Building Materials and Construction Technology
myrstack: Imagine two scenarios. 1 that you do not encounter cavities, and then it's as usual with fastening according to your preference in the form of plugs, expansion fittings, or some kind of chemical product 2 that you encounter troublesome cavities, and then it's solved by either not drilling much further and using anchor compound (a bit of a gamble, but you often notice if you've just encountered a
HEM2121: [citat] I will check with the company Plyfa. Now you get to learn a lot that you didn't know before!
jonaserik: It's like with a pure timber house, raising everything, no windows and doors just a roof, standing and drying for 2 years and sinking maybe 10 cm on a one-story and 20 cm on a two-story.
Filip09: Hello! I'd like to get rid of our pump unit from the bathroom to avoid being startled by the sound every time. As an alternative to buying a new submersible pump and pressure tank, I'm thinking about placing the pump unit in the well instead, but there's one problem left. Making it watertight. It has held quite a bit of water at times. It consists of two rings, 60 cm high. The upper ring has
Mortsken: Possibly planning to mount two ship portholes on the inside of basement windows. The problem is that these are made of brass, so it looks a bit off with anything other than brass. But, where can one find brass screws that have a diameter of 13mm? They are quite heavy, so they really need to be secured properly. Or should I get brass paint and paint regular screws?
Johan.da: Hello I have removed the tiles from the entrance stairs because they were retaining water and it was damp in the basement. I plan to level the stairs with self-leveling compound and then apply Duratrapp. My question is if it will be sealed against moisture after this treatment or if I need additional measures?
Claes Sörmland: [citat] The easiest way is to mix powder with water. Take a disposable cup or a plastic container and stir with a stick. It's super easy!
mexitegel: The nearest plumber can bring home steel pipes in 6-meter lengths. Also available at rinkaby rör; https://www.rinkabyror.se/artikel/blaa-gangror-dn10-17-2x2-3mm-/
FredrikR: [citat] If you're using 15mm plyfa on both sides of the wall, noggings might not be needed. It will be stable anyway.
Rickard.: A tarp won't do, it needs to be at least +16°C.... No, but seriously, a pallet at the bottom is good, and I think you can throw something over it to keep most of the water away. However, I would restack them standing as they come when you buy them. I don't like the idea of the bottom tile having ≈100kg on it, another advantage is that snow and water that blows in just runs off. Brick may be a
AndersS: Before figuring out how to fasten the rail, I've managed to split many times with the Japanese saw 😉
LillaRackaren: Thanks for the encouragement everyone! I'll drop this semantic question and submit whenever I want!
eddiw: [citat] The stud against the wall, which was excessively high compared to the others, I lowered slightly by using a multitool. That stud was the most troublesome. For one stud, I attached a thin plywood piece to raise it a bit, and the third stud I planed with an electric planer. It turned out much better than before and there were no issues laying the floorboards after that. 😊 It didn't
Stefan1972: No, if it's difficult to change, it's probably easier to leave it and then just repaint. The other response is quite general about how some people view mold.......it should be removed at all costs because otherwise, it spreads, eats the house, and makes everyone sick within a 200 km radius. Almost worse than nuclear waste. It easily gets a bit exaggerated sometimes, and that in itself makes many
mattias1343: [citat] 140 kr per roll including shipping if you buy 10, here one such roll costs 450 kr. So they have a very good price.
Dilato: If you do as useless says, the ladder cannot slip away from the wall. Tie the base of the ladder to the pump. [bild]
Småbrukaren: Interesting, but it will probably last a few more years. It would also have been interesting to see what would have happened if the ändträ was protected by the "outer" boards, then it wouldn't have had to take as much rain.
Gunnar Gran: Cool! Please write when you hear more.
crazytok: [citat] No, it's a pool coping that will rest against the top edge of the pool. And it's silly to notch it out… 😂
AndreasT: Hello! I am planning to lay 30x60 tiles outdoors with Killto Floorfix DF and a hummer notched trowel and also plan to back-butter the tiles. I'm wondering if it's feasible to use a leveling system outdoors as well since 100% coverage is required, or if it's not suitable? /Andreas
Tobyk_75: Thank you, so plug vs hole same diameter. Plug vs screw, about half diameter? Does that also apply for plug 8 mm – screw 4 mm there?
BirgitS: Cannot comment on soundproofing. It is possible to avoid having plasterboard on the outer wall by using wide putty (roller putty) instead, except right at the radiator. In reality, an 11-year-old bathroom still has many years left before its lifespan is reached.
Missionshuset Roslagen: Hello! I'm in the process of reconstructing an older log house that was previously dismantled and transported to our property. The idea is that the house — which will be used as a guesthouse — will have two floors, i.e., a ground floor and an upper floor/loft with sleeping spaces. The house area measures about 6 x 4.8 meters, and I would like to build the upper floor without having visible
martinradbo: I am going to mount an antenna bracket on a building that has corrugated sheet metal like this. The metal is currently screwed into some kind of "metal stud" with screws according to picture no. 2. Additionally, shorter screws have been used at times to hold together the large sheets where there is no metal stud behind (picture 3). Unclear how thick the metal stud is, maybe just thin sheet metal
Mikipedia: Sounds appropriate to me at least. You can look at sheet metal battens for roofs, they have condensation holes to avoid the counter battens.
Levi_The_Great: [citat] [citat] Thanks for the response. You're absolutely right about the height difference, I didn't think of it that way, thanks. But... getting the angle via the link you sent was a bit more difficult. I don't know which measurements I should input 😏
-MH-: Is it cheaper to have it bent than to buy it ready-made? I assume it's not possible to get it in 6m lengths anyway?
boschkenta: [citat] Depends on how heavy, but it is mainly the glue that holds it together. I have successfully built record crates and boxes of that size with brads and glue.