of time.
Staffan565: This is how it turned out. It was just a few bricks that fled the gap between the frame and the ceiling.
topmount: In Fjällbacka, in the same type of environment above and below the water, I have used ordinary coarse concrete or cement (if you have access to gravel) with very good results.
Anonymiserad 587768: [citat] Thanks for the answers, everyone!
Viktor.J: [citat] You place the cardboard tube over it so you cast the rebar into the tube. When you cast, you attach the post shoes so they are cast in place.
Fredrik-: [citat] I can tip that Lidl is selling a decent contour gauge for 79kr this week. I've already cut out for 10 element pipes without it (in wood) but realized that for the last 4 cutouts in tiles it was a sensible investment, would have saved a lot of time if I'd bought it earlier 😩
Pelle_22: [citat] [/QUOTE] I have also tired of re-gluing the slate tiles on the stairs for the 5th year. I'm thinking of investing in epoxy - gravel/sand. Initially considered Duratrapp, but it is very expensive and seems to just use epoxy putty and gravel. An alternative could be PaintPro putty NM205 combined with their "Color Sand". Has anyone tried it?
jonaserik: You'll need to dig out so that there's at least 1 meter to the ceiling, preferably deeper. It always tends to be too tight no matter what you think. Then you'll see if water appears there or not. You build the roads with studs and about 10 - 15 insulation, foam. is good. Build the outer walls first and the inside later, easier. Then it depends on what you will have there. I would put a metal mesh
FredrikR: [citat] Perpendicular to the facade. ✅ The same applies for the 3-4-5 variant. Tying up a mason's line as mentioned and sighting against it is also convenient and easy to use.
Happifejz: @Småbrukaren Yes, the heat seems reasonable that it could have something to do with it. Hard to describe the smell, but it has the "weight" of freshly applied tar if that makes sense. But with a slightly sharper tone of the chemical perhaps. The house stood empty for 5 years before I bought it, with the last two years without heat. Directly under the smelly wall is the oil tank. Geothermal
jonaserik: If it's solid at the bottom, concrete slabs and wrapping a post at the bottom with asphalt paper are enough; otherwise a couple of plinths.
nova383: [citat] [bild] Updating this question a bit. This is how it looks. And how on earth do I deal with the post? I can't remove it, it will be replaced later with the stair post which is supposed to be slightly to the side. 30x60 tiles will be placed in a way that I can wait to install the tile where the post currently stands; I guess I'll place that tile once the stair with its stair post is back in
Fresten: I'm thinking about trying to renovate an old concrete staircase and I'm also considering closing the open part (see image) so that it becomes a completely plastered surface instead. What materials would you use? And anything special to consider here? The house is in northern Skåne.
Jagheterinteolof: Taking a chance at bringing this old thread to life.... I have exactly the same problem. What I'm a bit worried about is that the water runoff from the carport's metal roof gains enough speed to get under the tiles on the garage roof. But maybe that's nothing to worry about? How did your carport turn out then @Magnus33? Any pictures you want to share?
Workingclasshero: Building my deck now. The construction started 2 years ago, so now I'm replacing diagonal braces with a proper railing, and many screws have broken....... Biltema is a likely supplier, but I don't remember......... Klantskallejag bought more Biltemaskruv the other day, but in the future, it'll only be Esseve... /W
mickeforsberg: Hello everyone! I have a load-bearing wall in the hallway that I would like to remove. Currently, the posts are positioned so that the opening is about 1.2 m. This wall has already been supported by some kind of beam roughly 100x100, which extends along the entire wall that I've marked in red on the attached floor plan (not the one with the text description), all the way up to the bedroom at the
boxbygg: Hi, I'm planning to build a conservatory that is mostly insulated enough to sit outside in the fall. I was thinking of insulating the walls and floor with decking. I'm now wondering if you still need pressure-treated decking? The walls and roof will not be pressure-treated.
Timmermannen77: Weberfloor 140 Nova, I have sometimes used it to level floors. It can be applied 5-60mm thick, remember to use primer to increase adhesion to the substrate. 😃
z_bumbi: It determines how useful the product is/how much is needed for the same protection and therefore how cost-effective it is, so check it out.