Help! The wall plate is loose, will the roof collapse???

[Matti_75]

Next time, set up temporary stamping on the inside before you tear down the wall to avoid having to align it again.

 

[Bananskalare]

Next time, you should put up temporary bracing on the inside before tearing down the wall, so you won't have to realign it later.

Most would guess that the facade isn't load-bearing. Even professionals might make the same mistake. It's not always the case that there are drawings or other documents showing the problem.

 

[Strontus]

Most would guess that the facade is not load-bearing. Even professionals would probably make the same mistake. It is not always the case that there are drawings or other documents that show the problem.

Sure, but now that TS knows about it, he can use that tip for other walls.

 

[Tinker_cat]

You're doing the same, right? Now you know how to do it.

Otherwise, I can only say: well done and valuable with feedback and pictures. Now the next happy remover of load-bearing panels can see how to do it.

Thanks, it turned out well in the end.

Either that, or like someone else in this thread did, replaced the old modules with reglar. However, that's not something I would try myself, if so, I would hire a company.

 

[Tinker_cat]

Next time, install temporary bracing on the inside before you tear down the wall to avoid having to align it again.

Inside where? It's the eave boards that sit on the panel, you can't access them from the inside the way the house is built.

It's probably sufficient to take it in small sections and support it from the outside.

 

[Tinker_cat]

Sure, but now that the OP knows about it, he can use that tip for the other walls.

Nope. It was the rafters that were on the panel, you can't reach them from the inside unless you plan to blow out most of the upper floor. But there are other tips in the thread.

 

[Matti_75]

If you support the ceiling on the inside just inside the outer wall, it cannot sink when you remove the panel.

 

[Matti_75]

Most would guess that the facade is not load-bearing. Even professionals would probably make the same mistake. There aren't always drawings or other documents showing the problem.

Yes, but this reply came after the original poster had already rebuilt the wall. If you read earlier replies in the thread, you can see suggestions for help during the process.

 

[Tinker_cat]

If you support against the ceiling on the inside just inside the outer wall, it can't sink when you remove the panel

I understand that you're trying to help, but please take it in when I say that it's not possible to do so based on the way the house is built.

The rafters and the wall have (had) no contact at all; you can support the wall or the ceiling as much as you want, it will not affect the rafters or prevent this from happening.

To access the rafters from the inside, you would have to demolish most of the interior of the upper floor.

As I wrote, everything can be supported from the outside.

 

[Matti_75]

I understand that you're trying to help, but realize when I say that it can't be done the way the house is built.

The rafters and the wall have (had) no contact at all, you can support the wall or the ceiling as much as you want, it won't affect the rafters or prevent this from happening.

To access the rafters from the inside, you would need to dismantle most of the interior of the upper floor.

As I wrote, everything can be supported from the outside.

You must understand that it's the lower frame of the truss you need to brace. The rafters are just at the outermost part of the truss and are the part you see. Read my first post in the thread and Google truss so you see what I mean.

 

[Tinker_cat]

You must understand that it is the bottom chord of the truss you need to brace. The rafters are only at the outermost part of the truss and are the part you see. Read my first post in the thread and Google truss so you see what I mean.

Your first post says, "The trusses stand on the top plate of the wall." And what I'm saying is, the trusses have no contact with the wall.

The floor joists to the upper floor lie on the wall, and the trusses go with support beams and braces down to the floor joists. As I said, the wall hasn't moved, nor have the floor joists. If you support inside against the ceiling, you're only supporting the joists that have always had support from the wall.

On the upper floor, there's no ceiling that far out, it's a small knee wall beneath which is an empty cavity where the only support after the brace has been the paneling. It's here that you need to support, and you can't reach it via any ceiling.

 

[Matti_75]

Your first post says "The trusses stand on the top plate in the wall." And that’s what I’m saying, the trusses have no contact with the wall.

The upper floor joists rest on the wall, and the trusses go with supports and diagonal braces down to the joists. As I said, the wall hasn’t moved, and neither have the joists. If you put support on the interior ceiling, you're just supporting the joists that have always been supported by the wall.

There's no interior ceiling so far out on the upper floor, there’s a small kneewall there under which is an empty cavity where the only support after the diagonal brace has been the paneling. It's here that you need to brace, and you can’t reach this through any interior ceiling.

Ok I give up, no point in explaining further.

 

[quick]

Ok I'm giving up, no point in explaining further.

Picture from post #30. How do you access to support the lower part of the roof from the inside? The piece that has sunk down is outside in the crawl space.