15,154 views ·
21 replies
15k views
21 replies
Blind bottom for insulation.
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plan to build a simple shed/woodshed where a smaller part will be insulated to keep it frost-free.
It will be a pressure-treated floor frame 45x170 on pillars at ground level. How is the best way to build the subfloor for insulation? It has to be done from the top side.
Attach 45x45 at the lower edge of the floor joists and lay asfaboard?
It will be a pressure-treated floor frame 45x170 on pillars at ground level. How is the best way to build the subfloor for insulation? It has to be done from the top side.
Attach 45x45 at the lower edge of the floor joists and lay asfaboard?
Grundstött
· Halland
· 28 345 posts
Why not attach 28x120 on the underside of the floor joists? Surely you can still screw them in even if you're on top yourself?
I have negative experiences with asfaboard as a blind bottom; it tends to sag and hang down. Construction plywood is better if you don't want to use blindbottom boards.
However, if you follow your plan, then 45x45 is overkill. Strö/bärläkt 25x38 should be sufficient.
I have negative experiences with asfaboard as a blind bottom; it tends to sag and hang down. Construction plywood is better if you don't want to use blindbottom boards.
However, if you follow your plan, then 45x45 is overkill. Strö/bärläkt 25x38 should be sufficient.
Why nailed? Shouldn't be needed there...
There are good blindbottenskivor available for purchase. They just need to rest on a list. 22x95 from the underside is simple, otherwise 22x45 or 22x35 if you can find it. I think 25x25 unplaned was "standard" back in the day.....
Edit: second to comment... And 25x38 is probably the right dimension, I'm no longer an expert at the lumberyard
There are good blindbottenskivor available for purchase. They just need to rest on a list. 22x95 from the underside is simple, otherwise 22x45 or 22x35 if you can find it. I think 25x25 unplaned was "standard" back in the day.....
Edit: second to comment... And 25x38 is probably the right dimension, I'm no longer an expert at the lumberyard
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Drive with fiber cement subfloor panel, https://www.byggmax.se/skivmaterial/byggskivor/plywood-och-osb/trossbottenskiva-p07040 Alternatively, there are 6mm waxed or bor-treated subfloor panels. They look like masonite boards. Asfaboard as a solution is outdated and should not be used. Also check here: http://traguiden.se/konstruktion/konstruktionsexempel/bjalklag/ (Overkill with foam plastic for a storage room)
The subfloor board from bgrmax will be excellent, and then I can also use a thinner trim.
Pressure-treated - 2/3 of this shed is a wood storage, which during drying will not have any walls, so it feels good if the floor frame can withstand some water. Additionally, this will be built close to the ground, not 20 cm up, so during winter/spring, you can imagine it getting wet.
Pressure-treated - 2/3 of this shed is a wood storage, which during drying will not have any walls, so it feels good if the floor frame can withstand some water. Additionally, this will be built close to the ground, not 20 cm up, so during winter/spring, you can imagine it getting wet.
In Lidköping, they have 30 boards left, in Skåne there seems to be quite a few as well, but it's a shame that they are discontinuing that board, it seems like a good product otherwise.MathiasS said:
It's a bit far for me to travel.
You simply have to buy regular cement boards and cut them yourself. For example: http://www.beijerbygg.se/store/priv...serade-skivor/cembrit-ws-1200x2700-windstoppe
You simply have to buy regular cement boards and cut them yourself. For example: http://www.beijerbygg.se/store/priv...serade-skivor/cembrit-ws-1200x2700-windstoppe
It's a shame that Byggmax is discontinuing the cement boards. They are sold uncured and smell like lye, and are easy to break apart for fitting. After installation, they cure and become as hard as roof tiles. No bumps there. I don't know if it works the same way with other brands? Best regards, PerOF
Oh no, for my part I used a waxed blind bottom board, 6 mm thick. It works well for me in the countryside (climate zone 5) but I still think that a cement board is a better choice.
K-Rauta has that masonite board, https://www.k-rauta.se/byggvaruhus/trossbottenskiva-6x550x1200mm
K-Rauta has that masonite board, https://www.k-rauta.se/byggvaruhus/trossbottenskiva-6x550x1200mm
I thought that was an asfaboard but maybe it's masonite. I actually think it's all the same, or rather, for me it's all the same, but it does feel better to use the "right" things. This is about 4 square meters in a space that will only store shovels etc., so I really shouldn't bother to insulate it at all.
Asfaboard is much more porous - 12mm thick compared to Masonite's 6mm - and is suitable as wind protection in walls. As a bottom layer, it sags over time and is also unsuitable due to the high risk of mold growth.
Grundstött
· Halland
· 28 345 posts
No, don't slack off now, do it properly!MathiasS said:
Actually, you should probably have underfloor heating as well, and a towel warmer for the gloves
And don't forget the spotlights in the ceiling.
Asfaboard is too soft as a baseboard. It sags over time and risks eventually falling down completely.
If there is support underneath it, it could work, but then it starts to involve so many work steps and so much material that it kind of falls apart anyway.
Starry sky sounds good. Go for it.
The spades will also be happier at work then.
If there is support underneath it, it could work, but then it starts to involve so many work steps and so much material that it kind of falls apart anyway.
Starry sky sounds good. Go for it.
The spades will also be happier at work then.
